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Old 12-05-2012, 02:39 AM #22
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question... Did you also powder coat the inside of the body where the engine slides in?
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Old 12-05-2012, 03:42 AM #23
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question... Did you also powder coat the inside of the body where the engine slides in?
NO. Any Holes were corked to keep any powder from entering any vital areas. The Mil Thickness of powder coating is much thicker than hydro dipping or annodizing. careful attention is made to keep the powder away from any moving components.
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Old 12-05-2012, 11:13 AM #24
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Really clean work. The second set of pictures really show it .
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Old 12-05-2012, 11:56 AM #25
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question... Did you also powder coat the inside of the body where the engine slides in?
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NO. Any Holes were corked to keep any powder from entering any vital areas. The Mil Thickness of powder coating is much thicker than hydro dipping or annodizing. careful attention is made to keep the powder away from any moving components.
I'd imagine getting any inside would essentially destroy the body?
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:56 PM #26
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Powder is just ground up plastic. Some of the specialty powders do have some metals in them like the stardust. If some gets into an area it can be removed with chemicals. Like the barrels all the small holes at the end I install cork all the way down and on the ends to keep the bore clean. Fiberglass or aluminum tapes work good but they leave some residue.
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Old 12-06-2012, 02:04 PM #27
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Gotcha, thanks for the info, learn something new everyday!
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Old 12-07-2012, 12:53 PM #28
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another question, by the looks of it, how much MIL thickness do you think the powder coating added to your body?
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Old 12-07-2012, 07:02 PM #29
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another question, by the looks of it, how much MIL thickness do you think the powder coating added to your body?
Average for a hot applied. .0015" (Part heated then coated) This is how I done the SFT.

Cold applied .002-.003. Powder Applied then put in oven.
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Old 12-07-2012, 07:25 PM #30
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Huh, hot isn't much thicker than Type III.

Sounds like you knew what you were doing, and it looks great! Nice work.
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Old 12-07-2012, 07:56 PM #31
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Huh, hot isn't much thicker than Type III.

Sounds like you knew what you were doing, and it looks great! Nice work.
Thanks. Been doing powder coating for over 10 years. Mostly Motorcycle and Automotive stuff. Son plays competitively I just tinker with guns. Lol
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:59 PM #32
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Thanks. Been doing powder coating for over 10 years. Mostly Motorcycle and Automotive stuff. Son plays competitively I just tinker with guns. Lol
That's great. Your son gets the guns and you get to tinker with them. My dream right there.
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Old 12-08-2012, 04:14 PM #33
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Nice, I would change the bolt guide though. That dust black on everything else gloss just doesn't look right to me. ALso, that ASA... but love the powder coat job.
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Old 12-08-2012, 04:22 PM #34
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Nice, I would change the bolt guide though. That dust black on everything else gloss just doesn't look right to me. ALso, that ASA... but love the powder coat job.
Thank You for the observations. I have the Bloodline Revolver Guide that Id like to trade for a stock Black NXT Guide. Im currently dissassembling the ASA for powder. LOL

Here ya go. Better?


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Last edited by vesparider : 12-08-2012 at 05:28 PM.
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Old 12-08-2012, 08:46 PM #35
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1 million times better.
I may have a guide somewhere, I'll check for you and get back to you.

Edit...

Nope, no stock NXT guide. I have a stock SFT HE guide (SP logo'd) and I have a bloodlines pear guide in my tool box but no stock NXT.
Also found I still have a NDZ HE bolt and the ULP can for the stock body SFT in silver. Forgot all about that thing. LOL

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Old 12-08-2012, 10:06 PM #36
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I may end up ebaying the pear guide. $9.95 shipped. Waiting on some black fittings and some macro line to finish. Currently working on the NXT I just bought.
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Last edited by vesparider : 12-08-2012 at 10:14 PM.
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Old 01-27-2013, 04:43 PM #37
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