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Old 11-19-2012, 06:25 PM #1
jessekeels
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Dragun Revival and revamp

Hello all, I have a Dragun the one. It is a Spyder clone that has a timmy kit. It was almost like Dragun tried to make a Spimmy conversion kit. These markers are very similar to an Intimidator but with one problem... all the parts are garbage. my particular marker has a stripped out front block/lpr. I was wondering if Intimidator ram sleeves are compatible with dragun ram sleeves, and if not what steps need to be taken to make them compatible. The hose system goes from the solenoid to the LPR externally and an Intimidator front block has the hose internally. Does anyone know how I could rig a hose system so that I could just slide in a timmy front block and lpr? I know of a few users who have done it but i have not seen any how to's. Here are a few pics of my marker to show you what kind of system it has.





MODS: If this is too close to a "what is my marker compatable with thread" please forgive me but i have tried to post on the dragun forum about a different problem and it is DEAD DEAD DEAD!!!!

I also plan to turn this into my build thread when these things come to fruition .
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:47 PM #2
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Also if anyone knows of a forum that would be more appropriate or knows of any links that would help please let me know.
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:58 PM #3
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It's not quite like a Timmy.

The hammer is blow forward and spring return on the t-1's where a Timmy used air to move the hammer/bolt in both directions.

The front block from a Timmy however should fit right on and work well. You'll need a 2k2 front block or you'd have to drill and tap the body to use an alias style.

The t-1 I believe has the same internal dimensions as a spyder and therefor, a Timmy. In which case you could remove the stock valve assembly and hammer etc, in favor of the Timmy components. You can just look up "spimmy" conversions for that write up.

The t-1 function a lot more like a Bushmaster bko and spyder em-1
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:14 PM #4
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Hey ol friend you almost bought this gun. so would a Timmy frame, board, noid wiring work with a stock t-1 top half and a stock dragun t1 frame/ noid/ board work with dragun internals? Please explain why and/or provide links to explain. Thanks so much for your input.
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:26 PM #5
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Ohhhh, I thought that looked familiar haha, always wanted to put a t-1 kit into an AMG :-P

So, I'm not sure I fully understand your question but the Timmy noid, Frame, and board, would technically work with the stock t-1 top half however, the air the Timmy setup normally uses to recock a stock Timmy would just vent. Since the t-1 recocks via spring tension in front of the hammer
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:37 PM #6
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My goals are a new reg. front block, lpr, and a 2k2 clamshell frame. (This is not a wtb thread so of u have offers take it to PM). The reg, lpr, and front block will make my marker at least functional. But im weary about the stock T1 hose system and 2k2 front block/LPR compatability.
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:43 PM #7
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As long as you get a 2k2 front block and lpr it will work splendid, the worst case scenario is you have to file a little bit of the stock frame where the hose barb is on the front block, that is if using the stock frame. The clamshell should work iirc but check out some spimmy builds in the spyder forums to be sure they didn't drill any extra holes etc to make it work
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:45 PM #8
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I looked at the diagrams of how each of those markers work and I understand the difference between the two systems. From what I understand it is a small matter of drilling and tapping the body to change the actuation system . Am I too far off here?
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:52 PM #9
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I guess it depends on what you would like to do

if you want to use the timmy ram sleeve, poppet, ram, and bolt. then you would aslo need the timmy noid and board. AND possible modify the bottom of the dragun body where you need to insert the hose barbs to the timmy ram sleeve.

If you want to keep internals of the T-1, I suggest just using the 2k2 timmy front block + lpr, and Frame if necessary but keeping the internals of the t-1 and electronics for the t-1
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Old 11-19-2012, 10:02 PM #10
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We came to the same conclusion man. Stand by for updates on marker. Thanks for your help lpmaster. I'm going to make you sorry you never bought this thing
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Old 11-23-2012, 10:57 AM #11
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2k2 Timmy front block,lpr and reg ordered. Clammy frame feedneck and trigger soon to come. Ill post pics when I get it put together
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Old 11-23-2012, 11:00 AM #12
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Nice man, I would say document it in the older markers/dragun forum but I don't think anyone would see it haha
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Old 11-23-2012, 11:06 AM #13
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Haha yeah those are my thoughts exactly. Once I get the frame and feedneck setup ill see if I want to upgrade board/noid. Trying to build something that the kids at the paintball field have never seen lol.
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Old 11-27-2012, 04:15 PM #14
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ive done a lot of research in the past few days and from what it looks like timmys and t1's use the same noid? so would it be possible to use a timmy board with a t-1 noid? someone correct me if i'm wrong. the reason i ask these questions is because my plan is to gradually build a timmy all the while having a working marker (the dragun body). so far i have ordered a calmshell, trigger, lpr, front block, asa and feedneck. i'll post pics when i get them installed, or i'll post with the problems i have with it (most likely the latter).
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Old 11-27-2012, 04:26 PM #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jessekeels View Post
ive done a lot of research in the past few days and from what it looks like timmys and t1's use the same noid? so would it be possible to use a timmy board with a t-1 noid? someone correct me if i'm wrong. the reason i ask these questions is because my plan is to gradually build a timmy all the while having a working marker (the dragun body). so far i have ordered a calmshell, trigger, lpr, front block, asa and feedneck. i'll post pics when i get them installed, or i'll post with the problems i have with it (most likely the latter).
hmm, I doubt the solenoids are the same unless you can for sure confirm otherwise, take a pic of the noid and i can tell youf or sure. The reason I doubt they are is the Timmy solenoid needs to supply air in both directions where as the T-1 solenoid only needs to supply air in the forward direction.
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Old 11-27-2012, 04:37 PM #16
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i would agree with you but as you will see in these pics there is clearly two ports for barbs to be placed.



two ports
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Old 11-27-2012, 04:43 PM #17
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hmm, it's actually a lot closer than I thought,

the timmy is HEA10F5 though and I believe operates SLIGHTLY different
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Old 11-27-2012, 06:13 PM #18
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Is a timmy noid the same as a pimps noid
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Old 12-15-2012, 04:08 PM #19
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Slap a qev on the ram, it'll be able to cycle stupid fast.
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Old 12-18-2012, 03:23 AM #20
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I'm pretty sure you can't spimmy that body. If I'm correct it's a fatty striker bottom tube
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Old 12-18-2012, 08:03 AM #21
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If by spimmy you mean install a lower ram sleeve, then yes it is possible. i have seen it done in the dragun forums. i dont intend to... i have since scrapped this project and just built a timmy. took me about a month and 200 but i have a really nice ninja AIM body
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