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Old 01-12-2013, 08:27 PM #1639
TheePsycho
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Yeah mq2 valves your looking at about $250
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Old 01-12-2013, 09:06 PM #1640
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There are coated and uncoated javelins? I was planning on getting a javelin reano'ed for one of my ehms. What's the purpose of the coating?
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Old 01-13-2013, 08:59 AM #1641
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Ya, off the shelf Javelins were hard annod and teflon coated back in the day. IDK if they still are..

I know all about mq2 cost. But depending on milling costs there isn't much to a aedes. Just get the body milled to accept whatever frame you want. It doesn't really need a sleeve. I know I'd use one though, they look cool as hell .

Edit, Finding the merlin mq2 would be more of a P.I.T.A. than anything.
But that, milling, and having a bolt made (if your like me and couldn't make one) would be about all the cost. No hammer, valve, LPR, ETC.. Could use any frame and board you wanted. (I'm partial to the PM5 UL) and any VASA.
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Old 01-13-2013, 04:31 PM #1642
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Any of you thought about, looked/tried into doing a promaster or legend frame? They are not bad looking frames and seem to have plenty of room.
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Old 01-13-2013, 04:59 PM #1643
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I know the legend frame has already been done.
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Old 01-13-2013, 05:30 PM #1644
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Legend frame looks good IMO. But milling could change that...
O and I think I read that there is gonna be an OLED board pre order for the legend in the future... so that could be good.

I like the shape of the promaster and freestyle grip. with the hump.
IDK if there would be enough room in a promaster frame for the noid unless you could move the frame back a little. Then again I don't have one to mock up.. the promaster frame has that weird flat stop on the front though. It also mounts with 4 little screws around the corners of the frame as opposed to 2 down the center. How that would work out is beyond me without one to line up to my body.

That said, A freestyle frame might work, and look really nice depending on how the front ASA was done.

The real drawback on those 2 is the board selection.. You may be able to get other boards to work since you'd be using a mounted noid and that would leave room in the grip for a different board. Maybe mod a borg board like the one in the UL frame a few posts back. Or a universal board...
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:42 AM #1645
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Regarding the Aedes build idea, make no mistake, the bolt is incredibly difficult to get working and timed correctly. I've been actively working on one for two years, with Ty McNeer on MCB, Yoda here, and even spoken with Mike Quinn directly on it. There are some serious design issues with the bolt. In theory, it's a great design. In practice, as it's drawn up, there are some serious bolt survivability issues, and some very serious blowback issues. We've gone through 7 different bolt designs, and still haven't found a reliable one. We've been able to get a hopper or two through it without a massive number of chops, but to do it destroyed the mainspring. Otherwise, it's been the epitome of a blender. If you want to know what you'll run into in a build, PM me.
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Old 01-14-2013, 11:19 AM #1646
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The bolt is the part I thought would be the END of the build.. lol.
But if that was worked out? I mean, the DW prototype worked pretty well without eyes IIRC.

Your building the Brass Tube gun correct?
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:16 PM #1647
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Yeah, and it's been done with the exception of the bolt for a while. The blowback on it is crazy, and the survivability of the bolt springing is also a big issue. The way that it is designed basically puts a massive amount of energy into the bolt really quickly to move it, then stop it, then reset it. The problems that we saw were different depending on the bolt design. We tried something that was mag style, but the top tube really needs to be about 1" to get the volume and enough metal in the bolt to let it survive. With the smaller, .68-ish size uppper tube (actually slightly larger in mine), it literally would rip the SS/Aluminum/Delrin bolts in half. It did that literally in about 3 shots, although one of the stainless made it all the way to four. With the version we have now, based on Colin's design, the metal guide rod and the rear cap are both tool steel, just to keep them from eating themself, and doing it very, very quickly.

With the design Colin had, the single spring, it will work for a hopper or two. When you pull the back cap off and look at the bolt spring after that, you'll see that it's crushed. You'll also notice that the bolt won't reset correctly or consistently. To fight through that, we added a bumper spring made out of a Sheridan mainspring, which is really tough in terms of springing. Even that gets crushed after about a 1,000 rounds or so. It still seems to work as a buffer, but it's most likely going to need to be replaced pretty often. Currently, mine also has a 3rd spring on top the of buffer spring to get it to consistently reset. Even with the bumper spring and main spring, it needs a little help to fully reset in time for me to shoot of the next round. I also expect it to need replacement pretty often. Again, it's all because of the violence and force released at once from the MQ2. It's amazing to see what it can do to small parts. The three spring configuration seems like it's okay for me, but I'd never sell it to anyone else. Way too much monitoring and maintenance.

The other issue has involved getting it to not have it release air too early and send it straight up the front of the feedtube. Most first trigger pulls involve one ball flying down range, and another trying to take a bird flying above you out. The problem there is that you need a really, really good seal to not release any air too early, and yet loose enough to not destroy the o-rings involved. That's been the biggest problem with the so far, and what we're working on now.

The easiest answer to all this would probably make the top tube much larger, and then use a mini/axe/automag valve front and bolt. In which case, you just spent a ton of time and effort in to basically build a Mini. If Colin figured out a way to get the bolt around the blowback, durability, and destruction issues, I'd love to hear it. We've been tinkering with it for a while now trying to get passed them, and haven't quite been able to do so. The marker is amazingly fast and very, very light. I'd love to be able to use it consistently. But as it stands, we haven't been able to get it to get to a happy spot.
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:56 PM #1648
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Why use delrin at all? why not aluminum?

Could also just do a ram bolt or FASOR bolt.. but that is WAY over complicated IMO. unless you were going for closed bolt. That said, you could do a FASOR bolt and use one of those teeny little DP noids.

No matter what, when i look at the design for the aedes it seems like a really cool, over complicated DP dump valve..
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Old 01-14-2013, 07:53 PM #1649
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The aluminum and SS both tore in half too. We have a delrin bolt head on it with the current design because it currently isn't what's bearing the stress. Mag style bolts do, and can't take it. The SS and aluminum bolt head literally would tear apart and shoot out of the barrel, or tear and torque---getting stuck in the body. Again, it could be fixed with a larger diameter, but then you're moving to the full-on mag-sized upper tube.

On a separate note, I was the one who picked up Lufkin's Ehm. I got to use it all day Saturday, and Lufkin, you did an awesome job. That marker is amazing, and the ergonomics are awesome. It worked flawlessly all day, and had a lot let kick than I thought it would. Really, really impressed with it.
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Old 01-14-2013, 10:44 PM #1650
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The aluminum and SS both tore in half too. We have a delrin bolt head on it with the current design because it currently isn't what's bearing the stress. Mag style bolts do, and can't take it. The SS and aluminum bolt head literally would tear apart and shoot out of the barrel, or tear and torque---getting stuck in the body. Again, it could be fixed with a larger diameter, but then you're moving to the full-on mag-sized upper tube.

On a separate note, I was the one who picked up Lufkin's Ehm. I got to use it all day Saturday, and Lufkin, you did an awesome job. That marker is amazing, and the ergonomics are awesome. It worked flawlessly all day, and had a lot let kick than I thought it would. Really, really impressed with it.


You lucky bastard.
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Old 01-15-2013, 01:00 AM #1651
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I'm glad one got used in a game lol.
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Old 01-15-2013, 06:13 AM #1652
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I used mine at LLV last time I played with it.
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Old 01-15-2013, 07:06 AM #1653
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I used to use the prototype all of the time before i left it at the shop
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Old 01-15-2013, 11:19 AM #1654
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I used to use the prototype all of the time before i left it at the shop
? And Then?
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Old 01-15-2013, 01:39 PM #1655
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well everyone was saying that they used theirs...so i thought i would say i used mine
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Old 01-15-2013, 03:29 PM #1656
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"before I left it at the shop" Is what i was after lol

Do you not work there anymore? Was it stolen?

I was just lost on that part
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Old 01-15-2013, 07:50 PM #1657
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Nooo i still work there, when i can get down....I left it there because we used it for testing and protoyping etc
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Old 01-16-2013, 02:59 AM #1658
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well everyone was saying that they used theirs...so i thought i would say i used mine
Oh, me too, me too.
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Old 01-16-2013, 02:09 PM #1659
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Anybody have an ehm body there looking to trade?

I have a full NDZ prolite frame from a pmr

I'm hoping to trade for all the parts I need for an ehm so I can dump all my cash in milling and anno
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