[Bigjoe11]

Does anyone know of a way to slot a spyder's striker withoit a dremal? Or any way to get it done for cheap? I don't feel like paying $50 for a dremal when I paid $30 for the gun. I've got a drill and pretty much everything else the everage joe would have in his garage.

[gamer565]

Got a grinder? That would will work.

The striker are made of a harden steel, using a drill and bit would take forever.

[cpt_crunch]

You can drill a series of holes into the top and then if you're really good you can drill in from the face. Then just use files and chisels to remove the rest. You might also try purchasing some larger dremel tools and putting them into your drill.

Drill bits probably will take a very long time but a grinder may not get the profile you want

[Bigjoe11]

Thanks for the input, it seems that the striker is harder than my drill bits.... but, I found a dremel for $22 on ebay, so i think that will be worth it.

[2nwyka]

Get a proper-sized three or four-flute endmill, put it in your drillpress (or mount the drill in a vice over a small table. Set the drillpress to a medium-high speed. Clamp a rip fence (small, straigt piece of wood) to the table, and feed the striker through the endmill until it's at the right length.
That's a quick and dirty way to do it, if you don't have a mill.
Noah

[Bigjoe11]

Here's what I got:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-100-Piec...item45fbb11065
is comes with 100 bits, 25 are cutting wheels, 20 are diamond burr bits, but only 1 is a cutting bit. Which is the best to use?

[jonotwist]

hard to tell but nothing in that kit seems to stand out

Originally Posted by 2nwyka

Get a proper-sized three or four-flute endmill, put it in your drillpress (or mount the drill in a vice over a small table. Set the drillpress to a medium-high speed. Clamp a rip fence (small, straigt piece of wood) to the table, and feed the striker through the endmill until it's at the right length.
That's a quick and dirty way to do it, if you don't have a mill.
Noah

this is your best bet, that or find a machinist.

[extrabonez]

You can do it with the cutting wheels. Just gotta be careful and go slow, let the disc do the work, you will probably go through quite a few though. Just take your time and once you get the slot made, just try to sand the edges smooth. hold the striker in a vice or something and use the dremel in your hand so that the striker doesn't roll and because it is round, the dremel may want to ride around, so keep it tight in your hand. It will make a ton of sparks too, so make sure you are away from anything flammable.

[theblindchicken]

Those brown cutting discs will work.. but they wear out very quickly. Also, when they get close to fully wearing out, the tend to break apart. Your best bet when using a dremel is to get the black carbide cutting discs.

[Bigjoe11]

Ok, cutting disks it is then! When I cut, should I just keep the wheel spinning at an angle perpendiculer to me to be safe from the shards?

[theblindchicken]

They don't hurt if they hit you.. but i'd certainly be anywhere but the downstream of the cutting wheel due to all of the sparks. You'll also find that it is much easier to cut in a relatively straight line when being perpendicular to the striker as well.

Like mentioned previously, keep a firm grip on the dremel because it will want to lock up and buck its way out of the slot you are creating.

[nerve2030]

Originally Posted by 2nwyka

Get a proper-sized three or four-flute endmill, put it in your drillpress (or mount the drill in a vice over a small table. Set the drillpress to a medium-high speed. Clamp a rip fence (small, straigt piece of wood) to the table, and feed the striker through the endmill until it's at the right length.
That's a quick and dirty way to do it, if you don't have a mill.
Noah

IF YOU VALUE YOUR FINGERS AND OR EYES DONT DO THIS

problems with this idea
1 you will need a carbide EM that will cost about 20
2 a drill press spindle does not have the proper bearings to handle lateral loading
3 drill press spindle bearings have too much run out
4 drill chucks are NOT end mill holders even if you have a mill you should NEVER use a drill chuck to hold an endmill
5 if you have too much runout with a carbide EM it can and will shatter from the shock loading sending slivers of carbide in all directions.

Drill presses are for drilling only you should never attempt to "mill" with them you will get terrible results and can cause harm to you and your tools.

As for actually machining the slot, it could be done but when milling hardened steel you have to run flood coolant using carbide end mills at a SLOW rpm. if you dont have a proper mill to do this it would be best to grind it with a dremmel.

[Bigjoe11]

Thanks for the warning, good thing I got the dremel.

[cpt_crunch]

wear some safety glasses

[Bigjoe11]

I will, along with a dust mask and maybe a vacuum to remove the dust.

[RabidHobo]

Originally Posted by nerve2030

IF YOU VALUE YOUR FINGERS AND OR EYES DONT DO THIS

problems with this idea
1 you will need a carbide EM that will cost about 20
2 a drill press spindle does not have the proper bearings to handle lateral loading
3 drill press spindle bearings have too much run out
4 drill chucks are NOT end mill holders even if you have a mill you should NEVER use a drill chuck to hold an endmill
5 if you have too much runout with a carbide EM it can and will shatter from the shock loading sending slivers of carbide in all directions.

Drill presses are for drilling only you should never attempt to "mill" with them you will get terrible results and can cause harm to you and your tools.

As for actually machining the slot, it could be done but when milling hardened steel you have to run flood coolant using carbide end mills at a SLOW rpm. if you dont have a proper mill to do this it would be best to grind it with a dremmel.

It could be done with a HSS EM, but I doubt the drill could run 150 rpm. If you're slotting a hammer I can't imagine the run out is going to be a big deal. Most likely the hammer is only going to be case hardened, so the inside will cut like butter.

[Bigjoe11]

Originally Posted by RabidHobo

It could be done with a HSS EM, but I doubt the drill could run 150 rpm. If you're slotting a hammer I can't imagine the run out is going to be a big deal. Most likely the hammer is only going to be case hardened, so the inside will cut like butter.

I finished it with a dremel, unfortunately, the inside was not any softer than the outside. 5 cutting disks, 6 grinding bits, and 4 sanding bits later and the striker was done. I'd say 10-12 hours of work in all. I think the cutting disks were the most effective by far.

[theblindchicken]

Originally Posted by Bigjoe11

I finished it with a dremel, unfortunately, the inside was not any softer than the outside. 5 cutting disks, 6 grinding bits, and 4 sanding bits later and the striker was done. I'd say 10-12 hours of work in all. I think the cutting disks were the most effective by far.

5 discs?? When I slotted my striker, it only took me the most of 2 discs. What discs were you using? Mine were the black fiberglass reinforced discs.

[Bigjoe11]

None of them shattered, but they wore down and refused to cut after a while. They were the cheap brittle brown ones that came in that kit.

[theblindchicken]

Ahh. Yeah, those don't last very long at all. Your kit didn't include any of the black reinforced cutting discs?

[Bigjoe11]

Nope, unfortunately.