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Old 09-16-2012, 02:33 PM #1765
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What's your input pressure? If its too low nothing will happen.
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Old 09-16-2012, 03:03 PM #1766
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mav View Post
Posted by Captain Carnage -


O-RING TOLERANCES

It is important to get your o-ring tolerances right because it will help to decrease friction on the bolt. Less friction means the air has less force to push against (especially at the initial moment of the air beginning to act on the bolt). Friction due to bad tolerances is the number one cause of FSDO in spool valve guns.

To test your tolerances, take the entire bolt assembly out of the gun. Then remove the sleeve and guide. At this point you will want to move the bolt back and forth in the can (while it is lubed). If the two pieces don't slide very easily your o-rings tolerances are too tight. Itís a good rule of thumb that if you pick up the can while the bolt is in it and tip it so the bolt is facing up, the bolt should slide down inside the can by the force of gravity. The same rule applies to the guide in the bolt and the bolt in the sleeve. Also if the parts don't slide smoothly, I.E. there is some stick or vibration then the tolerances could be better. If your tolerances arenít like this you should find the o-rings that are the cause of the excess friction and replace them. Even though o-rings are listed as say 17/70 they are all a little different. The best way to find a good o-ring is to take all of your 17/70s and place them on a dowel rod or something similar that they can hang off and if you look very closely while they are hanging side by side you will see that some are slightly larger than the others. Take the larger ones and place them in the can. Then repeat the tolerance test. Do this until you find the best fitting o-rings you have. For the guide and bolt sail o-rings you will want to use the smaller o-rings. It is possible that the tolerances will be too loose and cause a leak or pneumatic lockout, so keep that in mind. Doing this in conjunction with the spring mod is the best way to reduce dwell and pressure while increasing efficiency.
Ok, back and did all of this ^. Leak is gone, but even with the techt sprung bolt, the lowest dwell I can still attain is 13 with a pressure just below 200, shooting around 285. If I put the dwell any lower the gun doesn't cycle.

Overall, I'm just not happy with the efficiency since even after all of this I'm only getting a hopper and 3 pods. Not even enough for one game. I'm looking for an adj bolt guide and a lp can for my sft.

Any suggestions? Just want to get the greatest efficiency out of this.
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Old 09-19-2012, 06:58 PM #1767
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Hey guys, I've got a 2003 SFT Shocker that I love to play around with. This thing has shot like sex every time until this weekend when I blew an oring off the bolt... after replacing the o-ring the marker started leaking bad through the trigger frame (seems like a solenoid issue).

What I want to do is rebuild the solenoid, (it is almost 10 years old... so this is probably in order), replacing the gaskets and o-rings inside... I've got the instructions from ZDS paintball, and all the tools; but I can't find the sizes for all the o-rings and gaskets... does anyone here know the sizes so I can order some replacements?

Or am I better off dropping $70 bucks on a new 'noid?

Also, if I do order a new 'noid... which one would it be? I see that ASP has like 7 or 8 different humphrey 'noids... which one goes to the '03 shocker?

Last edited by Dan0102 : 09-19-2012 at 07:02 PM.
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Old 10-02-2012, 07:04 AM #1768
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dynasty shocker w/ nox sprung bolt, leaking out of the bolt guide hole, changed some orings and lubed up, any suggestions??
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Old 10-02-2012, 11:16 AM #1769
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Rear bolt guide tip oring, outer rear sleeve oring or inner sleeve oring. Sometimes you can hold your thumb over the hole while airing up and it will stop that leak.
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Old 10-07-2012, 03:58 PM #1770
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Trigger return spring for nxt. Where might I find something to fit? The spring out of an ink pen is fat. Any ideas out there?
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Old 10-07-2012, 04:18 PM #1771
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detent spring works too, but is much stiffer. I bit the bullet and found a stock one in the bst. Feels much better than any pen spring.
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Old 10-09-2012, 04:19 PM #1772
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I have my friend's 09 Shocker NXT and we can't seem to solve the shot velocity inconsistency. There is no pressure loss anywhere, but 4/5 shots are fall 15ft in front of us. He has a few upgrades on it:
- Virtue board
- TechT enertia bolt
- Dye Hyper 3 reg and Dye ASA

Anyone know the issue? I have all the stock parts if necessary.
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Old 10-09-2012, 04:40 PM #1773
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This could be a number of things. First off, put the board at stock settings to eliminate that possible issue.

Bolt sail oring.
Inner sleeve oring (can be checked by placing thumb over bolt guide hole and firing)
Your rear can orings

Check an make sure the spring is not binding anywhere. Clean your reg.
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Old 10-09-2012, 05:25 PM #1774
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Well first try a new battery. Then if thats not it go to the spring mod thread and read the section about oring tollerances and go from there.
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Old 10-09-2012, 11:28 PM #1775
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Virtue OLED Eye Issue?

Hi,

I am running a Virtue OLED board with a SFT reflective eye. I have the board set to the reflective eye setting. When I turn the marker on, the screen reads "Reload". However when I stick my finger in the breech the eye does not recognize that the breech is full. I turned the settings to break beam just to see what the read out would be and the screen read "Eye Error". I am assuming the reflective eye is working seeing as the board recognized the difference between the reflective and break beam eyes. Does anyone have any suggestions?

On a side note, does anyone have some general settings for a Shocker running a reflective eye, Virtue OLED board, and a bolt kit consisting of a Sprung Tech T bolt, a New Designs can, a delrin bolt sleeve, and a Hybrid bolt guide? I checked the settings thread but didn't find too many similar set ups.

Thanks for any help,

Nik
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Old 10-10-2012, 12:27 AM #1776
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Are you sure your eye ribbon is working and installed properly? Silver side away from the body.
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Old 10-10-2012, 08:31 AM #1777
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Avoid the tech t bolt
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Old 10-10-2012, 01:55 PM #1778
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I think I have the eye problem figured out. Yes I am an idiot and installed the eye ribbon up side down.

I don't mean to hijack this thread but what is the matter with the Tech T bolts? Poor build quality/inefficient/etc?
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Old 10-10-2012, 03:45 PM #1779
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Its just an HE clone with a slight polish and a spring that is just sub par to rhino's. The techt spring is much better than NDZ's spring though. But I've had good experience with my techt bolt others have had issues getting it to work at all.
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Old 10-10-2012, 05:37 PM #1780
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Well I got it second hand and am trying it over my stock bolt so I'll probably just run it unless it gives me problems. However I did air up the gun and it cycled rather smoothly from what I can tell with the bolt in it. We'll find out though I suppose. Would a spring upgrade be the general consensus though as far as running a Tech T bolt then?
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Old 10-10-2012, 05:45 PM #1781
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If you have both spacers in with it then just leave the spring. If you dont have the spacers have it bored out for a rhino spring. Rhino's spring won't fit without boring the bolt.
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Old 10-10-2012, 05:49 PM #1782
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Spacers? When I received the bolt it came as a spring and a bolt. Am I missing something?

Also now I am trying to reassemble my gun and it seems the skinny screws that connect the noid to the gun are "too short" to hold the noid to the manifold. The screws thread in with the noid off of the gun however when I put the noid back on the gun they seem to not have enough length to clear the noid and screw in to the manifold. I am assuming the manifold may be stripped up towards the top of the threads and I will have to purchase a new one. Any Ideas?
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Old 10-10-2012, 06:02 PM #1783
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Yes your missing these 2 small white spacers. They make the spring stiffer by compressing it more.



Are you sure the wider end of the screws are touching down on the noid and not the upper board? If the screws are seated right and it's still not tightening then the manifold is most likely stripped and needs to be replaced.
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Old 10-10-2012, 06:06 PM #1784
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It would seem as though I am spacerless then. Does the bolt necessarily need the spacers to function or will the spacers just help me to drop my dwell even lower and gain some efficiency? My main concern is FSDO more or less. So unless that is effected much I think I should be all right. And I suppose new manifold time it is then. Thanks for all the help thus far.
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Old 10-10-2012, 06:43 PM #1785
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No they're not needed just the spring realy isn't stiff enough without them to realy get any of the gains the spring mod provides. You might get lucky if you call up techt and ask if they have any.
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