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Old 11-26-2012, 04:39 AM #22
smokefools66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crowntheking View Post
Most likely...

If not replace reg seat oring
Alright will do, thanks again for the help. I have close to a case left so I think I might go play again next weekend. If that didn't help, I'm going to do a full tear down by: checking the LPR internals, greasing the spool shaft in the solenoid, and check the Q.E.V.'s. On a side note, when I was testing in my backyard after changing out the velocity adjuster o-rings ( which stopped the purge hole leak, thanks crowntheking!) I was able to one ball down around the last 200 PSI in my tank before it started to drop! Honestly this isn't a huge issue since it still works, but I would just like the best efficiency out of my Dark because my field's tanks usually only fill to 3000 PSI.. Even after this is fixed I'm still pretty set on getting my C3+ POOTY MOD'D, hell even PE did it on the D.A.R.T. Kit with the exception of using floating o-rings.

Last edited by smokefools66 : 11-26-2012 at 04:41 AM.
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Old 11-26-2012, 01:03 PM #23
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Not sure if this was mentioned, but when I received my SL3 reg (med pressure), I had to remove the macro line fitting and remove the white control valve since i was putting it on an Ego. Good Luck.
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Old 11-26-2012, 01:30 PM #24
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Good looking out 2K. I almost forgot about that piece.
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Old 11-26-2012, 03:02 PM #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PXK24 View Post
Not sure if this was mentioned, but when I received my SL3 reg (med pressure), I had to remove the macro line fitting and remove the white control valve since i was putting it on an Ego. Good Luck.
Ok thanks! Do you think that will really effect my velocity by it being in there? I saw someone said they left theirs in their Ego10 and he said works fine.

I appreciate everyone's help by the way, I'm pretty sure you guys helped me fix my problem, but I won't know for sure until I get it over the chrono again.

I know this is off-topic, but earlier in the thread I asked about the POOTY mod, and gndmepyon said it would cause more drag and increase breech wear also. My Dark already has a decent amount of breech wear as it is so I don't know if that would effect the tolerances or cause any unwanted problems? PE just came out with the D.A.R.T. Kit that has the inlet sealing ORINGS so I would assume it can't be that bad or PE wouldn't have added it, although they use floating orings. I want to make my 06 Dark as efficient as possible so I think it would be a good choice, if any POOTY MOD'D cure users could chime in on this would be greatly appreciated. Also somewhat related someone once pointed out to me that my C3+ when in the forward position leaves the rammer housing exposed more than my Cure1 does. So I'm not sure if it would be more efficient to mod the C1 or the C3+, or if it even makes a difference which one I use.

Last edited by smokefools66 : 11-26-2012 at 04:37 PM.
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Old 11-26-2012, 05:54 PM #26
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In my experience it makes the marker louder. (the exposed rammer housing with the smaller bolts)
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Old 11-26-2012, 06:18 PM #27
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Ya you may have been the one that told me on here, I don't mind the noise so much, but I was curious if it effected anything else. I do love the C3+ though, I played on Saturday with my 06 Dark, C3+, .681 Shaft4 back and shooting Valken redemption paint with not one break all day. May I note that it went from 40 to 60 degrees during the day and the paint broke from head height (6').
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Old 11-26-2012, 06:41 PM #28
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^Cure3+ in forward firing position^


^Cure1 in forward firing position^


^comparison of length, note the C3+ is shorter but the front of the bolt protrudes farther forward to help with roll back.


Comparison of inlet positioning.

I want to switch between the two Cure bolts when I play next time and see if there is any difference over the chrono and in sound signature. I just wish I had a second bolt pin so I didn't have to switch it out to do so..

Last edited by smokefools66 : 11-26-2012 at 06:46 PM.
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Old 11-27-2012, 04:45 PM #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokefools66 View Post
Also I forgot to add, that there was air coming out of the side hole on the SL3 while shooting. Is that normal?


This is where your efficiency was going...

I am going to reply to your email. When you get it...make sure you give me your details so I can send you the Brass adjuster top.

Other than that...make sure you are using a good battery...and put a 14X2NBR70 on the Piston in the reg. Leave your Dwell at stock...set the LPR to Flush...and then try it all out together.

emailing you now...
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:34 AM #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p8ntshoota View Post
This is where your efficiency was going...

I am going to reply to your email. When you get it...make sure you give me your details so I can send you the Brass adjuster top.

Other than that...make sure you are using a good battery...and put a 14X2NBR70 on the Piston in the reg. Leave your Dwell at stock...set the LPR to Flush...and then try it all out together.

emailing you now...
Thanks Gerry! I replaced the adjuster orings and that stopped the leak. I checked and my adjuster top is not brass, I emailed you back and included a picture of my adjuster top. I only use brand name batteries such as Energy Paintball, Energizer, or Duracell and my dwell is above stock and LPR is flush, so that shouldn't be it. I believe my problem is resolved once I get the brass adjuster top and remove the PCV from my macro fitting, but I won't know for sure until I get it over the chrono. Thanks again for everyone's help!
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