[red4]

got mine in today and installed in about 10 min. i took some comparison readings before installation, original settings:

paint; ultra evil
barrel; .685 shaft 4
dwell; stock
noid; 2/7
lpr; 2 turns in from flush
basically stock settings, gun has between 30-35 cases thru it.

initial reading over the chrono: 297, 295, 289, 296, 294, 290...
readings after installation: 313, 310, 309, 312, 313, 321, 312...

no change in the original settings, just installation & shoot. not sure what the input pressure is now but over 1 full rotation to decrease the velocity was needed to get it back within legal limits. things i did notice, the sound signature went from the normal HIGH THWACK, to a muffled LP POP...very noticeable difference. still has about the same kick/barrel rise as it did before...which was very minimal. have not done an efficiency test, may do that when i play this weekend. as far as tweaking...right now its shooting marvelous so i will leave my settings as they are.

[RippedRippa]

I am having some trouble installing this... smh

[Soul06]

Originally Posted by RippedRippa

I am having some trouble installing this... smh

What the problem is? I'm sure we can walk you through it.

Installed mine last night. Gassed up and dry fired two shots. Cardinal Sin...I know. But just wanted to check for any leaks or installation problems. Am however good to go

[RippedRippa]

Originally Posted by Soul06

What the problem is? I'm sure we can walk you through it.

Installed mine last night. Gassed up and dry fired two shots. Cardinal Sin...I know. But just wanted to check for any leaks or installation problems. Am however good to go

Nevermind, I got it.

Thanks though.

As soon as it stops raining I'm going to go fire it.

[CAOL_98]

I got a quick chance to run only a pod through with my dart installed.
Velocity jumped up from 295+/- to around 315 +/-. Gun was using stock settings (dwell, solenoid adjusters, lpr) and stock barrel back w/ 16" tip. I had to readjust my inline about 1 turn out to get back into 300 range. The gun had a spongy feel to me. It wasn't the usual snap, but more of a cushioned feel to the shot. The sound was also different...more of a muffled sound signature as opposed to the usual pop. My ego 11 is also FAR from broken in...it has about 3 cases through it if I'm lucky.
This weekend I'm going to get another case through it, and probably tune it for closer to 290 +/- fps.
So far I'm impressed with one pod...I know it's not indicative of what a more thorough test could provide, but I couldn't wait intil Saturday to see what it felt like.

[CleanSweep]

Since people were asking for it, I'll put up my install pics.


My EGO patiently awaits the new parts...


The kit out of the box.


The bolt. The first thing you notice is how much heavier it is than the cure 3 and Hush.




The soft tip.


You can clearly see the weighted insert here.


Side by side comparison. From left to right: TechT Hush Bolt, Cure3, DART.


Just the tips.


Remove macro and reg.


Remove frame.


Remove FRM screw that holds the LPR in place.


Pull the LPR out. The valve will also fall out behind it. (not the valve pictured there)


Remove valve guide plug.


You can see the valve guide down in the slot. Take a "L" shaped allen wrench and push it out gently.


Comparison. New valve assembly on the left.




OIL not grease the o-rings and attach the Valve to the LPR assembly with the valve guide plug hole facing down. The Larger hole on the LPR should be facing down as well.
Shove it back in and line up the plug hole and the FRM screw hole on the LPR and reinstall screws/plugs.


install the bolt pin into the DART bolt.


Bolt fits perfectly, of course.


All done! I gassed her up and she fired with no problems or leaks.

Played an 8 hour game on Saturday and it worked as advertised, smother and quieter. No FPS increase since I already had the HUSH bolt installed.

[Ravenstylea2]

The new DART kit makes it another step closer up the ladder to a shooting like a BL Gixxer!!!!!!! Trolololol but das da trUUUUFFFFF!

[WildWayz]

Originally Posted by CleanSweep

Since people were asking for it, I'll put up my install pics.


My EGO patiently awaits the new parts...


The kit out of the box.


The bolt. The first thing you notice is how much heavier it is than the cure 3 and Hush.




The soft tip.


You can clearly see the weighted insert here.


Side by side comparison. From left to right: TechT Hush Bolt, Cure3, DART.


Just the tips.


Remove macro and reg.


Remove frame.


Remove FRM screw that holds the LPR in place.


Pull the LPR out. The valve will also fall out behind it. (not the valve pictured there)


Remove valve guide plug.


You can see the valve guide down in the slot. Take a "L" shaped allen wrench and push it out gently.


Comparison. New valve assembly on the left.




OIL not grease the o-rings and attach the Valve to the LPR assembly with the valve guide plug hole facing down. The Larger hole on the LPR should be facing down as well.
Shove it back in and line up the plug hole and the FRM screw hole on the LPR and reinstall screws/plugs.


install the bolt pin into the DART bolt.


Bolt fits perfectly, of course.


All done! I gassed her up and she fired with no problems or leaks.

Played an 8 hour game on Saturday and it worked as advertised, smother and quieter. No FPS increase since I already had the HUSH bolt installed.

A very good guide for those people having problems.

[blklight]

Originally Posted by CleanSweep

Since people were asking for it, I'll put up my install pics.

Great pics

[Brules]

OP needs to cut and paste that to page 1. Thanks for posting the how to!

[blklight]

Originally Posted by Brules

OP needs to cut and paste that to page 1. Thanks for posting the how to!

Ok, good idea.

[CleanSweep]

Originally Posted by Brules

OP needs to cut and paste that to page 1. Thanks for posting the how to!

Originally Posted by blklight

Great pics

Originally Posted by WildWayz

A very good guide for those people having problems.

You're welcome. I figured someone could find it useful.

[NightKreeper]

why oil and not grease on those orings?

[DuBullT]

Originally Posted by NightKreeper

why oil and not grease on those orings?

Because the Ego11 doesn't use the PE grease except for the SL3 Reg and a smart part of the LPR. The bolt uses oil!

[NightKreeper]

I know but he's talking about the valve and lpr body. those just sit in there forever and make a seal, I would think grease would be best. there's no risk of grease getting in the solenoid which is why you don't use it on the ram.

maybe I'm wrong.

[CleanSweep]

Originally Posted by NightKreeper

I know but he's talking about the valve and lpr body. those just sit in there forever and make a seal, I would think grease would be best. there's no risk of grease getting in the solenoid which is why you don't use it on the ram.

maybe I'm wrong.

Because the Ego 11 manual said so. Taken from page 66:

Lubricate both of the o-rings on the Valve Guide with
Eclipse Oil (see figure 24g). Lubricate the o-rings on
the LPR Body with Eclipse Oil (see figure 24h).

My guess would be that excess grease can come off the assembly as it is being reinserted and still be blown into the rammer area and to the bolt through the valve guide and muck everything up.

[blklight]

Originally Posted by NightKreeper

I would think grease would be best. there's no risk of grease getting in the solenoid which is why you don't use it on the ram.

Originally Posted by CleanSweep

Because the Ego 11 manual said so.

Yes.

Read and follow the manual. No guess work needed.

[bushymaster2000]

Just out of curiosity, But why no ramp on the top of the bolt like Cure bolts and such short ball detent relief cuts on the sides?

[CleanSweep]

Originally Posted by bushymaster2000

Just out of curiosity, But why no ramp on the top of the bolt like Cure bolts and such short ball detent relief cuts on the sides?

It does have a ramp on the top of the bolt. Bad angles in the picture prevent you from seeing it. It also has a soft tip right in front of the orings, negating the need for longer relief cuts.

[Alvecchio]

Originally Posted by NightKreeper

I know but he's talking about the valve and lpr body. those just sit in there forever and make a seal, I would think grease would be best. there's no risk of grease getting in the solenoid which is why you don't use it on the ram.

maybe I'm wrong.

Actually you don't use grease on the ram because oil is better suited for what the ram is trying to do. Grease has more "stiction" if you will, than oil. Oil allows the rammer to reliably accelerate faster in order to achieve the inertia needed to open to valve consistently.

Grease is used on the parts like the lpr and hpr pistons because those do not need to accelerate to operate correctly. Oil will work just fine on the static orings in the gun.

[turnburglar]

Just curious :

Has anyone thought to use a softer valve spring?

I noticed when cleaning my ego that the valve spring is fairly stiff, and replacing or modifying it might allow the marker to run at a lower lpr pressure. The catch is that you cant go too soft otherwise the valve wont seal fast enough on the rebound. But its a trick some users did on their angels back in the day.

I'm picking up a dart kit hoping for softer less cannon like ego, and thought this theory might help aswell.