Shaken but not Stirred - My mini by Christian P

Christian P · 09-30-2012, 09:52 PM

I just bought Errakus's black and olive v3 mini. It's now being re-christened as "Shaken but not Stirred" with some changes...

Mods:
- Lurker Bolt
- Virtue grips
- CP Rake Trigger
- Green Virtue Eyes

Add ons:
- Empre Steel 45/3000 tank
- Freak kit with carbon fibre front
- Proto Primo Hopper

I'm trying to make this gun small and light. I get hit in the marker most of the time, sticking out a side of a bunker. A carbon fibre tank doesn't matter to me as much since I play a smaller metal 45/3000 Empire tank already. However I'd look at a smaller tanks, as long as I can get 500 to 1000 shots out of a compressed air tank. Any suggestions for a small tank?

Also the barrel is something I'm playing with. I have the stock but have a black carbon fibre 14" that's a .689 diameter bore. I know that I can get a Freak kit with a carbon fibre front, but I'm going to try the CP barrel since it's light and works well. What is the lightest and most accurate barrel that you have played with your mini?

The hopper is something I'm new to since I usually only play gravity fed hoppers. I have a Primo that I got for $15 but a buddy is letting me try his Halo v35 hopper. Do you need a electronic hopper to keep up with a mini? Anyone have any lighter hopper sugguestions? I'm not looking to carry a 5 pound brick on top of a 3 pound marker.

I'll post pics from Oct 6th Oktober-ball at Urban Assault. This will be the first time I get to play her in competition. Thanks for discussing your mini and your experences.

**Lurker27** · 09-30-2012, 10:13 PM

If you can find an old school revvy it would be the lightest fast hopper available.

I believe they're re-releasing them as well.

Christian P · 09-30-2012, 10:26 PM

Awesome news. thanks!

masterofTHUMBS · 09-30-2012, 11:01 PM

An electric hopper is recommended. You can technically use a gravity fed one since the eyes are pretty good about not chopping. Try to find a used halo or vlocity for cheap.

paintballpunk23 · 10-01-2012, 12:00 AM

I love the feel of 45/45 tanks on the mini for something small and light, barrels are suggestive I like my 14" ul's though. Also the halo is a brick compared to most hoppers out there. I have a couple as back up to my rotor.

[NA]WARLORD · 10-01-2012, 12:02 AM

If you want an old-school Viewloader Revolution, pm me. I have one that has the the Pre Brass Eagle shells (same material as the Halo Too's), the upgraded JMJ Impeller and the X Board. It feeds about 10-13 bps. To answer your queston, yes, you should get a good electro hopper to keep up, gravity feds don't cut it. Even though your gun has eyes, it wont fire unless there's a ball in the chamber (unless you turn the eye's off) and that could be crucial in most situations. Get the fastest loader/hopper you can afford. Used Halo's run about 40.00. I have a VL Revvy X, a Halo Too and a Rotor. I love my Rotor, but my Halo gets the job done just as well.

As for a tank, if you like small get the 45/4500. Lots of guys around me use them, I prefer a slightly bigger tank myself (less trips to the air station

)

As for barrels, I prefer to bore match (matching ball to bore), but others here prefer to underbore ( using smaller bore to larger size ball) Both will give you efficiency underboring being the best, but I prefer a little more accuracy and when I underbore, my balls are all over the place. I use a Freak (Smart Parts) but if you want a good carbon fiber barrel try the Deadlywinds Fibur. It takes Freak inserts and lots of people swear by them. I like a little weight to my barrel to help reduce barrel jump on long strings. There is no one barrel that makes the gun more accurate. The formula for accuracy is:

Consistent reg (tank & gun)
Good paint to bore match
fresh quality paint

Get a small and medium bore barrel like a .679 and a .685 and you should do just fine. I believe Lurker sells them both for about 80.00, same price as CP's or you could get the 2 piece CP's, buy 1 tip and 2 backs for a little more.

Pson · 10-01-2012, 07:13 AM

Well, I have a 14" stiffi .693 for you as well as a halo V35 that is yours.

SNAKESNIPER (Banned) · 10-01-2012, 07:57 AM

paint to bore match will be inconsistent as hell, especially with your Lurker bolt. Underbore at least as low as .682 and you'll see better consistency.

[NA]WARLORD · 10-01-2012, 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SNAKESNIPER

paint to bore match will be inconsistent as hell, especially with your Lurker bolt. Underbore at least as low as .682 and you'll see better consistency.

Maybe in Canada, but here in Fl, I got 9 pods, 2 Rotors off a 4200 fill with a +/- 3 in the 270's most of the weekend (I say most as we had to drop the velocity to 250 @ night

). I bore matched the paint to .682 in 45% humidity - 90*, so maybe it swelled, maybe not, but it shot well all weekend.

dtyrrell · 10-01-2012, 05:21 PM

I donno about anyone else but I wouldn't shoot a pump gun without an electronic hopper...

As for barrels I like my CP 2 piece but these boys are right you need to underbore I've been rocking a .685 and even that isn't doing the trick...

bluesboyk3 · 10-04-2012, 02:37 AM

lots of good posts up there, and yes, i would go with a rotor or a used vlocity hopper. I tested my mini using the empire sound activated revvy and although it ran without chopping a paintball, it didn't keep up with my finger even in the semi mode as you can see here toward the end of the vid:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WT0fu-I6CkU

Also one time at my field, we were using gravity feed against rentals and man, you have to do a lot of shake and bake. I have a rotor now and use my vlocity as a backup since they are out of production.

WP2015 · 10-04-2012, 06:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dtyrrell

I donno about anyone else but I wouldn't shoot a pump gun without an electronic hopper...

incognito-z · 10-04-2012, 10:52 PM

Yeah... last I heard, Minis weren't pumps.

On a completely unrelated note, could you drill a Mini to be a pump? Maybe an interface with the board that only allows one shot every time a magnet is touched (on the pump rod?). I don't know. Seems impossible, but who knows.

Christian P · 10-04-2012, 11:02 PM

So I'm going to test a Tamaco vs Primo vs a Halo V35 and see if I can "walk" my fingers faster than the hopper.

[NA]WARLORD · 10-04-2012, 11:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluesboyk3

I tested my mini using the empire sound activated revvy and although it ran without chopping a paintball, it didn't keep up with my finger even in the semi mode as you can see here toward the end of the vid:

You also have to remember that the Empire Reloader and the Revy are agitated gravity fed loaders not force fed loaders like the Halo's Rotor's etc. I was able to out shoot a Revy XBoard on a model-98 years ago, they only feed 10 bps average, 13 peak, so I wouldn't use anything less then a Halo Too on a Mini/Axe etc.

bluesboyk3 · 10-05-2012, 03:32 AM

^^ yup

Christian P · 10-05-2012, 07:29 AM

So I went and got the Freak kit for the mini. I'm getting two fronts, a carbon fibre front that makes the barrel 14" long and a metal tear drop all American design at 10". I've been told the freak inserts are the only part that touches the ball. Do you know if a difference in accuracy be noticed with either front?

SNAKESNIPER (Banned) · 10-05-2012, 12:24 PM

There are no differences in accuracy with any barrel front or back. Your insert's bore size will cause the only differences in shot, which will be your consistency (how consistent the FPS of your shots is), and efficiency (how much air is used up per shot/how many pods can be shot before shootdown becomes noticeable). Underboring by around .003 will give you the best mix of consistency and efficiency.

Christian P · 10-08-2012, 09:02 PM

~UPDATE 10/6 ~

I went light on this mini and got a 45/4500 carbon fibre tank (thanks for the hookup John) and a 12" freak kit with a v-max loader. Without balls, the marker clocks in at 3 pounds 8 ounces at the current setup.

It's super easy to tuck into the ground or behind the bunker. I now see that speed to a bunker and getting the angles mean that you do or don't get the chance for the shot. The mini can hit 3 to 4 shots off in a second by walking the trigger; the rake trigger is super easy to walk.

Everything to maintain this marker is simple in design. The o-ring kit and the maintenance kit are nice to keep this marker at top spec. I shoot about a case of paint for 5 hours of fun. However I can dump 500 rounds in one game when playing the bunker in woodsball. For speedball, I'm averaging 200 rounds. We also had 12 to 15 members a team so there were plenty of targets.

I'm still undecided on the barrel. I have the investment in the freak kit so no matter what I'm going that route. I'm going to get a shorter barrel (8-9") and try that. I'm also interested in a cf front or maybe a deadly wind 12-14" that takes freak insets. The current front is alright but is on loan and won't be here after this year. I like the freak underbore ability for best accuracy.

Cheers to the mini, it's a great marker.

SNAKESNIPER (Banned) · 10-08-2012, 09:31 PM

Apart from the V-Max, nice gun.

Obviously I'll recommend the Lurker barrels, they're amazing.

YeloSno · 10-08-2012, 09:44 PM

I'd look into stainless steel or brass inserts. They have a smoother bore and are usually lend themselves to tiny bonuses like reduction in paint breakage and marginally better consistency/accuracy.

Although if you want to go light and have a better barrel altogether, look into these 3 options.

1. Critical 100G Barrel kit. Long, high quality control bores. Well ported tip.

2. Deadlywind Fibur. Like a freak, but 1 piece and entirely made of carbon fiber. Had 4 now, not bad at all.

3. Lurker Eigenbarrel. Lightest 1 piece around. Best control bore of all paintball barrels and front bore is a .685 instead of a .700 so there are some serious efficiency and consistency gains to be had from this barrel.