[Kazer]

Blaze keeps it frosty for sure nice video man.

[Spazdoc]

Originally Posted by NJEmortal

Thanks for doing that. Looks reassuring that we also get a little better efficiency out if gun in addition to improving the feel.

BTW, I was just out at Battlecreek with my brothers, and it was a GREAT woodsball field (did not play the PSP layout at the time).

[Soul06]

Originally Posted by DiRtDoGg

MY noid Setting is your typical 2-7. The LPR was 1.5 turns in from flush.. And all the board settings are stock settings

A bit high on the LPR aren't you? Stock is 2 turns in. Lowering the LPR would be turning it further in.

[BELOWZERO]

Originally Posted by Soul06

A bit high on the LPR aren't you? Stock is 2 turns in. Lowering the LPR would be turning it further in.

when i had my csl i ran my lpr at 3 and a quarter and it was smooooth

[Soul06]

Originally Posted by BELOWZERO

when i had my csl i ran my lpr at 3 and a quarter and it was smooooth

I'm at 2 or 2 1/2. Can't remember which. When I get the kit I will try to crank it to where you had yours

[turnburglar]

The way to properly set LPR and dwell isn't that hard to do. Should only take 10 minutes with a chrono and a pod of paint.

Install kit.

Adjust hpr to desired velocity.

Turn lpr in until velocity drops OR becomes inconsistent. Then turn lpr back out until velocity stabalizes. If you can get it to where an 1/8th of a turn gets negative results then that is the lowest possible lpr. Which is ideal for smoothness.

Next is dwell. Same principles. Turn down until velocity drops or becomes inconsistent. Then bump back up a .5 or 1 Ms. Dwell is the final step and adds a hair more smoothness and should decrease the sound signature a little.

If your velocity is still consistent these settings are the most optimal settings for YOUR gun. It will be the smoothest and most effecient that it can get. I'm curious what optimal settings people will get with the DART kit as opposed to a stock gun.

[Soul06]

Thanks. But we weren't saying we didn't know HOW to do it lol
We were just curious to see what others had.

[Spazdoc]

So installed the DART and ran out to practice. Did not make any changed on HPR, LPR, or dwell. I double checked that things were installed correctly because of some people installing it wrong. Paint was breaking a bit due to cool temps.

I put the gun over a chronology and did not notice any change in sound signature, kick, or velocity. I was shooting 280-290 tell weeks ago, now 270's. I checked LPR (2 turns in), checked dwell (14.5), and solenoid settings (4 rear, 7 front), and reset the HPR (turn all the way in, back out 4 turns, then adjust to get 280-290 fps). I bad batch of 2-star that would break every 5-10 balls, switched out to rec ball, but still breaking at least one per pod or so.

Paint was about 0.684-0.686 on the ball sizer, tried using 0.681 and 0.685 backs with Fuse tip.

I took the gun apart to the recheck valve and stem position, which were correct. Brass insert on bolt was also correct.

So, other people were also chopping, but with DART I did not notice any changes. I admit that the paint was different from one week to next, but 2 star each time. Only other thing to do is rebuild the HPR and LPR.

Any thoughts?

[Soul06]

Originally Posted by Spazdoc

So installed the DART and ran out to practice. Did not make any changed on HPR, LPR, or dwell. I double checked that things were installed correctly because of some people installing it wrong. Paint was breaking a bit due to cool temps.

I put the gun over a chronology and did not notice any change in sound signature, kick, or velocity. I was shooting 280-290 tell weeks ago, now 270's. I checked LPR (2 turns in), checked dwell (14.5), and solenoid settings (4 rear, 7 front), and reset the HPR (turn all the way in, back out 4 turns, then adjust to get 280-290 fps). I bad batch of 2-star that would break every 5-10 balls, switched out to rec ball, but still breaking at least one per pod or so.

Paint was about 0.684-0.686 on the ball sizer, tried using 0.681 and 0.685 backs with Fuse tip.

I took the gun apart to the recheck valve and stem position, which were correct. Brass insert on bolt was also correct.

So, other people were also chopping, but with DART I did notice any changes. I admit that the paint was different from one week to next, but 2 star each time. Only other thing to do is rebuild the HPR and LPR.

Any thoughts?

Perhaps you may be due for an HPR/LPR cleaning *shrugs*

[BELOWZERO]

Originally Posted by Spazdoc

So installed the DART and ran out to practice. Did not make any changed on HPR, LPR, or dwell. I double checked that things were installed correctly because of some people installing it wrong. Paint was breaking a bit due to cool temps.

I put the gun over a chronology and did not notice any change in sound signature, kick, or velocity. I was shooting 280-290 tell weeks ago, now 270's. I checked LPR (2 turns in), checked dwell (14.5), and solenoid settings (4 rear, 7 front), and reset the HPR (turn all the way in, back out 4 turns, then adjust to get 280-290 fps). I bad batch of 2-star that would break every 5-10 balls, switched out to rec ball, but still breaking at least one per pod or so.

Paint was about 0.684-0.686 on the ball sizer, tried using 0.681 and 0.685 backs with Fuse tip.

I took the gun apart to the recheck valve and stem position, which were correct. Brass insert on bolt was also correct.

So, other people were also chopping, but with DART I did notice any changes. I admit that the paint was different from one week to next, but 2 star each time. Only other thing to do is rebuild the HPR and LPR.

Any thoughts?

dude every gun at the my field today was breaking paint.....DM, G6rs,luxes, egos, and my geo3...not a fun time i was shooting gi 1 and 2 and 3 star that had been sitting out for like 1 hour in the cold........BLENDERS every where..onlything i found to help was over boring like a mother....paint was about a 683 and i was using a 689 and it seemed to help some but not a whole lot

[Spazdoc]

Originally Posted by Soul06

Perhaps you may be due for an HPR/LPR cleaning *shrugs*

I cleaned it beforehand, and the HPR just had the inline regulator adjuster replaced at MAO. I rebuilt the regs last night with new orings, and will take to the field next week. Perhaps I should do a before/after just to be sure, though. The only thing that it is a pain to do it at the field.

[TwistedFreak (Banned)]

I will Paypal someone $10 to make a video installing the whole kit.

[WildWayz]

Originally Posted by TwistedFreak

I will Paypal someone $10 to make a video installing the whole kit.

It really isn't hard - just follow the instructions and use your Ego manual too.
Never owned an Ego before and got the kit a few days after getting my Ego-S and Whammo did it first time.

[tniz]

If you watch the strip down/rebuild video by Mr. Wood, he takes out the valve guide. Might be of a little help

[TwistedFreak (Banned)]

So i just got done installing mine and it shoots/sounds great! love it

[TwistedFreak (Banned)]

The shot sounds more like a click now instead of like a BLOOMINGCARLZANDERRRR!!!....

[Stan6543]

Dang 2 more pods that's sweet

[TwistedFreak (Banned)]

I feel like my 11 is shooting smoother than my 2.1 now. I also did the solenoid adjustment 1-7. The geo is pretty new. And i did send my bolt into pooty

[RippedRippa]

This kit is the real deal! Love it!

[pbmasta1]

Originally Posted by Shootingropes

idiots.

obvious photoshop isn't that obvious?

It isn't shopped. there is a vid of the guy playing with it

[Zman9398]

Probably stupid question but does it work with any other ego?