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11-05-2012, 12:30 AM
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#1
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Looking into getting a Karnivor
As the title says I am looking into getting an Autococker Karnivor. I am an old school guy that used to play with spiders, automags, and 97 autococker. I am fairly new to the newer electronic markers. With that being said, is there anything I should look out for when looking for a Karnivor? What kind of price range should I be looking to at and is there anything else i should know?
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11-05-2012, 01:09 AM
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#2
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boom boom king
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Portland, Oregon
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300-500 depending on condition, colors and rarity. Plenty on BST and eBay. I'd recommend an E2 over the E1 better battery life, more shooting options.
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11-05-2012, 07:19 AM
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#3
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Dallas PA
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If you are new to kanivors MAKE SURE THE INTERNALS ARE GOOD...if you never used a karni before the internals are shall we say...unique. Very good gun though I have three and may get a fourth one very soon 
__________________
TEAM Voodoo
11/7/12 Officially Sponsored by Bob Long!!!
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11-05-2012, 10:00 AM
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#4
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That sounds good. I still have my 97 autococker from when I played years ago. If the karnivor's internals are simular then I don't see myself having trouble fixing or tuning it. 300-500 does not sound too bad. Thanks guys.
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11-05-2012, 04:52 PM
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#5
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Abilene, TX
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They are similar in concept, but the parts don't interchange.
ZeroB, Tadao, or E2 boards are worth the extra $$$ over the E1. Other than that...look for upgraded pneumatics to set the price a little higher.
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11-05-2012, 06:19 PM
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#7
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boom boom king
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Portland, Oregon
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That one looks good, I've purchased from Bosch before and was really happy in the end.
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11-05-2012, 07:46 PM
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#8
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Don't eat that....
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Lynn, AR
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that looks like a nice one, it has the newer frame that came stock with an e2/zero-b. the bigger window is the giveaway. the older frames that came with e1s the window is smaller and offset to the right a little. also has an mp4 ram with the integrated qev's instead of the other one with normal qev's
i had one very similar to that, serial number was even close lol. i really enjoyed it.
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11-05-2012, 08:44 PM
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#9
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Thank you guys for the great information. I would hate to buy a lesser model. I pulled the trigger and I am now the new owner of it. I can't wait to receive it in the mail!!
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11-06-2012, 09:19 AM
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#10
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Dallas PA
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That one looks good, not a bad price either.
__________________
TEAM Voodoo
11/7/12 Officially Sponsored by Bob Long!!!
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11-11-2012, 04:18 PM
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#11
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I received the Karni and its a work of art. I have not shot it yet but i adjusted the trigger to my liking. It has a nice predictable linear feel to it now. I am wondering about one thing but its just me being picky. Are the solenoid 3 way valve housing threads not the same or slightly smaller than the block it bolts down to?
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11-12-2012, 02:55 PM
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#12
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: New Jersey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr2racer7
Are the solenoid 3 way valve housing threads not the same or slightly smaller than the block it bolts down to?
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are you asking if the housing threads and front block noid threads are the same?
they are. Tolerances might be off slightly causing a loose fit. You can either use Teflon tape, loctite, or install a set screw to prevent it from moving. |
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11-12-2012, 04:22 PM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbkid0486
are you asking if the housing threads and front block noid threads are the same?
they are. Tolerances might be off slightly causing a loose fit. You can either use Teflon tape, loctite, or install a set screw to prevent it from moving.
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I am not sure if i follow you but I am talking about the housing that holds the solenoid and bolts up to the block on the gun. Either way your suggestion of using teflon tape is perfect. I can't believe I did not think of it. I know its not a critical item that needs to be tight but I am going to add some teflon tap to make it snug. |
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11-13-2012, 01:42 AM
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#14
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr2racer7
I am not sure if i follow you but I am talking about the housing that holds the solenoid and bolts up to the block on the gun. Either way your suggestion of using teflon tape is perfect. I can't believe I did not think of it. I know its not a critical item that needs to be tight but I am going to add some teflon tap to make it snug.
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First thing you should probably buy is a barrel back with a smaller bore, they still have the stock Karnivor barrels here and they even come in dust black!!! 
http://paintballgateway.com/wgpbarrels1.html
__________________
MOWING FACES WITH A KARNIVOR PRO
Paintball is like drugs: It's expensive, addictive, and it hurts everyone around you.
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11-13-2012, 06:34 AM
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#15
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: New Cumberland, PA
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For $40 just get it bored for freaks.
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11-13-2012, 04:59 PM
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#16
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What size bore do you guys recommend?
Darkapollo: Are you saying get the Karnivor machined? Whats the benefit of it?
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11-13-2012, 05:43 PM
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#17
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Don't eat that....
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Lynn, AR
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hes saying just get the barrel you have bored to accept freak inserts. i think most people do it for about $30, then you get the looks of a matching stock barrel and the benefits of a freak kit.
although i havent used anything bigger than .682 or .684 on my cockers in 2 years. rarely do i use the .684.
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11-13-2012, 06:38 PM
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#18
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: New Cumberland, PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr2racer7
What size bore do you guys recommend?
Darkapollo: Are you saying get the Karnivor machined? Whats the benefit of it?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rebel_816
hes saying just get the barrel you have bored to accept freak inserts. i think most people do it for about $30, then you get the looks of a matching stock barrel and the benefits of a freak kit.
although i havent used anything bigger than .682 or .684 on my cockers in 2 years. rarely do i use the .684.
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Rebel hit it on the nose. 
The barrel backs on PBG are $40. If you are going to spend that coin on ONE back you might as well spend $10 less and get the back you have now, which is a useless .689  , bored out for freak inserts, pick up one or two inserts or find a kit and never worry about only having a limited size back.
Im a stickler for matching barrels and guns.. since a Ti Kaner kit was not to be had for cheap, and I alrady have a full freak kit, and my Karni is NEVER being sold, I sent it off to SSC (I won a raffle and this was my prize) for a freak bore. |
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11-14-2012, 07:57 PM
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#19
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I looked into the freak kit and I like the idea but i don't completely agree with it. I am actually looking at the Lapco barrels. I read the only down side is that they are loud. What do you guys think? What bore should I be looking into if i going to buy a Lapco barrel? I am not dead set on Lapco but I cant seem to find reviews on others that are more accurate than them.
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11-14-2012, 08:33 PM
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#20
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Los Angeles, CA
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I'm with all the other guys on this one. Freak bore the Kaner barrel and get some a .675, .679, .684 inserts and you'll be all set.
As for a lapco barrel, the smallest bore I've seen is a .684. So get that one or the smallest bore you can find.
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11-14-2012, 10:10 PM
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#21
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Colorado
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Bore your barrel forgot that was an option. Best way to go for sure.
__________________
MOWING FACES WITH A KARNIVOR PRO
Paintball is like drugs: It's expensive, addictive, and it hurts everyone around you.
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