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Old 12-02-2012, 09:49 AM #64
Killa Daddy Of Two
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Hey AviatorMan,

I am new to the Denver area, I live in Arvada. If you don't mind, I would like to put my .02 in if I may. I have a very fast Black Heart boarded SP1 that shoots ROPES. I think total price paid was around $300. I have now used the marker for about 5 years. It has had literally 20 to 25 cases shot through it, and I have played all over the United States with it, traveling and playing Scenario ball. I used to shoot tippmanns and the heavy triggers are NOTHING close to what the Electros will do. (I had APE boarded A5s that shot up to 30 bps, and my SP1 literally outshoots it). I have another (backup/sons marker) SP1 right now, that is very gently used, will shoot CO2 and HPA, and is 100% in factory condition. It is used, my son had used it in 3 different days of paintball. I can certainly attest that it works fine, airs up fine, and shoots great. It has been looked at by the people at Velocity PB, in San Diego, and has a clean health record. $100 for the gun, buy a Blackheart board from GOG for $100 (you can find them cheaper) and this marker will outshoot just about anything SUB $200 that will still allow the use of CO2. If you need spare Parts GOG still has them, and they are totally interchangeable.

I do commend your purchase of the PE Etek. It is a great marker, and have nothing bad to say, other then alot of the PE markers are Noisy.

So, what style of play best describes you? What kind of paintball do you like the most? Are you more of a woods player? A Scenario type of player, or do you prefer Speedball/hyperball?

I hope to meet you at a field in CO.
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Old 12-02-2012, 03:10 PM #65
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Hey AviatorMan,

I am new to the Denver area, I live in Arvada. If you don't mind, I would like to put my .02 in if I may. I have a very fast Black Heart boarded SP1 that shoots ROPES. I think total price paid was around $300. I have now used the marker for about 5 years. It has had literally 20 to 25 cases shot through it, and I have played all over the United States with it, traveling and playing Scenario ball. I used to shoot tippmanns and the heavy triggers are NOTHING close to what the Electros will do. (I had APE boarded A5s that shot up to 30 bps, and my SP1 literally outshoots it). I have another (backup/sons marker) SP1 right now, that is very gently used, will shoot CO2 and HPA, and is 100% in factory condition. It is used, my son had used it in 3 different days of paintball. I can certainly attest that it works fine, airs up fine, and shoots great. It has been looked at by the people at Velocity PB, in San Diego, and has a clean health record. $100 for the gun, buy a Blackheart board from GOG for $100 (you can find them cheaper) and this marker will outshoot just about anything SUB $200 that will still allow the use of CO2. If you need spare Parts GOG still has them, and they are totally interchangeable.

I do commend your purchase of the PE Etek. It is a great marker, and have nothing bad to say, other then alot of the PE markers are Noisy.

So, what style of play best describes you? What kind of paintball do you like the most? Are you more of a woods player? A Scenario type of player, or do you prefer Speedball/hyperball?

I hope to meet you at a field in CO.
Back in the day, I was a full throttle aggressive player and probably the only reason I didn't end up trying to go the competitive route was my sudden departure from the game. That was a lot of years, and about 40lbs ago though (slowly shaving down that second part...) so now the best way to describe me is a scenario player. I could probably still play speedball / hyperball, but being out of shape means the bunker sprints leave me needing a few seconds to catch my breath, which can be enough to lose the game. That being said, I'm still fairly aggressive and tend to play point man (my general attitude is that if you're not getting hit, you're not trying hard enough), and I probably go through a case of paint a day compared to your 20-25 a year, even with my old Carbine. I've never played woods, but without a ton of extra air and paint, it seems like you'd be limited to a fairly short play time, though I guess you also won't be shooting 300-500 balls per round either.

I definitely agree that the Etek is a loud gun, and I'll probably buy a hush bolt for it when I get some extra money since that will also make it more air efficient. Considering the fact that I've never fired a paintball through it at all, my only complaint at this point is that it feels a little fragile, but I think that's something that applies to most of the guns that aren't Tippmanns because every one I've touched in this whole process has been the same story. The gun tech at the store where I bought it assured me that they really are "outside toys", so I'm guessing a lot of this feeling is going to evaporate after a few days of play.

Anyway, I hope to see you out there. Right now, me and some friends are planning on hitting Blitz this coming Sunday at about 11am, so if you can, come join us. PM me if you want, or just look for the guy with the brand-spanking-new black Etek 4 without an electric hopper (there can't be too many of us out there).
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Old 12-02-2012, 03:27 PM #66
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Better you went with the Etek than a metal-framed version of the Ego, then. The higher end of the family has had a nasty tendency to bend at the frame when played with too hard. I feel like the composite won't do that.
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Old 12-02-2012, 10:31 PM #67
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Old 12-03-2012, 01:38 AM #68
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Better you went with the Etek than a metal-framed version of the Ego, then. The higher end of the family has had a nasty tendency to bend at the frame when played with too hard. I feel like the composite won't do that.
I actually asked them about this during the 2 hours we were talking about the gun before I bought it. This is supposedly a safety feature a lot like the crumple zones on a car. There is a weak point designed into the grip frame and also the screws holding it to the main body of the gun. Its supposed to prevent a hard fall from 1) breaking your sternum, ribs, or collar bone, 2) breaking the regulator on the tank causing it to blow off dangerously, and 3) absorb damage into a cheaper and easier part of the gun to replace (the grip frame) than its main body which costs ~$400 at least. This is true for both the glass reinforced plastic and the aluminum frames. It makes sense when you think about it... Save the most expensive parts of the gun by sacrificing some less expensive parts. I guess the best option though is not to try and take core samples while running full speed with the gun.
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:46 AM #69
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Good choice, I think you'll have a lot of fun with it once you get the chance to play!
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Old 12-03-2012, 06:23 AM #70
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The composite frame just happens to be a lot cheaper to produce than an all metal frame. Coincidence?

I feel like PE wanted to lower production costs, so they came up with the "safety" explanation to justify using plastic (sorry, "glass injected nylon" ) instead of aluminium. Flame away, fanboys.

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Old 12-03-2012, 06:33 AM #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SNAKESNIPER View Post
The composite frame just happens to be a lot cheaper to produce than an all metal frame. Coincidence?

I feel like PE wanted to lower production costs, so they came up with the "safety" explanation to justify using plastic (sorry, "glass injected nylon" ) instead of aluminium. Flame away, fanboys.
They have made no such "safety explanation". Making up lies is pointless. Composite frames are cheaper and strong enough for paintball usage...period.
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Old 12-03-2012, 12:59 PM #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SNAKESNIPER View Post
The composite frame just happens to be a lot cheaper to produce than an all metal frame. Coincidence?

I feel like PE wanted to lower production costs, so they came up with the "safety" explanation to justify using plastic (sorry, "glass injected nylon" ) instead of aluminum. Flame away, fanboys.
I thought the metal cost more because it was more expensive to make. Then it looked to me like they added the part about only the metal frame being compatible with the emortal board just to make it more enticing. The other reason I thought there was a demand for the AM frame is it can be anodized.

Yeah the AM may be more durable but I thought the other two reasons were the big reasons you would go AM (emortal board, anodizing).
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Old 12-03-2012, 02:01 PM #73
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The composite frame just happens to be a lot cheaper to produce than an all metal frame. Coincidence?

I feel like PE wanted to lower production costs, so they came up with the "safety" explanation to justify using plastic (sorry, "glass injected nylon" ) instead of aluminium. Flame away, fanboys.
First of all, I'm not a fanboy... I've never ever fired this gun yet and I may hate it entirely. That being said, it seems a lot more logical from an engineering perspective that Planet Eclipse would design in such a feature than it does that they would just let the same design flaw persist into the next generation. Another thing to point out is that such consistent failure is usually a sign of purposeful engineering rather than random chance. Google image search for bent paintball frame or have a look at the few images here with bent frames here and you'll see that most bend in almost exactly the same way, including some other guns not manufactured by PE. To me, this says that either everyone who falls with their gun weighs exactly the same, falls exactly the same way, and under exactly the same conditions (a highly unlikely situation), or that the guns are designed to do that (much more likely).

Is the plastic cheaper? Of course it is... about $100 cheaper says my wallet, but that doesn't mean it is automatically worse. My experience in working with both outright plastics and composites has shown me that the right type of plastic, or the right formulation of composite can actually work better than an equivalent piece of metal. Composites are often actually stronger and more resilient than a piece of metal of similar weight and dimensions because of their ability to transfer loads across the supporting fibers and because they do not have the ability to stretch and then return to their original form or at least close to it. It may be this reason that the plastic LT frames aren't showing up with this complaint: They might be absorbing the impact and then returning to close to their original configuration without becoming unusable where the aluminum AM frames are not able to do that. I'm not saying that its better (or worse) in this case, but I think people should remember that properly engineered plastic parts can work just as well as metal ones and the fact that they are plastic doesn't automatically make them lower quality.

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Old 12-03-2012, 02:31 PM #74
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One thing to keep in mind is the stock barrel is way overbored for the size of paint these days. Its a high quality barrel but you may want to consider a different back.

You can find them here.
http://violentseries.com/planeteclip...ck685bore.aspx

They make a couple different backs. I wanted a barrel that matched my marker in storm tropper so I was looking at getting one of these but ended up paying for a barrel kit from Smartparts/GOG. I went with the freak kit just because it matched my marker. If you dont care about color or have a standard color you will have alot more choices.

Just something to think about if you dont like the stock barrel. FWIW I think a barrel is the only upgrade thats really going to make a difference.
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Old 12-03-2012, 02:50 PM #75
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It was conveniently publicized after SEVERAL frames had bent or broken in quick succession over one weekend last year (if memory serves) that the thin frames were a "safety feature" or "crumple zone". I say convenient because it had already been happening for about 2 years before they decided to say something about it. Call me skeptical.

That said, I'm told that they'll offer to replace EITHER the frame OR the board in a catastrophic failure, but not both. I've never broken one to find out personally.

I've heard good things about the Hush bolts for other guns, but I can't say I whether would invest in one for the Etek. A barrel kit would be a more effective option for performance overall with that platform, along with (possibly) re-tuning it.
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Old 12-03-2012, 02:52 PM #76
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One thing to keep in mind is the stock barrel is way overbored for the size of paint these days. Its a high quality barrel but you may want to consider a different back.

You can find them here.
http://violentseries.com/planeteclip...ck685bore.aspx

They make a couple different backs. I wanted a barrel that matched my marker in storm tropper so I was looking at getting one of these but ended up paying for a barrel kit from Smartparts/GOG. I went with the freak kit just because it matched my marker. If you dont care about color or have a standard color you will have alot more choices.

Just something to think about if you dont like the stock barrel. FWIW I think a barrel is the only upgrade thats really going to make a difference.
Isn't most paint best shot out of a .689? Also, I gotta say that the chances I'm going to buy a bore kit are pretty low. I might buy a single upgrade barrel, but it probably going to be a lowest common denominator size, so it would probably be .689 again anyway unless that's no longer the lowest common denominator.
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Old 12-03-2012, 02:56 PM #77
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.689 is HUGE these days. Paint shrank starting about 5 years ago, and is regularly between .679 and .682 these days. I've used .670 more than a few times with varying grades of paint over the last 3 years alone. Research into the relationship between barrel and ball has jumped in the last 5 years as well, and companies are catching up.

Your .689 will work, but don't expect consistent high performance from it.
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:06 PM #78
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It was conveniently publicized after SEVERAL frames had bent or broken in quick succession over one weekend last year (if memory serves) that the thin frames were a "safety feature" or "crumple zone". I say convenient because it had already been happening for about 2 years before they decided to say something about it. Call me skeptical.

That said, I'm told that they'll offer to replace EITHER the frame OR the board in a catastrophic failure, but not both. I've never broken one to find out personally.

I've heard good things about the Hush bolts for other guns, but I can't say I whether would invest in one for the Etek. A barrel kit would be a more effective option for performance overall with that platform, along with (possibly) re-tuning it.
~$40 for quieter and more air efficient performance seems like a good trade off for me. As for the barrel kit, I doubt I'm going to be spending $150+ on a kit and then needing to juggle backs to find the right one for each day I go out. Don't forget, I'm not competitive and probably am going to play twice a month at best, so I'm going to value the simplicity of a single barrel upgrade over the dial-it-in performance of a kit.

As for the PE replacement policy, that's part of the warranty only. During the 12 months of the warranty, they will replace the single most expensive part for free, so I'm guessing the board would cost more than my frame, but if I had an AM, the frame might cost more than the board. After the warranty is up, I'm on my own if I take a dive. That all being said, I'd still rather bend a frame and/or replace a board than have to spend ~$400 on a new body, at which point I'd probably just buy a new gun.
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:08 PM #79
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Isn't most paint best shot out of a .689? Also, I gotta say that the chances I'm going to buy a bore kit are pretty low. I might buy a single upgrade barrel, but it probably going to be a lowest common denominator size, so it would probably be .689 again anyway unless that's no longer the lowest common denominator.
No .689 is not standard anymore. Like Castro said paint is much smaller closer to .680. The Etek 3 barrel is a whopping .693" which is huge.

Good news is you don't need to buy a bore kit or even a barrel. You can just get a back and use the front that comes with your gun. You have to buy a back that will fit a Shaft2, Shaft3 and SL barrel. Also if your marker already has a black back you can keep the front which matches your marker.

I have been looking and the only backs I found for the Shaft 3 were here.
http://violentseries.com/planeteclip...ck685bore.aspx
You can find these on ebay also sometimes. If you wanted to overbore the .685 would be OK. They also make a .681 back. Make sure you get the Shaft 3 and not the Shaft 4.

Also FWIW you can find new boards fairly cheap on ebay so replacing one wouldnt be bad.
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:38 PM #80
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No .689 is not standard anymore. Like Castro said paint is much smaller closer to .680. The Etek 3 barrel is a whopping .693" which is huge.

Good news is you don't need to buy a bore kit or even a barrel. You can just get a back and use the front that comes with your gun. You have to buy a back that will fit a Shaft2, Shaft3 and SL barrel. Also if your marker already has a black back you can keep the front which matches your marker.

I have been looking and the only backs I found for the Shaft 3 were here.
http://violentseries.com/planeteclip...ck685bore.aspx
You can find these on ebay also sometimes. If you wanted to overbore the .685 would be OK. They also make a .681 back. Make sure you get the Shaft 3 and not the Shaft 4.

Also FWIW you can find new boards fairly cheap on ebay so replacing one wouldnt be bad.
Something tells me that enough paint is still larger than .680 to make a .693 barrel worth shipping as stock on a gun. I guess I will probably end up with at least a few backs sadly, but at least the case that came with my gun has cutouts for 3-4 extras. I just don't like the idea of 1) having barrel parts laying around (to me that equals money just laying around) that I only use sometimes because paint varies in size, and 2) needing to try and figure out each day which back I need to use because paint manufacturers can't manage to properly size their product.
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Old 12-03-2012, 04:09 PM #81
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There's 2 schools of thought for the barrel size...underbore and overbore. I leave the google-fu to you to look up and decide what you like...but I will point out that the .689 is a pretty decent overbore barrel. If you fall into the overbore camp, you likely don't need any other backs.
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Old 12-03-2012, 04:14 PM #82
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Plenty of people get away with over-boring, but the smart man's money is always in barrel options and quality paint because he doesn't have to shoot as much. Occasionally, the barrel options make up for having sub-par paint.
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Old 12-03-2012, 05:23 PM #83
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Early in my research, but this guy says that bore has nothing to do with accuracy and mostly controls efficiency and consistency. If that is really the case and I'm primarily looking for accuracy, then I can put off going for a better barrel for a while until I feel like I really need it.

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Old 12-03-2012, 05:31 PM #84
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Consistency=precision. Precision is the closest thing we have to accuracy in paintball given the characteristics of our projectiles. I encourage your research, but I can assure you I've been through it all, and am just trying to help. I'm a moderator for more reasons than simply having a cute butt.
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