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Old 11-15-2012, 07:49 PM #1
i8somepie
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Unhappy Spec-R TechT HE Engine shootdown

Hey guys.

I just got my HE engine in today and I'm getting some issues.

I checked my stock bolt over the chrono and it was shooting around 290.
Dropped the TechT engine in and chrono I was hitting 350-360.
I back the gun down to under 300 and issues start.

I can't get the marker to shoot more than 4 or 5 shots, then it drops off.

I've checked my pressure and anything under 180 psi just chokes my marker off and it won't cycle. It'll cycle kind of fine above that but won't cycle 100% until around 200 psi and it won't chrono under 320.

My dwell is at 12; I've bumped it up and down but no luck.

I've used GunSav and Molykote 33.

I've tried 3 batteries and I'm going to pick up some fresh ones after work but I'm perplexed.

Edit: swapped to my CCM reg, same issue. cycles reliably at ~200 psi.
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:52 PM #2
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how much did you bump down? mine is shooting fine at 8 dwell.

Edit:

i hope that you are not using a LP tank and using a HP macroline. also try to increase bolt return delay.

Last edited by xmc1146 : 11-15-2012 at 07:58 PM.
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Old 11-15-2012, 08:50 PM #3
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I was having the same problem with my G4. Went from shooting 280 to 350 with the new bolt. But when I backed the pressure down to shoot 280 again, I was getting bolt stick. I increased the pressure and dwell until it was shooting reliably. Now I've been backing it down and it seems it's still shooting reliably as the bolt is getting broken in.
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:15 PM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xmc1146 View Post
how much did you bump down? mine is shooting fine at 8 dwell.

Edit:

i hope that you are not using a LP tank and using a HP macroline. also try to increase bolt return delay.
I've used both a HP Tank and LP tank. I have LP macro line on now with my LP tank.

I would increase the bolt delay but I only have the stock board

Quote:
Originally Posted by jackblack73 View Post
I was having the same problem with my G4. Went from shooting 280 to 350 with the new bolt. But when I backed the pressure down to shoot 280 again, I was getting bolt stick. I increased the pressure and dwell until it was shooting reliably. Now I've been backing it down and it seems it's still shooting reliably as the bolt is getting broken in.
Mine is sticking now, but it was sitting in the back of my cold car for about half and hour since I stopped to get some new batteries and some food and drove home.

I put a couple thousand cycles on it and it is still an issue..

It wasn't just sticking though for me, it would shoot but then sputter down until it wouldn't cycle. I don't feel it would be my tanks either...
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:39 PM #5
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try relubing your solenoid. since its probably not the reg the only other problem it can be is the solenoid
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:50 PM #6
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Quote:
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try relubing your solenoid. since its probably not the reg the only other problem it can be is the solenoid
Tried that as well.
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:58 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i8somepie View Post
Tried that as well.
did you try reseting your board settings?
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:31 PM #8
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How well does the new HE bolthead tail slide through the boltstop o-ring? Maybe just too much excessive friction?
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:37 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CA_Tectonics View Post
How well does the new HE bolthead tail slide through the boltstop o-ring? Maybe just too much excessive friction?
This also maybe try replacing the 2 rear internal orings
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:41 PM #10
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Yep. The concept is that it is possible that the HE bolthead is slightly larger in diameter (front half, tail half, or both) for some reason and you are getting too much drag and the lower psi isn't enough to overcome the additional drag. This would also explain why it seems to work o.k. at higher psi.

Of course, this route is just one possibility. Still possible that it is a noid issue or it is being starved of air somewhere in the system.
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:46 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CA_Tectonics View Post
Yep. The concept is that it is possible that the HE bolthead is slightly larger in diameter (front half, tail half, or both) for some reason and you are getting too much drag and the lower psi isn't enough to overcome the additional drag. This would also explain why it seems to work o.k. at higher psi.

Of course, this route is just one possibility. Still possible that it is a noid issue or it is being starved of air somewhere in the system.
oh and also make sure the little bumper is in front of the oring on the bolt head. my friends techt bolt was giving him issues because of that.
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Old 11-16-2012, 10:15 AM #12
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i think the ID of the line is bigger on the lp hose. thinner "walls" allowing more flow but at a lower pressure. HP line would have a thicker wall but smaller ID allowing less flow but runs at a much higher pressure (550-850psi)

i never bother swapping to LP hose... Not sure whats on the vice but it has no issues with hp or lp tanks. same with my indy and marq. all three run 200-220psi on the hpr. 180psi is not much to ask for.



Im curious if the stock bolt functions correctly at 180psi (or whatever pressure the HE engine is commanding to get your desired fps)


If something is not getting enough pressure at 180psi then its not a bolt issue. if the stock bolt runs at 180psi (obviously it will not be shooting your crono speed but at least it works) it will mean the HE engine has something goofy going on.
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Old 11-16-2012, 11:10 AM #13
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i8somepie, with bolt lubed and backcap off/ no barrel, try moving bolt back and forth with your fingers. If it's to tight (rear bolt oring to big) it will be harder to move than it should be,it should move with almost no resistance at all. Some g series gun breaches seem to vary a bit.On all of my 2 sons and my g series guns I've turned down back of bolt some to allow use of smaller oring. I don't know what size the orings I use are as I got them in a ring kit and they work.With my youngest sons g3 I have to use dow55 on his oring, If I don't it will leak. See post on rkenders bolt mod,I think turned rear bolt demensions are there.

Last edited by van457 : 11-16-2012 at 02:30 PM.
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Old 11-16-2012, 11:26 AM #14
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i8somepie, just checked rkenders bolt mod thread. See page 2 #27. Bolt head dimensions on my g4 bolt head are .746 (turned down)for use of smaller oring. if your bolt head is to tight:remove oring- wrap masking tape 3-4 times around bolt stem-HAND tighten stem in drill press-using a fine file AND EYE PROTECTION turn bolt and file excess metal-stop drill press and check often- take your time don't take to much off-use fine steel wool with bolt spinning in drill press to polish up metal area you removed. This requires a mrcometer or similar to measure. If you need a smaller bolt oring PM me and I'll send a couple orings that I use to you.
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Old 11-16-2012, 11:30 AM #15
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Quote:
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Sorry to intrude...but WTF is lp or hp macroline? What's the difference....
Quote:
Originally Posted by firefoxx04 View Post
i think the ID of the line is bigger on the lp hose. thinner "walls" allowing more flow but at a lower pressure. HP line would have a thicker wall but smaller ID allowing less flow but runs at a much higher pressure (550-850psi)

i never bother swapping to LP hose... Not sure whats on the vice but it has no issues with hp or lp tanks. same with my indy and marq. all three run 200-220psi on the hpr. 180psi is not much to ask for.



Im curious if the stock bolt functions correctly at 180psi (or whatever pressure the HE engine is commanding to get your desired fps)


If something is not getting enough pressure at 180psi then its not a bolt issue. if the stock bolt runs at 180psi (obviously it will not be shooting your crono speed but at least it works) it will mean the HE engine has something goofy going on.
It'll shoot and chrono fine with the stock bolt. I'm going to drop it down to 160 psi and try it with the stock bolt. I'll put a few thousand more cycles on the TechT engine as well to try and break it in.

Quote:
Originally Posted by van457 View Post
i8somepie, with bolt lubed and backcap off/ no barrel, try moving bolt back and forth with your fingers. If it's to tight (rear bolt oring to big) it will be harder to move than it should be,it should move with almost no resistance at all. Some g series gun breaches seem to vary a bit.On all of my 2 sons and my g series guns I've turned down back of bolt some to allow use of smaller oring. I don't know what size the orings I use are as I got them in a ring kit and they work.With my yougest sons g3 I have to use dow55 on his oring, If I don't it will leak. See post on rkenders bolt mod,I think turned rear bolt demensions are there.
I've tried and it does require more force than the stock bolt, which I would assume since neither the internal orings have been broken in for it. A G3 would be much easier to set-up because of the orings are on the bolt instead of the breach and a simple oring change could potentially fix my issue.

I'll check how low I can get my stock bolt to operate at and I'll put a few thousand more cycles with the TechT and see if that helps. If not, I'm going to have to give them a call.
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Old 11-16-2012, 10:46 PM #16
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so the stock bolt works at the pressure that the HE engine "should run at" (180psi?)
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Old 11-21-2012, 10:42 PM #17
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It ended up being my solenoid? Swapped it out and its fine now. Weird.
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Old 11-21-2012, 11:13 PM #18
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