Low pressure Spyder not recocking?

SilentBall55 · 01-08-2013, 08:39 AM

Just converted my old Sonix to low pressure and it will not recock.

The Sonix valve stem has a flat that appears to be used to flow air for recocking, but on my Fenix it has no flat. How does the Fenix recock without this flat? Do I drill another hole in the valve body for more air to flow to recock the bolt or slot the valve stem to increase air flow?

Opteron-O3 · 01-08-2013, 08:50 AM

Could you take a picture of the pin you currently have in your sonix?

What low pressure setup did you buy?
You might have to lower the pressure and keep raising the pressure until the marker recocks.

ferret15 · 01-10-2013, 03:12 PM

turn the pressure up on your reg.

SilentBall55 · 01-12-2013, 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ferret15

turn the pressure up on your reg.

I turned up the pressure and it is recocking, but that wasn't what I wanted.

I drill a small hole in the valve body to flow more air and now I can recock 50psi lower.

theblindchicken · 01-12-2013, 10:17 PM

Not sure if you've done this yet, but this will help lower your pressure by allowing a higher volume of air to pass through the Vertical Adapter/Front Block.

Also, check out Otter's Spyder Mods.

SilentBall55 · 01-13-2013, 12:55 AM

Did that mod on the ASA.

theblindchicken · 01-13-2013, 01:28 AM

Did you also drill out the front of the valve (hole sealed by the cupseal)?

Is your striker oring is good condition? It may help to oil the bolt and striker as well.

Your main striker spring isn't under a lot of tension, is it?

SilentBall55 · 01-13-2013, 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theblindchicken

Did you also drill out the front of the valve (hole sealed by the cupseal)?

Is your striker oring is good condition? It may help to oil the bolt and striker as well.

Your main striker spring isn't under a lot of tension, is it?

I drilled the back of the valve body where the striker end of the valve, not the white valve seal end.

This is an old Sonix that was still new in the box since 2007.

I already did all the drilling for air flow and changed out the valve spring to a lighter one. I have a reg on it also.

The gun is working fine now. Shoots very quiet compared to stock and a lot less kick.

ferret15 · 01-13-2013, 01:57 PM

wow, never heard anyone doing that before. Are you making 280fps and how many shots are you getting /tank (include size your using). I would expect that your pin is loose and might cause some damage to the valve seat, so watch for it.

theblindchicken · 01-13-2013, 06:59 PM

It sounds like when the striker may be hitting the valve pin, the valve doesn't move along the central axis, therefore the cup seal doesn't unseal the same amount around it's perimeter.

SilentBall55 · 01-13-2013, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ferret15

wow, never heard anyone doing that before. Are you making 280fps and how many shots are you getting /tank (include size your using). I would expect that your pin is loose and might cause some damage to the valve seat, so watch for it.

Nope, pin is not loose. This is a new 2006 or 2007 Sonix still new in the box.

I chrono it with reballs easily at 280fps, but testing the reballs at 260fps. I haven't counted the shots, but I am sure it is a lot better than before. It is so much quieter and the kick is minimal.

theblindchicken · 01-13-2013, 09:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilentBall55

Nope, pin is not loose. This is a new 2006 or 2007 Sonix still new in the box.

I chrono it with reballs easily at 280fps, but testing the reballs at 260fps. I haven't counted the shots, but I am sure it is a lot better than before. It is so much quieter and the kick is minimal.

If you're having troubles rechecking at 280fps, I believe the following may be causing the issue:

- striker spring has too much tension/too strong
- operating pressure is too low

I understand you're trying to achieve the lowest operating pressure possible. It may be worthwhile to look into a spring kit to soften up the striker spring and/or valve spring.

Also, you can do the LP Striker face mod (just grind away the striker face until it looks like a bunt cake pan). That may help your recocking issue too.

SilentBall55 · 01-13-2013, 11:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theblindchicken

If you're having troubles rechecking at 280fps, I believe the following may be causing the issue:

- striker spring has too much tension/too strong
- operating pressure is too low

I understand you're trying to achieve the lowest operating pressure possible. It may be worthwhile to look into a spring kit to soften up the striker spring and/or valve spring.

Also, you can do the LP Striker face mod (just grind away the striker face until it looks like a bunt cake pan). That may help your recocking issue too.

There is nothing wrong. It shoots fine at 280fps. I am shooting reballs at 260fps, because reballs shoot better at 260fps. I will put it back up to 280fps for paintballs.

theblindchicken · 01-13-2013, 11:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilentBall55

There is nothing wrong. It shoots fine at 280fps. I am shooting reballs at 260fps, because reballs shoot better at 260fps. I will put it back up to 280fps for paintballs.

Thought you were still having recocking issues. Didn't catch it in your earlier post. Good to hear that everything's cool. Just curious, what's your operating pressure at?

SilentBall55 · 01-14-2013, 01:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theblindchicken

Thought you were still having recocking issues. Didn't catch it in your earlier post. Good to hear that everything's cool. Just curious, what's your operating pressure at?

Sorry, don't have a gauge.

Besides, each LP Spyder conversion has a different operating pressure depending on how much flow it has and spring combination used.

All I know it works great.

I also own Autocockers and I tuned the Spyder the same way. Sweetspot the reg first with a chrono then fine adjust the fps with the velocity adjuster at the back of the gun. That is the best way to get the best efficiency out of the gun.

theblindchicken · 01-14-2013, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilentBall55

Sorry, don't have a gauge.

Besides, each LP Spyder conversion has a different operating pressure depending on how much flow it has and spring combination used.

All I know it works great.

I also own Autocockers and I tuned the Spyder the same way. Sweetspot the reg first with a chrono then fine adjust the fps with the velocity adjuster at the back of the gun. That is the best way to get the best efficiency out of the gun.

Ahh. Was just curious as to what you were running at to see if there was much of a difference between your LP and my LP Spump even though our modifications are most likely different.

SilentBall55 · 01-14-2013, 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theblindchicken

Ahh. Was just curious as to what you were running at to see if there was much of a difference between your LP and my LP Spump even though our modifications are most likely different.

I pretty sure that after drilling out all the areas that needs to be done, it flows the same air as any LP Spyder. The only difference between yours and mine is the springs that was used. My springs came from a junk box and not even Spyder. The valve spring could have come from a Bushmaster.

Your pump will have a lower operating pressure because it does not have to be jacked up the recock the bolt. My pump Autococker has a lower operating pressure than my mech and electronic Autococker.

theblindchicken · 01-14-2013, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilentBall55

I pretty sure that after drilling out all the areas that needs to be done, it flows the same air as any LP Spyder. The only difference between yours and mine is the springs that was used. My springs came from a junk box and not even Spyder. The valve spring could have come from a Bushmaster.

Your pump will have a lower operating pressure because it does not have to be jacked up the recock the bolt. My pump Autococker has a lower operating pressure than my mech and electronic Autococker.

True true, forgot about that factor about my pump. Yeah, I just ordered a spring kit for my pump, but still using the stock springs. I guess it would also depend on the bolt too, eh? Since I'm running with the Delrin Pilot ACS bolt.

Do you happen to know the specs for the autococker pump return springs? Looking for a light spring for my handle, but no hardware store around me has what I'm looking for.

SilentBall55 · 01-14-2013, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theblindchicken

True true, forgot about that factor about my pump. Yeah, I just ordered a spring kit for my pump, but still using the stock springs. I guess it would also depend on the bolt too, eh? Since I'm running with the Delrin Pilot ACS bolt.

Do you happen to know the specs for the autococker pump return springs? Looking for a light spring for my handle, but no hardware store around me has what I'm looking for.

As long as the bolt does not have any obstruction in its air passage, the flow are similar.

Check out CCM kits, got mine on ebay. They may sell the springs separately.