Battery fully charged, can/backcap/bolt orings changed, settings reset to factory, stock bolt, lubed sparingly, manifold screw flush, no leaks, barrel removed, firing mode = semi uncapped (if it matters).
Makes a puffing noise as if getting bolt stick when I pull the trigger, and it does not fully cycle. It's almost like as if it was in training mode, but the bolt doesnt even move. When I manually push the little white button on the solenoid, the bolt cycles and shoots awesome.
Is the part of the solenoid that is controlled by the electronics for some reason not actuating the part of the solenoid that controls the reciprocation of the bolt properly?
Is the board not providing enough "juice" to power the solenoid?
I do think you might be correct. The board is before the noid and your bypassing the board and it works. Check your noids connections to the board and to the noid. The noids power comes from the battery and that battery is plugged into your board. So it has good battery flow if it cycles when the white button is pushed. But at some point it's loosing it's power. Might need a new board...
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you said you have changed the orings, so i'm assuming you have them fitted, not just dropping in new ones. see pooty's vids in his sig if you are confused on properly fitting orings.
is your feathertouch screw in? taking it out can help quite a bit with fsdo
Put your tank on the gun and turn it on and turn the knob to gas AND degas it until it starts to shoot. What I mean is slowly turn in till its fully gassed and then out turn it's degassed all while pulling the trigger.
Put your tank on the gun and turn it on and turn the knob to gas AND degas it until it starts to shoot. What I mean is slowly turn in till its fully gassed and then out turn it's degassed all while pulling the trigger.
^^^ lol no its not, i have this same problem and if u gas it up, degas, and gas it up again while shooting it will put enough pressure on the bolt and will get it to cycle. i guess the same thing happened with shockers
I think what Evac was pointing out, was that it was not a "FIX" to his issue. But simply a band aid.
Two orings that can cause that issue (not making good seal = loose) the rear lift cap inner oring (017) and the bolt sail oring (016).
Please watch Pooty51's oring fitting video's and make sure you soap up the parts (clean and dry well) so that they have no grease on them. Then go through the process of finding the best fitting orings. I promise this will help you.
I used to have the same issue, and I would have to walk the trigger while gassing it up to be able to shoot. But it wasn't the answer to a working $1500 marker. I went through every single oring per Pooty51's vids and finally found a great fitting set and now I'm golden! I will never change an Oring unless it leaks from here onward.
Anyway - just trying to help!
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Last edited by OLD_B4LL3R : 07-11-2011 at 11:16 AM.
ohh, i gotcha, i thought he ment it was a dumb idea as in it wouldnt work. and ya it is just a temporay fix cuz u will have to do it the next time u go to use it
I am having the same issue as well. However, if I shoot semi at a slow rate it fires, it isnt until I shoot faster does it start to puff and push the back cap up alittle bit. . I have changed alot of the o rings but still getting the same issue. I was looking for pootys videos but I couldnt find them
Just wondering if you had the problem solved I have the same problem I tried a new ref a new bolt with fitted orings took it to two different paintball shops and nothing
I am having the same issue as well. However, if I shoot semi at a slow rate it fires, it isnt until I shoot faster does it start to puff and push the back cap up alittle bit. . I have changed alot of the o rings but still getting the same issue. I was looking for pootys videos but I couldnt find them
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