Sr autococker help

bma5000 · 10-23-2012, 11:22 PM

Got a sr that is leaking from the 5 way valve, I believe it's from the vent on the top side of the valve, not sure if its the o rings leaking between the valves in the 5 way or if its coming out the ram back into the 5 way, any sr users out the got any ideas what might be up? Should be a easy fix jus not sure where to start

Dk-79 · 10-23-2012, 11:35 PM

IDK if you have an LPR, but most autococker solenoids vent if the LPR is too high.

barrel roll · 10-24-2012, 09:59 AM

Did you recently do anything to it? If Yes - make sure everything is lubed and tight.

How far turned in is the LPR?

Are you sure it isnt the back vent on the ram?

tacxplosion · 10-24-2012, 10:03 AM

You might want to lower the LPR pressure, if that doesn't cure it, try oiling through the QEV's (Push/pull piston to closest position to QEV, then lightly poke QEV with ball end allen wrench, pour some oil onto exhaust and cycle ram to distribute oil in that side of it).

If that doesn't take care of it then you might need to lube the 'noid spool (I've had mine for at least 2 years and never have needed to lube the spool).

bma5000 · 10-24-2012, 04:41 PM

I've got the lot adjusted in just enough to operate the marker, the marker had all kinds of issues when I got it , leaking air almost every where, after tearing it down and lubeing it up its good to go exept for the leak from the 5 way valve, it's a small leak that I can stop by putting my finger over the vent, how ever I know notice it leaks from the other vent while the ram is in the other position( basically while the marker waits for a paintball before sending the bolt home) and with a lot more force from this end, making me wonder if its coming from the ram some how these sr's are cool but a bit different from regular cockers. Any way I got the piston from the 5 way mailed off to a o ring specialist who's gonna fit it for free if he can get the right size, hopefully it's as easy as that to fix

barrel roll · 10-24-2012, 06:16 PM

I could have sold you one...

Check on the ram bumpers , since you can't play with it right now anyway.

bma5000 · 10-24-2012, 06:32 PM

What should I look for in the ram bumpers? What would be this sign of a bad bumper?

barrel roll · 10-24-2012, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bma5000

What should I look for in the ram bumpers? What would be this sign of a bad bumper?

Look to see that they aren't destroyed.

barrel roll · 10-31-2012, 09:06 AM

Anything?

bma5000 · 10-31-2012, 02:44 PM

Bumper and internals all seem good in the ram, waiting for the new orings to come in for my 5 way valve, did notice I am missing a ball detent tho, never taking a chance buying a used marker online again

barrel roll · 11-01-2012, 07:22 AM

Nah, it is still worth it buying a used marker.

If you want a spare cocking solenoid for the SR, let me know. I have 3.

Darkapollo · 11-01-2012, 07:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bma5000

Bumper and internals all seem good in the ram, waiting for the new orings to come in for my 5 way valve, did notice I am missing a ball detent tho, never taking a chance buying a used marker online again

You bought one of the least desirable 'cockers' ever branded by wgp. You just need to do more research before buying used.
All of my guns were bought used and Ive never had an issue with any of them.
You should just pump it.

bma5000 · 11-01-2012, 09:38 AM

You might be right

Darkapollo · 11-01-2012, 12:13 PM

If you had bought a Karni or Eblade anything this thread would be filled with advice. The SR is notorious for leaking and electrical gremlins. Someone had to take the time to find or make new seals for the regulatoramanifoldramanoid blob because no one wanted to mess with them.

bma5000 · 11-01-2012, 03:05 PM

Smc has custom made o rings for there valve, regular o ring manufacturer doesn't carry them, e mailed smc see if they will help me out if not can buy a complete new valve from them for 45$

O ring city has sent me some close matches for the outter rings on the valve and doesn't have anything close to the inner ring, they are like less than 1 mm cross section.

Reddawg · 11-01-2012, 03:52 PM

I cut off the front end retheaded and put a regular front block set up on it. Also redid the ball detends too. If I could figure out how to post a pic I would.
I love it now.

Darkapollo · 11-01-2012, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reddawg

I cut off the front end retheaded and put a regular front block set up on it. Also redid the ball detends too. If I could figure out how to post a pic I would.
I love it now.

Ever heard of photobucket?

Reddawg · 11-01-2012, 05:28 PM

Here you go I put ball detends on both sides (Shock Tech)
http://s1065.photobucket.com/albums/...=103112039.jpg

bma5000 · 11-01-2012, 05:43 PM

Looks good

barrel roll · 11-01-2012, 05:55 PM

You found the valve on SMC's website catalog? I couldn't find a 5v one when I looked, but that was a while ago.

The only time I ever had leaking from the cocking valve was when I didn't lube it up right, or when I didn't tighten it enough.

Truth be told, I've never experienced any electrical issues either. The only issue was the ram piston bumpers wearing out and pieces keeping the QEVs open. Easy fix though.

Make sure that ram piston is locktited on, too. It sucks when it comes loose mid game at PSP World Cup. lol

Post Script - If you consider the short life of the OLED electrical, I have seen that twice. And on Tadao boards, and on Virtue boards. All boards that used the same screen and driver.

bma5000 · 11-01-2012, 06:53 PM

I had to email smc and then representative added it to the online catalog the next day so I could order one if needed