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Old 09-27-2004, 04:30 PM #1
John from PMI
 
 
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Post Piranha FAQ

Version 2.0

PMI Piranha FAQ Contents

I. Regular Maintenance for the Piranha

II. Marker Won’t Recock
A. The gun is cycling (stuttering or making a loud BRRAAAAP noise like it is out of air)
B. Bolt is hanging, slow or sluggish
C. Gun cycles down or burps often but works fine with paint or back pressure
D. Bolt and Cocking Rod Slam Forward and Stay Forward. Ball Gets Little to No Velocity.
E. Bolt and cocking rod slam forward and stay forward. Ball gets regular velocity.
F. Cocking Rod Stays Back Even When Trigger is Pulled (Gun Doesn’t Fire)
G. G2 Fires once but Trigger needs to be Pushed Forward for the Marker to Fire a Second Time
H. G2 Fires only after Pulling Back Cocking Rod 1/8” Every Time
I. Cocking Rod Stays Back Even When Trigger is Pulled (Gun Doesn’t Fire)
J. Old style Piranha Pro Trigger Sticks in the Rear Position
K. Old Style Piranha Pro Almost Re-cocks but Cocking Rod Needs to be Pulled ¼”
L. Marker Jams and Does Not Fire

III. Leaks
A. Worn or missing bolt o-rings can not cause leaks.
B. Marker Leaks Down Barrel
C. Marker Still Leaks Down Barrel with New Cup Seal and the Valve is in Correctly
D. Marker Leaks Down Barrel and Won’t Recock or Get Velocity
E. Marker Leaks Out Ram Air
F. Leaks from Trigger or out the side of Piranha
G. Leaks from Bottom Line out bleed hole
H. Leaks from top of gas through grip
I. Leaks from bottomline or where tank screws in

IV. Velocity too Low

V. Velocity too High

VI. Paint is Inaccurate or Breaks in Gun

VII. Paint Chops or Doesn’t Feed
A. Firing too fast:
B. Gun is going full auto:
C. Ball Retainer Swollen:
D. Venturi bolt face is becoming unscrewed:
E. Paint is not feeding and the Ball Stop Too Large:
F. Paint still doesn’t fall after ball stop is ground down:
G. Paint still doesn’t fall after ball stop is ground down and no brazing compound is evident:

VIII. O-rings and Oil
A. What Kind of Oil is Best for the Piranha?
B. Lost Front Bolt O-ring
C. Soft Hammer O-ring
D. Broken Black O-ring
E. My bottle O-ring turned white while it was on the gun.
F. What o-rings should I use on my Piranha?

IX. Rear Block
A. Rear Block won’t go back in gun
B. Rear Block Broken
C. Rear Block Stuck even with Field Strip Pin Out

X. Safety
A. Safety Fails
B. Slide safety works on first trigger pull but fires on second or third trigger pull.
C. Pro Safety fires On Safe.
D. Safety wiggles back and forth on single or double trigger

XI. Bolt Wear
A. Bolt Broken
B. My bolt is all scratched up, what do I do?

XII. How do I go Low pressure?
Step 1 - Buying parts
Step 2 - Drilling
Step 3 - Installing
Step 4 - Troubleshooting

XIII. Re-assembly Problems
A. Back block won’t go into gun.
B. Bolt won’t go all the way forward.
C. Bolt won’t go all the way forward, and sight rail is on gun.
D. Barrel doesn’t thread
E. The back grip frame screw won’t tighten. How do I fix it?
F. Sear release slide doesn’t work:
G. Installing the new Sear

XIV. Random Problems & Questions
A. Rattle From Front of the Marker
B. Sear Pin or Trigger Pin Fall Out of trigger frame
C. What does a Regulator do?
D. What does an Expansion Chamber do?
E. STS Box said the gun would come with a turbo valve but it didn’t
F. Cocking Rod Flakes
G. Piranha is inaccurate
H. How many shots a second can the Piranha shoot?
I. What should I do to cold weather-proof my Piranha?
J. What is the bore size on a stock Piranha?
K. What is interchangeable between a Spyder and the Piranha?
L. What does a Ram Air do?
M. I want to switch to N2, what do I need to change?
N. What is the difference between a vertical feed and a powerfeed?
O. Where is my serial number?
P. Storm Frame, Mako Frame or Boo Yaah Electronic Frame – Problems and Warranty
Q. Where can I find Additional Information?

XV. Evo and eForce Problems
A. Evo or eForce Does Not Turn On
B. Evo or eForce Trigger Sticks
C. Evo or eForce Clicks Instead of Firing
D. Evo Will Not Switch to Full Auto or Burst Modes
E. Evo Eyes Fail
F. Evo or eForce charging


XVI. Warranty and Parts
A. Can I buy a parts kit from PMI?
B. How do I get parts under warranty?
C. I have a gun I can’t fix myself; can I send it back for repairs?
D. I need a new manual. Where can I get one for free?

XVII. How do I contact Piranha?



I. Regular Maintenance for the Piranha

Clean all broken paint out regularly. Do this before you oil the gun.

Oil marker with synthetic gun oil each time you play. Do not use 3-in-1 or firearm oil. PMI or Extreme Rage oil works the best.

The fastest way to oil your Piranha is to drop three or four drops in the ASA and screw the bottle in over it. Take the barrel off and shoot the gun with no paint several dozen times to cycle oil through the gun.

Inspect the bolt and hammer o-rings after each time you oil the gun. Make sure they are getting oil.

Clean the out the powerfeed or vertical feed. Any oil or paint in there will make the gun inaccurate.

Never wash the bolt assembly off with water unless you are going to oil the parts before you reassemble them. Dry before oiling.

Check ball retainer every 25,000 shots. Replace if it is worn or broken.

Never stretch hammer spring to increase velocity. This will shorten the life span of the spring. Tighten the velocity adjuster, use a higher tension spring, or raise the pressure in your regulator to increase velocity. Springs in order from weakest to strongest (White, Blue, Red and Green)
__________________
ramenjames - "so.....i guess PMI should stop making such a quality product so i can grind the crap out of it"

PMI/Evil Tech Support - 800-579-1633
Email - support@pminetwork.com

Last edited by the.evil.tech : 10-21-2004 at 11:27 AM.
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Old 09-27-2004, 04:31 PM #2
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II. Marker Won’t Recock

A. The gun is cycling (stuttering or making a loud BRRAAAAP noise like it is out of air) or marker shoots twice or more when the trigger has only been pulled once.

First, make sure it is not out of air.

Hammer O-ring – A seriously worn or missing Piranha hammer o-ring (35) will cause the gun to cycle uncontrollably. Do not replace with a bottle o-ring! A bottle o-ring on the hammer will also cause the gun to cycle like it is full auto. A old Piranha hammer o-ring is clear in color, like a bottle o-ring, but much softer. Newer Piranha hammer o-rings are blue. Hammer o-rings do not usually go bad unless you are not oiling the gun or not using synthetic gun oil.

Sear Pin - A sear pin that is coming out of the marker will cause the gun to cycle. Lightly tap the pin back into place with a hammer. If the problem continues, remove the pin and re-instal it on the other side of the marker.

Sear – A rounded, chipped or broken sear could cause the gun to cycle. A worn sear will cycle increasingly as the sear wears out more and more. A truly worn sear will cycle until the cocking rod is stopped or the tank is out of air. Inspect by taking the grip frame off the receiver and looking at the back tip of the sear. If it needs to be replaced, knock the pin out of the grip frame from the left-hand side so it slides out the right and replace the sear.

Hammer – If the lip of the hammer (14) that catches the sear has mushroomed up or been bent, it will not catch the sear properly and the gun will cycle uncontrollably. Replace if that edge is deformed. There is an anti-rust coating on the hammer that will scratch off where the sear touches it. This is part of normal wear. You're looking to see if sear has actually deformed the lip of the hammer.

Regulator too Low - If your regulator (tank or vertical regulator) is set too low, then your velocity will be low and the marker will not recock properly. Raise the pressure.

Turbo Valve – Some of the older discontinued turbo valves (modified part # 6) have been known to cause a gun to occasionally cycle – especially if used on CO2. If everything else has been checked, it could be the turbo valve. Replace with a stock valve.

Cup Seal Loose – Make sure the valve pin (part 7) is tightened snug into the cup seal (8) . If it won't tighten and it is just spinning in the cup seal, the cup seal is damaged or stripped. Replace. If the two are not screwed together at all then the cup seal is already stripped. Replace. Newer guns have a cup seal that is molded to the valve pin. They can not unscrew and cause this problem.

B. Bolt is hanging, slow or sluggish
Are all the bolt o-rings there? Are there any partial bits of o-rings stuck? Is there oil present on the bolt and hammer o-rings?

C. Gun cycles down or burps often but works fine with paint or back pressure
We need to check four things.

1. Hammer o-ring could have been replaced with bottle o-ring. The hammer o-ring needs to be a true PMI hammer o-ring. A bottle o-ring or a Spyder hammer o-ring will not work. Piranha hammer o-rings are blue.

2. Regulator pressure too low. Raise the pressure and see if the problem goes away.

3. Valve pin modified and made too short. This wouldn’t allow the valve pin to get hit by the hammer hard enough to open the valve long enough. Marker will probably experience low velocity.

4. Turbo valve – If you have installed a Turbo valve – your gun might not work correctly without back pressure. The only way to solve that is to modify the flats on the valve pin so more air goes to recock.

D. Bolt and Cocking Rod Slam Forward and Stay Forward. Ball Gets Little to No Velocity.
It sounds like the valve is in backwards. The gun will usually leak as well. The valve side with the larger hole needs to face forward. The tapered hole or the side with two holes needs to face the back.

E. Bolt and cocking rod slam forward and stay forward. Ball gets regular velocity.
Hammer o-ring might have been replaced with a bottle o-ring. Hammer o-rings are soft, not hard like a bottle o-ring. Older hammer o-rings are a clear to yellow color, not black. New hammer o-rings are blue.

F. Cocking Rod Stays Back Even When Trigger is Pulled (Gun Doesn’t Fire)
Is the safety on? Piranha mechanical trigger frames have a slide safety that will still allow you to pull the trigger even if the safety is engaged. However, the pawl will not actuate the sear so it won’t allow the marker to fire.

If the marker is electronic, it has to be turned on to fire. The eForce light on the side will glow red when the marker is on. If that light is blinking or it will not fire with every trigger pull then charge the battery.

G. G2 Fires once but Trigger needs to be Pushed Forward for the Marker to Fire a Second Time
See Below.

H. G2 Fires only after Pulling Back Cocking Rod 1/8” Every Time
See Below.

I. Cocking Rod Stays Back Even When Trigger is Pulled (Gun Doesn’t Fire)
You should try this fix if you can push the trigger forward and hear it click or if you can recock it again by pulling the cocking rod back only slightly and it will fire. You have to remove a small amount of plastic to give the trigger more forward play. If you do not feel comfortable doing this fix – please call PMI and we'll do it for you.

1. Remove trigger frame from receiver with 1/8th allen wrench that comes with the gun.

2. Punch out trigger pin from left to right. The trigger pin is the black pin above the safety.

3. The trigger will slide out the bottom of the frame with a little bit of work.

4. Remove trigger and spring. The spring sits vertically in a round notch right below the front prong of the trigger.

5. Look at the front of the trigger, just above where your fingers touch the trigger is a flat section. On this flat section is a raised rectangular flat section. It is only the thickness of a business card. File this raised rectangular flat section off.

6. Reassemble and test. If you filed down the plastic square and the gun still does not function, you should follow the directions in 7. If the gun works, you’re done.

7. File down the leading (front) edge of the hole that the trigger sticks out of in the trigger frame. Remove 1/32 of an inch of material. That should fix the problem. I have heard that some triggers bottomed out against the bottom of receiver causing the same problem but the top of the trigger had to be filed down so the trigger could go all the way forward.

J. Old style Piranha Pro Trigger Sticks in the Rear Position
Create the problem and do not reset the trigger. Take the trigger frame off and check to see if the tip of the modified trigger (this is the piece that the trigger shoe bolts onto) is stuck below the safety bar. If it is, file down the tip of the modified trigger so it clears easily.

K. Old style Piranha Pro Almost Re-cocks but Cocking Rod Needs to be Pulled ¼”
Examine the trigger shoe and make sure that it is not preventing the trigger from sliding all the way forward. Reposition trigger using the four Allen screws if trigger shoe is blocking forward movement.

L. Marker Jams and does not fire
The bolt could have caught itself on a paintball. Pull the cocking rod back again to let the ball fall the rest of the way in the chamber.
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PMI/Evil Tech Support - 800-579-1633
Email - support@pminetwork.com
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Old 09-27-2004, 04:32 PM #3
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III. Leaks

A. Worn or missing bolt o-rings can not cause leaks.
If your gun is leaking down the barrel, see below.

B. Marker Leaks Down Barrel
Leaks down the barrel are one of three things. Here they are in the order they could go bad: the cup seal (8) , valve o-rings or the valve (6) itself. The valve is stainless steel so it should never wear, so the cup seal should be inspected first. The cup seal can be found in the front portion of the gun behind the Ram Air or the custom ASA assembly. If you are in a pinch, you can actually sand the surface of a bad cup seal with super fine (600 grit, water based) sandpaper and modify it so it will seal again. If the valve is in backwards, it will leak.

C. Marker Still Leaks Down Barrel with New Cup Seal and the Valve is in Correctly
The valve (6) leaking down barrel even with a new cup seal (8) . If the o-rings are good and the cup seal is good and the valve is in the correct way (large hole pointing to the front of the gun), it must be the valve itself. Try sanding down the surface of the valve with 1000 grit sandpaper.

D. Marker Leaks Down Barrel and Won’t Recock or Get Velocity
The valve (6) is in backwards. The side with the clear o-ring needs to face forward in the gun and the black o-ring needs to face the back. The larger hole needs to be on the side with the clear o-ring and the smaller, tapered hole needs to be on the side with the black o-ring. The black o-ring can be replaced with a bottle o-ring if necessary.

E. Marker Leaks Out Ram Air
The Ram Air O-ring (3d) inside of the Ram Air Chamber (3a) does not go bad easily. However, dirt can get into the Ram Air causing it to leak.

Make sure that the o-ring (part 37) between the Ram Air chamber and the ASA adapter is still in place. It just sits down in the asa body (3) and the Ram Air Chamber (3a) screws in on top of it. It is just a tank o-ring.

The first step is clean the Ram Air. Degas the marker and unscrew the Ram Air chamber. Use an Allen wrench to push the Ram Air Piston (3C) out of the Ram Air Chamber.

Inspect the spring. If it is bent, then that was the cause of the leak. The new Ram Airs come with a ground spring so they are less likely to get bent during normal use of the gun. Call PMI for a replacement spring. The part number is 10650.

Clean the inside of the Ram Air Chamber thoroughly with a paper towel or even water. Clean the Ram Air O-ring. Re-oil the o-ring. Put a drop or two of oil in the Ram Air Chamber itself so the o-ring and piston will slide into the chamber.

Reinstalling the Ram Air Piston is more likely to damage the Ram Air O-ring than anything, so put it back together by stacking the Ram Air Piston and the spring on the table and pushing the Ram Air Chamber over it. That way it pushes on the o-ring evenly.

If the marker continues to leak, the o-ring in the Ram Air might need to be replaced. PMI locations stock an oversized Ram Air O-ring, part number 10661, that will fix any leak I’ve ever seen on a Ram Air not caused by a bent spring.

F. Leaks from Trigger or out the side of Piranha
If your Piranha leaks out the side of the gun or through the trigger then it is probably one of the valve o-rings. These will leak if you are not properly oiling your Piranha with synthetic oil. Instructions for taking the valve out can be found on pages 21 and 22 of the G2 manual.

You need to make sure to push the valve out the front of the gun. Do not drop the valve or scratch the front surface of the valve in any way or the gun might leak through the barrel.

Both o-rings on the valve can be replaced with bottle o-rings. You need to oil both o-rings and the inside of the receiver body before pushing the valve back in. Make sure that the front of the valve (the side that points towards the front of the gun and touches the cup seal) is the side with a larger hole.

Re-inserting the valve should be done carefully so you don't scratch the front. Do not push the valve in with a screwdriver or metal object. Use the eraser end of a pencil or a wooden spoon to push the valve back into place. Do not over tighten the valve set screw.

G. Leaks from Bottom Line out bleed hole
Check the o-ring on the bottle first. If that looks perfect and has a drop of oil on it, only then try screwing it into the gun. You don’t have to screw it in quickly and you shouldn’t have to tighten it down all the way. If the bottle’s pin on the pin valve is higher than the pin valve itself, the bottle might not ever seal right on a Piranha. That is a defective bottle.

H. Leaks from top of gas through grip
The gas through grip can unscrew from the ASA. Do not remove fittings. They are Teflon taped in. The easiest way to unscrew the grip off an STS or EXT is to take out the two bottomline screws (42) and then unscrew the grip. There is a regular bottle o-ring at the top of the gas through grip. Check and replace if needed. Oil before you screw it back in.

I. Leaks from bottomline or where tank screws in
Check the o-ring on the bottle first. If that looks perfect and has a drop of oil on it, only then try screwing it into the gun. You don’t have to screw it in quickly and you shouldn’t have to tighten it down all the way. If the bottle’s pin on the pin valve is higher than the pin valve itself, the bottle might not ever seal right on a Piranha. That is a defective bottle.

J. Leaks from Hose connection, elbow or bottom of gas through grip

IV. Velocity too Low

A. Go through this basic velocity checklist to see if any of these will increase your fps.

Make sure your tank is full of air.

Is there a regulator installed on the gun? A stock Piranha is not designed to run under 650 psi, so make sure the regulator is not starving the gun for air.

Make sure you are screwing your velocity screw in clockwise to raise your velocity.

Here all the springs in order from weakest (low velocity) to strongest (high velocity): White, Blue, Red and Green.
A red hammer spring will increase velocity over a blue spring.

Oil the bolt and hammer. A Piranha without oil can shoot up to 100 fps slow!

Never stretch hammer spring to increase velocity. This will shorten the life span of the spring.

Make sure the paint you were shooting isn't really small bore and that it can't just roll through your barrel.

Make sure that your front o-ring is still there.

Your filters in your vertical ASA might be clogged. Try blowing air through them the reverse way. Some people have had good results using carburetor cleaner as well.

B. We have a green spring that is a higher tension spring. That will increase velocity if all these solutions fail. However, a green spring will cause premature wear on your marker and can never be used with an electronic frame.

C. As a last case scenario, we can also drill out your older ASA if you are still having velocity problems due to not enough air getting into the gun. The ASA hole that feeds air into older guns can be drilled out by a qualified airsmith. Most older ASAs have a small hole on the side feeding the gun and a larger hole going into the Ram Air or low-pressure plug. You want to enlarge the hole feeding air into the gun. That modification has been done stock to Piranhas since 2001.

D. If you drill too big, you’ll run into the hole that the ASA screw screws into. Once you do this, your gun will leak through the ASA screw unless you Teflon tape it or plug it and find a shorter ASA screw. The largest we’ve been able to drill was a 3/16ths hole. We drilled that off center of the existing hole so the top of the new larger hole was actually scraping the top of the ASA.


V. Velocity too High

Back off Velocity Adjuster - Unscrewing the velocity adjuster will put less tension on the spring and lower velocity.

Changing Springs - If your gun is already running with a blue spring and the velocity adjuster is backed off, it should shoot easily under 280 fps. If you need your velocity lower, you can install the white low velocity spring.

Lower input pressure - Lowering the input pressure on your vertical regulator will also lower velocity.
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Email - support@pminetwork.com
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Old 09-27-2004, 04:35 PM #4
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VI. Paint Inaccurate or Breaks in Gun

Breaking paint in the barrel is very different from chopping paint before it enters the chamber all the way. If the gun is chopping paint, look below in the next section.

Ball breakage leads to inaccuracy and that should be something we can probably fix right now. The gun probably has broken paint in the barrel, feed tube, elbow or hopper. You need to get all of that paint cleaned out almost perfectly or the gun will not shoot straight. If you break one ball, it is very easy to break a second ball if you don't clean it out completely. You can use water to clean the barrel and elbow and even the hopper if it is not electronic. If there is any film, grease or water left in the barrel, hopper or elbow, the gun will not shoot straight and might continue to break paint. Make sure to dry all water from the marker before shooting.

If it is still giving you problems, try a different brand of paint. We think that Marballizer and Premium PMI paint work the best through all of the Piranhas. Buying the best paint is a sure way to cut down ball breakage. If your paint has dimples, it will rarely be accurate and it may have problems even leaving the barrel. However, even the best paint in the world will not work well if it is stored improperly.

Check your ball retainer and make sure it hasn't swollen or broken. If it has broken there is a second one in the parts kit that comes with the gun and you can find more in aftermarket Piranha parts kits. If the ball retainer is missing or broken, more than one ball can get into the barrel causing them both to break.

Is the gun stuttering? Making that braaaaping noise? Your gun might have another problem that is causing it to break paint. Call or email PMI and we’ll help troubleshoot it with you. Check under the recock problems to try to narrow down the problem.

The Venturi bolt does not break less paint than the regular bolt to the best of our knowledge. Most paint breakage is as a direct result of paint and weather conditions.

If paint is ever left in the cold or heat even once, it will never be as good as it was before. Paint can not be stored in cardboard boxes without a sealed bag to protect it. The easiest way to reduce ball breakage is to take care of your paint. Buying the best paint is a sure way to cut down ball breakage.

VII. Paint Chops or Doesn’t Feed

A. Firing too fast:
Paint chops when it is not falling all the way into the chamber faster than you are firing. This can usually be fixed with an agitating hopper that jostles paint so it drops into the chamber whenever it senses there is no paint feeding into the elbow.

B. Gun is going full auto:
Is the gun stuttering? Making that braaaaping noise? Your gun might have another problem that is causing it to chop paint. Check under the recock problems to try to narrow down the problem.

C. Ball Retainer Swollen:
Replace ball retainer if it is too large due to swelling. If it is swollen, you are using oil that is not designed for paintball guns. Switch to PMI or Extreme Rage oil.

D. Old style Blue Venturi bolt face is coming unscrewed:
Check to make sure that the bolt face on the Venturi bolt isn’t becoming unscrewed. That will block paint from feeding. That face needs to be loc-tighted securely in place. It should not turn freely. Newer style Venturi bolts do not unscrew.

E. Paint is not feeding through Powerfeed and the Ball Stop Too Large:
You can grind down the ball stop virtually any way and not harm it. I've even used the sidewalk in front of a paintball store to take a little bit of material off to help paint fall through the gun better.

F. Paint still doesn’t fall after ball stop is ground down:
The receiver might have a bit of brazing compound keeping paint from feeding correctly. A Dremmel tool can remove this without harming the receiver.

G. Paint still doesn’t fall after ball stop is ground down and no brazing compound is evident:
The receiver might be attached off center. Have an authorized PMI store inspect the receiver or call PMI.

Most paint breakage is as a direct result of paint and weather conditions. If paint is ever left in the cold even once, it will never be as good as it was before. Paint can not be stored in cardboard boxes without a sealed bag to protect it. The easiest way to reduce ball breakage is to take care of your paint.
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ramenjames - "so.....i guess PMI should stop making such a quality product so i can grind the crap out of it"

PMI/Evil Tech Support - 800-579-1633
Email - support@pminetwork.com
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Old 09-27-2004, 04:36 PM #5
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VIII. O-rings and Oil

A. What Kind of Oil is Best for the Piranha?
Synthetic silicone based oil (Dow Corning 200 fluid 20 cst) is what is use in production, but that is expensive. We’ve used PMI and Extreme Rage's new oil with excellent results. Do not use Hoppes # 9 oil, it will swell the o-rings in your marker.

B. Lost Front Bolt O-ring
Was it swollen? A swollen bolt o-ring won’t be able to stay on the bolt without the ball retainer taking it off. Was the ball retainer swollen? Replace ball retainer. Certain brands of oil can make ball retainers swell over time.

A lost front bolt o-ring will make your Piranha shoot approximately 20 fps slower and can cause major blowback up the feed tube. If you keep losing the front o-ring there is a chance you are using the wrong o-ring. If the bolt you are using came with black o-rings then the front o-ring is slightly smaller and thicker than the other bolt o-rings but it is still black like the bolt o-rings. Newer Piranhas come with clear tank o-rings on the bolt (15-090 u), but the front bolt o-ring is slightly softer (15-070 u).

C. Soft Hammer O-ring
It is supposed to be soft. A perfectly good hammer o-ring can be taken off a hammer with just fingers. A bottle o-ring can never be used on the hammer! Older hammer o-rings are clear. Newer hammer o-rings are blue.

D. Broken Black O-ring
These o-rings were used in older Piranhas and don’t actually seal anything. You will never fix a leak by replacing broken black o-rings.

E. Bottle O-ring turned white while it was on the gun.
Right now it won’t seal. It is probably oversized as well. Give it some time in a warm temperature and it will most likely go back down to normal size and work. That just means you had CO2 screwed onto the gun for too long and the o-ring became swollen. If you need the tank right now, use a different o-ring.

F. What o-rings should I use on my Piranha?
We designed the Piranha to accept tank o-rings in most spots. The hammer o-ring needs to be replaced with a real factory hammer o-ring. Replacing the hammer o-ring with a bottle o-ring will cause the gun to cycle uncontrollably or shoot once and keep the bolt forward. I can not stress this enough. Stretching a bottle o-ring to use it instead is not a good answer either.

I wouldn't try to put a bottle o-ring on the barrel either. The Ram Air O-ring is too small to be replaced with a bottle o-ring. You can replace most of the black o-rings in the gun with bottle o-rings. On older guns do not replace the back or middle bolt o-rings with bottle o-rings or the gun might have problems cycling. The front o-ring on the bolt can be replaced with a bottle o-ring, but the front bolt o-ring works better. Both valve o-rings can be replaced with bottle o-rings. All three o-rings that fit on the low-pressure chamber or Ram Air (with the exception of the o-ring inside the Ram Air) can be replaced with bottle o-rings. Newer Piranhas come with clear tank o-rings on the bolt (15-090 u), but the front bolt o-ring is slightly softer (15-070 u).

Worn, broken or missing bolt o-rings can not cause leaks. Neither the bolt nor the hammer seal air.

If you're concerned with the quality of tank o-rings you're getting, play it safe and go with a PMI parts kit.


IX. Rear Block

A. Rear Block won’t go back in gun
Gun disassembles fine but reassemble of guts is difficult even using sear release slide.
Is the sight rail off? Is the sight rail screw blocking the back block or bolt from reentering gun. Is the bolt pin all of the way in the bolt and the hammer? A bolt pin that is not installed all the way will make it impossible to put the bolt/block hammer assembly into the marker.

B. Rear Block Broken
Contact PMI for free replacement. 1-800-579-1633 or piranha@pminetwork.com

C. Rear Block Stuck even with Field Strip Pin Out
Has the sight rail been removed? If you take the sight rail off and put the screw back in, it will go too far into the receiver and it can prevent the bolt from being removed.

X. Safety

A. Safety Fails
Is it a plastic two fingered trigger and trigger frame?
Does it have a slide safety or a push button safety?

Push Button – Hole drilled too big for the safety itself so ball is creeping out and creating a groove. Contact PMI for free replacement. 1-800-579-1633 or piranha@pminetwork.com

Slide – Does the slide move back and forth freely? If it does, take off the left grip panel and look at the vertical notch below the safety bar hidden by the grip panel. The notch should have a small spring with a small ball bearing resting on top of it. If you slide the safety back and forth with the grip panel off, those might pop out. Without that ball and spring the safety won’t work. Call PMI for a free replacement ball and spring.

B. Slide safety works on first trigger pull but fires on second or third trigger pull.
Does the slide move back and forth freely? If it does, take off the left grip panel and look at the vertical notch below the safety bar hidden by the grip panel. The notch should have a small spring with a small ball bearing resting on top of it. If you slide the safety back and forth with the grip panel off, those might pop out. Without that ball and spring the safety won’t work. Call PMI for replacement ball and spring.

C. Old Style Piranha Pro Safety fires On Safe.
Is the tip of the modified trigger ground down right where it hits the safety?
Yes? – Needs a new modified trigger. (One that has not been ground at the factory – warranty bin)
No. – It needs to be sent in. Get a RA number before mailing it to PMI.

D. Push Button Safety wiggles back and forth on single or double trigger
Hole drilled too big for the safety itself so ball is creeping out and creating a groove. Call PMI for replacement frame.
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XI. Bolt Wear

A. Bolt Broken
Is your bolt purple? That marker is over 4 years old. If the bolt broke, then it is most likely a defect and we will replace it for free. If it did damage the barrel, then we need to look at that as well and replace it if necessary. Either way, I need the defective bolt back here at PMI and the barrel as well if you feel it is damaged. Please contact PMI right away if it is any other color bolt.

B. My bolt is all scratched up, what do I do?
The bolt will have a bit of natural wear. It is not something to be worried about. The o-rings are there to help the bolt from wearing but they will not protect all of it. The o-rings do not seal so that can not cause a leak.

Bolt wear should not hinder the performance of the gun. It is not a sign that the gun is wearing out in any way. Don't switch to larger o-rings because you might create a new problem. You want the bolt to recock without too much resistance. Make sure you're oiling the gun regularly and it should be fine.


XII. How do I go Low pressure? This procedure applies to older markers only. Evos and EXTs are already low pressure and will not see a performance increase from doing these steps. SRTs only need a regulator to go Low Pressure.

Step 1 - Buying parts
Buy a regulator, turbo valve and a spring kit. Pure Energy makes a good vertical regulator and Evil makes a great one. Shocktech makes a good spring kit and PMI's turbo valve works every bit as well as AKA's but for much less. I've tested all these at different times. If you have a BL or VTL, you’ll need a low pressure chamber. If you have an older STS, EXT Pro or Pro – the Ram Air Chamber will work fine.

I think an on/off tank also helps improve air flow. You should have an anti-siphon bottle if you're playing with your CO2 bottle on-gun.

Step 2 Drilling
Drill out the ASA. Most ASAs have a small hole on the side feeding the gun and a larger hole going into the Ram Air. You want to enlarge the hole feeding air into the gun. Once you do this, your gun will leak through the ASA screw unless you Teflon tape it or plug it and find a shorter ASA screw. This will void the warranty on your ASA.

New Packaged Ram Air Chambers and some of the new colored guns from PMI have this larger hole already made and come with a shorter ASA screw already.

Step 3 - Installing
Screw in the regulator, oil and push in the Turbo Valve (it should come with a different set screw) and reassemble the drilled out ASA.

Step 4 - Troubleshooting
Do not stretch or cut the valve spring. Your Piranha will work fine on low pressure without modifying or replacing the valve spring.

If your gun is burping, skipping shots or double firing when you are just dry firing the gun, your Piranha might need back pressure. Try a softer spring combination with a higher pressure. If this doesn't work, you might have to modify the valve pin to allow more air for recock.

Once your Piranha is re-cocking every time, adjust the regulator so that you are getting enough velocity and still giving yourself enough room to make minor velocity changes using the adjustment in the back.


XIII. Re-assembly Problems

A. Back block won’t go into gun.
If the sight rail is off the marker and the screws have been put back in the gun, they might prevent the back block from being inserted all the way into the gun. Is the bolt pin all of the way in the bolt and the hammer? A bolt pin that is not installed all the way will make it impossible to put the bolt/block hammer assembly into the marker.

B. Bolt won’t go all the way forward.
If the sight rail is off the marker and the screws have been put back in the gun, they might prevent the bolt from being inserted all the way into the gun.

C. Bolt won’t go all the way forward, and sight rail is on gun.
Make sure that your hammer cushion (16) isn’t in the gun in front of the hammer. That rubber stopper would prevent the hammer and bolt from going all the way forward. Newer markers have the hammer cushion attached to the rear block so this can't happen. A hammer o-ring partially off the marker can also cause the gun bolt to not go all the way forward.

D. Barrel doesn’t thread
Does the barrel thread into another Piranha or Spyder? Will another Spyder or Piranha barrel fit your Piranha?

Does the barrel even fit into the receiver all the way to the threads?

If the body is defective, PMI will replace it. If the barrel is a PMI barrel and defective, then we’ll replace it.

If the barrel threads and it goes most of the way in, you can try Tap Magic on the threads. We've seen several other barrel manufacturers barrels that did not fit our receivers that we were able to fix with Tap Magic before they would thread properly.

E. The back grip frame screw won’t tighten. How do I fix it?
If the back grip frame screw has stripped out the main body of the receiver then it can be fixed with a heli coil.

You need a 10/32 pitch size by a .190 height Heli Coil (basically that is an 1/8 inch). I think it is the smallest Heli Coil they make in that thread pitch size. 10 is the diameter of the screw and 32 is the number of threads per square inch. Inserts are only 50 cents or so.

F. Sear release slide doesn’t work:
You have to push the slide before you try to jam the guts back in the gun. If there is already pressure on the sear, the slide won’t work.

G. Installing the new Sear
Take the grip frame off the receiver. It is held on by two 1/8" allen screws.

There is one pin that holds in the old sear. Knock the pin out of the grip frame from the left-hand side so it slides out the right. You want to push it from the side that says "Made by PMI" so it slides out the other side. The best tools to use are a 5/32” drift punch and a ball peen hammer.

Once the pin is out, look at how the sear is attached to the spring so you can reattach the new sear.

Take the old sear out and put the new sear in. After the new sear is in place, line up the hole in the sear with the hole in the grip frame and slide the pin back into the gun from the right hand side. The smooth end of the pin should go in first. You will need to gently tap the pin back into place with a hammer.

If you need help reassembling the gun, email piranha@pminetwork.com or call 1-800-579-1633.

Mail the old sear back to the address below so we can test it and see what exactly went wrong with it.

PMI
Attention: John Dresser
55 Howard Ave
Des Plaines, IL 60018
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Old 09-27-2004, 04:43 PM #7
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XIV. Random Problems & Questions

A. Rattle From Front of the Marker
Front of Marker Rattles from a Loose Piece inside. There isn’t really anything that can break inside, so there are three possible culprits: the Ram Air Spring, broken filters and a Valve Pin that has come loose from the Cup Seal.

A loose Ram Air Spring inside the Ram Air is not a problem. If the Ram Air leaks and rattles then the whole assembly needs to be cleaned and oiled. Degas the marker and unscrew the Ram Air chamber. Use an Allen wrench to push the Ram Air Piston out of the Ram Air Chamber. Clean the inside of the Ram Air Chamber thoroughly. Clean the Ram Air O-ring. Re-oil the o-ring. Put a drop of oil in the Ram Air Chamber so the o-ring and piston will slide into the chamber. Reassemble.

A loose valve pin will also cause the marker to cycle. If it is loose and rattling, then the cup seal is probably already stripped. You’ll have to replace the cup seal. The valve pin should be just past finger tight inside the cup seal. If you over tighten it, you will warp the sealing surface of the cup seal. If you under tighten it, you risk it coming loose again and stripping. Newer cup seals can not come apart, they are molded together.

Inspect the filters. If they are breaking up inside the Piranha they can scar the Ram Air O-ring causing the Ram Air to leak and the Cup Seal to leak. If a filter is breaking up, knock the filter out completely.

B. Sear Pin or Trigger Pin Fall Out of trigger frame
Try installing the pin on the right side of the frame. Put the non-grooved section in first. This will give the pin new material to grab onto and should prevent it from slipping out again.

C. What does a Regulator do?
Liquid CO2 will provide an operating pressure that varies with temperature. 80F=969 psi. 70F=853psi. 60F=747psi. 50F=652psi. 40F=567psi. 30F=491psi. 20F=422psi. A regulator takes a higher input pressure and "regulates" the output pressure to be whatever the user adjusts it to be. In a low-pressure setup, the regulator is adjusted to give the minimum pressure that still gives 300fps shot speed.

A stock SRT or STS Piranha is designed to use a regulator without any other modifications. A regulator can be used on a low pressure Piranha with excellent results. Consider using an anti-siphon CO2 tank or even an expansion chamber on remote before your regulator. Never run an expansion chamber after a regulator.

D. What does an Expansion Chamber do?
The purpose of an expansion chamber is to prevent liquid CO2 from passing from the bottle straight into the marker. It does this in two ways. The first is by providing volume for liquid CO2 to expand into gas. Any place where a smaller cross-sectional line feeds into a larger cross-sectional line or chamber will promote CO2 to change phase from liquid to gas. The second way is by physically blocking the flow of liquid, using multiple chambers. An expansion chamber, in paintball terms, has a series of chambers with small openings between them, forcing a phase change from liquid to gas. A coiled remote may also act like an expansion chamber, as the long hose provides volume for expansion, and the coils tend to block free flowing liquid CO2.

The gas through fore grip that comes on the EXT, STS and Pro has a single chamber with an inner diameter of 7/16". In other words, it is not an expansion chamber.

E. STS Box said the gun would come with a turbo valve but it didn’t
We discontinued installing Turbo Valves in STS guns mid way through 1999. They were designed for use with compressed air or as part of a low pressure setup and some players had problems with them on CO2. By not including them with the guns, they worked better.

We stopped selling Turbo Valves with STS Piranhas but the packaging wasn't changed for the first run of guns that did not come with them. We gave out Turbo Valves for one year to players that bought STS's and asked for them. That program has been discontinued due to the recent large numbers of unsubstantiated requests.

F. Cocking Rod Flakes
The cocking rod hasn’t stayed oiled and Teflon is rubbing off. New cocking rods are anodized, so this should only happen with older gray cocking rods. However, this won’t cause a problem with the gun. It just looks ugly. Not a warranty item.

G. Piranha is inaccurate
Inaccuracy is something we can probably fix right now. The gun probably has broken paint or oil in the barrel, feed tube, elbow or hopper. You need to get all of that paint cleaned out almost perfectly or the gun will not shoot straight. If you break one ball, it is very easy to break a second ball if you don't clean it out completely. You can use water to clean the barrel and elbow and even the hopper if it is not electronic. If there is any film or grease in the barrel, hopper or elbow, the gun will not shoot straight.

If you gun is clean and dry and it is still inaccurate, you might have oil down the barrel. Again, this is something warm water and a battle swab squeegee can cure. If it is still giving you problems, try a different brand of paint. We think that Marballizer and Premium PMI paint work the best through all of the Piranhas. If your paint has dimples, it will rarely be accurate.

H. How many shots a second can the Piranha shoot?
Shots per second are all based upon how fast your fingers can move. You can test yourself with certain styles of chronographs, or you can devise some way to time yourself by recording the shots on your computer and measuring the length of time between shots.

Every Piranha ever made can cycle fast enough to easily get 20 shots a second, but your fingers can't move fast.

All PMI Piranhas are based upon the same internal system so one gun probably won't shoot much faster than another. It all depends on the shooter. Some players believe that an aluminum frame helps increase their personal rate of fire. However, an electronic eForce frame will help anyone shoot faster.

I. What should I do to cold weather-proof my Piranha?
On compressed air the PMI Piranha does work very well in the cold. On CO2 every gun will have some problems sometimes even after you get an expansion chamber to help it out. The simplest trick to playing in the cold is to shoot a little less paint than you're used to so the gun doesn't freeze and take your velocity down.

You can also go low pressure and your gun will work better in the cold because it is used to cycling at a lower pressure.

I haven't done many tests using a Piranha with a siphon tube, but that might solve cold weather problems. Using straight liquid should give you adequate velocity and cut down on your gun not cycling completely. You'll go through CO2 much faster though.

I have a 20-ounce tank I play with. When it gets cold I only fill it with 14 or 15 ounces to give the tank a little bit of natural expansion. I run compressed air sometimes so I don't really want an expansion chamber there.

If you run a regulator or an expansion chamber, think about installing an anti-siphon tube because liquid will make your regulator go all over the place no matter what time of year it is.

The best way to improve the cold weather performance in your Piranha is to shoot good high quality paint designed to shoot well in the cold - like Polar Ice. Decreasing the number of ball breaks in your gun will help dramatically.

J. What is the bore size on a stock Piranha?
The Piranha's bore size is a .690 which puts it just on the slightly large side of "medium" bore barrels. We have used Marballizer paint with great success through the Piranha.

If you're worried about paint breaking in your barrel, most paint breakage is as a direct result of paint and weather conditions. If paint is ever left in the cold even once, it will never be as good as it was before. Paint can not be stored in cardboard boxes without a sealed bag to protect it. The easiest way to reduce ball breakage is to take care of your paint.
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Old 09-27-2004, 04:45 PM #8
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K. What is interchangeable between a Spyder and the Piranha?

Barrel
Low pressure chamber
Valve
Forgrip
Cup seal
Velocity mainspring

Not bottomlines
Not most sightrails
Not trigger frames
Not bolts
Not hammer/striker o-rings.

L. What does a Ram Air do?
The Ram Air Chamber is an enhanced low pressure chamber. It is a holding area for gas so that during rapid fire, you don't experience any shoot down. The difference between a regular low pressure chamber, and a Ram Air Chamber, is that the Ram Air Chamber has a piston and spring in it to push a measured amount of air into the valve where as a low pressure chamber is just a holding area.

M. I want to switch to N2, what do I need to change?
The Piranha is designed to work on either CO2 or N2 without problems. N2 is sometimes also called Air, Compressed Air or High Pressure.

There is no need to change hose fittings, o-rings or type of oil you use when making the switch to N2.

The Piranha is designed to use @ 600 to 800 psi input pressure to work correctly. Gauges on N2 tanks are far from exact so the best way to tune your marker is to set the output pressure where your gun works the best.

The Piranha's bottomline is designed to accept all fixed output screw in style air systems. The only thing you might consider is switching to a drop forward to make a larger N2 tank more comfortable.

N. What is the difference between a vertical feed and a powerfeed?
Everybody has a preference when it comes to the feed on a paintball gun.

We only make two different styles - vertical feed and right handed powerfeed. I prefer the vertical feed because it allows me to shoot left or right handed without showing too much of my hopper. The powerfeed is easier to clean out when you break a ball though.

Some companies don't make a blow back vertical feed because they can't make the gun feed well enough. Their guns have too much blowback so the balls get shot back up into the hopper and the gun doesn't feed properly.

O. Where is my serial number?
It is located on the left-hand side of the marker by the Piranha logo and it starts with three letters. Some of the older G-1 Piranhas do not have a serial number.

P. Storm Frame Problems and Warranty
Brushfire Paintball is now the authorized repair center for all Mako Storm and Boo Yah electronic trigger frames. This is not a warranty repair center, so there will be a fee for repairs. PMI will continue to honor the one year warranty for Storm Frames sold on the Pro TS with Storm, but all other repairs should be referred directly to Dan at BFG Paintball. Storm Frames sold aftermarket do not qualify for the one year warranty.

PMI will take back only brand new Storm Frames for repair, but these will be sent to Brian (SDR) for the actual repair. They will not be fixed here, so the 24 hour turn around time does not apply.

Brushfire Paintball
Dan Hurda - 262-250-4234
bfg@brushfiregames.com

Q. Where can I find Additional Information?
Try www.pbnation.com/forumdis...orumid=133 or www.buypmi.com/downloads.html

XV. Evo Problems

The Evo quick instruction sheet can be downloaded for free here: http://www.buypmi.com/evo.pdf
Or the complete manual can be found here: http://www.buypmi.com/piranha_5.3.pdf

A. Evo Does Not Turn On
The On/Off button has to be held in for up to 5 seconds before it will turn on. The Evo will not fire right away after it is turned on, only the LCD will light up. You have to tap the On/Off Button a 2nd time to make the gun go “Live.” If the marker will not even turn on, then the board might need to be reset.

The E-force or EVO battery will slowly drain if left in the marker. If the EVO or E-force battery is ever allowed to drain completely then the frame might not turn on properly. The board will need to be reset before it will turn on and operate properly. To reset the board, first remove the two Phillips screws from the right side of the grip frame and remove the battery from the frame. Use one of the Allen wrenches provided with the marker and press it firmly on the E-force/EVO battery terminals (not on the battery itself) for a full 10 seconds. This will drain the capacitor and reset the board. Once the board is reset, install the battery and replace the grip panel screws.

Resetting the Evo only works if the marker is not turning on. That's it. It won't cure any other problems.

B. Evo or eForce Trigger Sticks
It is most likely the smallest burr on the trigger. Here's the 10-second fix:
Pull and hold the trigger back and to the left hard.
Pull and hold the trigger back and to the right hard.
Watch your problem go away as if by magic.
Don't worry about harming the trigger or the frame - you won't.

C. Evo or eForce Turns On but Clicks Instead of Firing
Do not reset the board. Resetting the board will not affect the marker in any way if it is already turning on properly. Make sure the marker is cocked. Make sure the battery actually charged. It has to be charged for a full 22 hours with the frame "off." I can't tell you how many guns we've seen returned that the user didn't actually charge it. Do not use a normal 9-volt battery in the Evo. It was designed to use the rechargeable battery that comes with the marker.

The marker is clicking because it is trying to fire, but it does not heave enough power in the battery to pull the sear off the hammer. This could be because there is too much pressure on the hammer from too heavy a main spring or because the battery is low. Make sure you don't have a high-tension spring (Red) in the gun or the velocity knob cranked in. The Evo doesn't need that to get 300 fps. Use a lower tension spring (White) and increase the DSR pressure to get velocity.

The reason you see more complaints of the click, shoot problem on the Evo is for two reasons. The Evo requires more juice because of the LCD and Eye and the Evo will drain batteries faster than a normal eForce. PMI does not recommend using a regular 9-volt battery in the Evo because they will traditionally not get enough shots before the frame just clicks instead of fires.

If you are still not getting enough shots per battery, make sure you are using the new Red Cup seal. That cup seal gives you more velocity and allows you to use a lower tension main spring and still get velocity. The lower tension main spring is what gives you more shots per battery.


D. Evo Will Not Switch to Full Auto or Burst Modes
It’s not supposed to. The Evo is semi-auto only.

E. Evo Eyes Fail
Broken Paint or dirt on the eyes will fool the eyes into believing that the eyes are seeing a paintball even when one is not in the chamber. Cleaning the eyes with a Q-Tip usually will fix the eyes. If the eyes are ever pulled out of the receiver body for a more thorough cleaning, then you must be very careful re-installing them. The black rubber bushing over the eye can get smashed and cover the eye. If this bushing is blocking the eye, then the eye will always think there is a ball there. A smashed bushing is not ruined. It can be fixed by carefully trimming it down to half of its original length with a razor blade. The original Evo bushing was much longer than the current version. The current shorter Eye Bushing is available under warranty (71709). You must also make sure the small white plugs for the eyes are plugged in securely or the eyes will not function.


F. Charging the eForce or Evo frame
eForce and Evo guns will not light up once it is plugged in. Do not charge with the marker on.



XVI. Warranty and Parts

A. Can I buy a parts kit from PMI?
We don't sell anything straight to the public, but you can find these at any paintball store. They should have these in stock or at least be able to order them for you from us.

The parts kit that comes with the gun comes with:
barrel plug
2 tank o-rings
barrel o-ring
ball retainer
cup seal
appropriate allen wrenches

Note – The parts kit that comes with the gun does not include a hammer o-ring.

The standard parts kit comes with:
1 front bolt o-ring
3 bolt o-rings
2 tank o-rings
1 hammer o-ring
1 barrel o-ring
1 ball retainer
1 cup seal

It costs about $9.95 retail.

The deluxe parts kit comes with:
1 front bolt o-ring
3 bolt o-rings
2 tank o-rings
1 hammer o-ring
1 barrel o-ring
2 ball retainer
1 cup seal
1 red stiff spring
1 valve pin spring
1 field strip pin

It costs about $12.95 retail.

B. How do I get parts under warranty?
Email PMI (piranha@pminetwork.com) or call 1-800-579-1633 with your full name, address, phone number, age, type and color of gun, where you bought it, part you need and the serial number and I'll send one to you. The serial number is on the left side of the gun by the Piranha logo. It starts with three letters.

Here is a sample of all the info I need:

Billy Ceranski
611 Monkey Highway
Chicago, IL 60656
847-233-
14 years old
STS - Black
Uncle Joe’s Sporting Goods
1 - Blue Spring
SMM 1453

C. I have a gun I can’t fix myself; can I send it back for repairs?

Please send the gun back to us so we can look through it and see what is going wrong with your gun. We will pay for all replacement parts as well as shipping back to you if it is still within the 1-year warranty. Do not mail the gun in without a RA number, it will take longer for us to process the gun and get it out to the repair facility. Call or email to get an RA number.

I need you to send the gun back to the address on the back of the manual with that RA number clearly printed on the outside of the box. Also include a note that states the problem so the tech can specifically try to recreate the problem.

D. Piranha manuals, even some older ones, are available for free online here:
buypmi.com/downloads.html
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Last edited by the.evil.tech : 05-18-2005 at 06:01 PM.
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XVII. How do I contact Piranha?
Phone – 800-579-1633
Fax – 847-233-9901
Email – piranha@pminetwork.com

Address – Never send in a marker without a RA number.
PMI
55 Howard Ave
Des Plaines IL 60656

Copyright - 2001 by John Dresser
Last Updated May 2005
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