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Old 10-02-2012, 06:53 AM #148
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Dave at Rallispec is one of the most awesome guys to deal with when it comes to subies.

The shop is kind of weird when you first roll up to it (I thought I was lost) since its in an industrial park with trains and **** everywhere, but him and the woman that works the front desk (his girlfriend/wife?) are the best.
Their husky puppy that hangs out out front is pretty awesome too
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Old 10-02-2012, 08:50 AM #149
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Scott: want to do a 2 day block drop in and build?
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Old 10-02-2012, 09:23 AM #150
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Eh, unless you get heads with it no, cause other wise we will have to get your heads machined, ALSO plan on doing head studs while your at it. and get some BC cams.
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Old 10-02-2012, 09:40 AM #151
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I'd skip the BC cams and get GSC S2s.

But I would also skip and head work, including cams unless you were looking to make big power.
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Old 10-02-2012, 09:55 AM #152
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heads need to be milled either way, i wont put old heads on a fresh block with out "flatening" them first Also being that it ran low on oil you have no idea what shape the cam journals are in either.

IMO long block would be the way to go.
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:16 AM #153
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I'd just get a new (used) engine for $3500 :/

Part out stuff from the old engine to mitigate some expenses. Turbo and intercooler are worth decent money.
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:20 AM #154
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Hi Corey

The metal particles and the noise are indicative of a bearing failure of some type and possibly spun rod bearing. The issue will probably be how much damage may have been done by the circulating metal particles as this can damage camshaft and cam journal surfaces as well as score cylinder walls and piston skirts.

If I had to guess I would say that the oil loss was due to a damaged piston or ring wear and running with the low oil condition led to the bearing failure.

So in terms of repairs....impossible to fully estimate until we know the extent of the damage. I'd say, if it is a rod bearing failure then you need at minimum a new crank, new rods, new bearings. I'd also replace the oil pump and possibly the oil cooler (traps metal particles which are impossible to clean out). If the pistons and cylinders are not damaged then replacing rings and lightly honing is all it will need but I doubt that is going to be the case. If pistons and cylinders are damaged then the block will need to be bored out and new pistons fitted. But at that point the cost difference between replacing the short block and rebuilding it will get very small so it might be more worthwhile to just replace it.

If the cams and cam journals in the heads are not scored too badly from the metal then they can probably be cleaned up and reused. If the scoring is really bad, though, then new heads are going to be necessary and that will dramatically affect the repair costs.

All we can do is tear it down and inspect and then give you the different options and estimated costs. I would say the total costs parts, labor, and tuning are going to be somewhere between $4700 and $7000 depending on the condition of parts and the direction that we need to go in. That would be to build it to the same spec as our Street Spec short block which is upgraded rods, bearings, and forged Cosworth pistons This is a good setup for a daily driver application making power outputs up to around 500whp.

Thanks. Regards, Dave Rallispec[\quote]
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Last edited by kapp_badbloodz : 10-02-2012 at 10:22 AM.
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:20 AM #155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ridebmx211 View Post
heads need to be milled either way, i wont put old heads on a fresh block with out "flatening" them first Also being that it ran low on oil you have no idea what shape the cam journals are in either.

IMO long block would be the way to go.
That is a good point.

Just pick up a Cosy built long block. Only 15k.
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:28 AM #156
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Find a lightly used stock longblock. Keep what you have, bore the block and build it for big power.
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:30 AM #157
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Pfft cause I have 15k laying around

I could possibly work a drug deal with my pops and he fronts me the 4k to start and I give.him my bonus that pays out in April. Like I said earlier... worst possible time for this to happen
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"Originally posted by slateman: Air Force . . . serious business"
MGDT: "Originally posted by Marine786: We had one guy get orders for a deployment while on a deployment."
AFDT:"Originally posted by f2f4: Or maybe he meant our exposed and aerated crotches. Privates. Because lord knows our PT gear only encourages "wardrobe malfunctions.""
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:35 AM #158
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Probably going to have to sell all my parts

Keep exhaust and sell:

FMIC core
Turbo
TGV deletes
Injectors
Omg so many parts. If anybody wants anything here I'll set you up right. Just pm me so we don't get in trouble :/
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"Originally posted by slateman: Air Force . . . serious business"
MGDT: "Originally posted by Marine786: We had one guy get orders for a deployment while on a deployment."
AFDT:"Originally posted by f2f4: Or maybe he meant our exposed and aerated crotches. Privates. Because lord knows our PT gear only encourages "wardrobe malfunctions.""
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:46 AM #159
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What injectors? Size? Used?
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:47 AM #160
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what turbo?
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:49 AM #161
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When I spun my bearing, I had only minor scoring. The crank and rods were the only thing that needed to be replaced.

We got the engine honed and it all came out. We cleaned the heads ourselves, they didn't need to be touched too bad. Cams shouldn't need to be touched, neither should valves/covers/springs. I'd expect to do the crankshaft. OEM replacement isn't too terribly bad, can actually get OEM 2.5 cranks cheaper than 2.0 cranks. Go figure. We went ahead and did crankshaft, pistons, rods, bearings, head studs and valves/covers/springs. No disappointment so far.

A visual inspection of the block is your best bet. If your rattle isn't too loud, you're probably fine. Emphasis on probably, and not definitely. Mine was a pretty loud ticking, my bearing that failed completely disintegrated and show everywhere. Rod was knocking and you could hear the bearing in there. Mine sounded horrible and really ended up not being that bad.

If you can find someone to pull it apart for you, you can probably save money. A shop is a shop, and is going to recommend you do things because they'll gain money from it, it will sound logical, and it will benefit you so why not? But if you're tight on money, and it's only lightly scored, you can probably save the block and come out with only new crank/bearings/rods and a good cleaning/honing everywhere. Maybe, and pretty probably, your pistons will be pretty beat as well.

Of course, getting other parts is hardly a bad thing. Cams, valves and all, head studs and all the other stuff, of course, won't hurt it to replace. It's probably better But you probably don't have to.

There's only so much they can do over the phone.

Maybe you could ask them to let you come see it when they get it out? So you could assess it yourself and judge what you think you need. Like he said, if it would only cost you a few hundred more to get a whole new block than them to put all those internals in, there's an obvious choice there.

Good luck man. I know my rebuild process was such a ****ing pain in the *** but having a 205 good to as high as the block walls can handle is such a good feeling.

And for future reference, make sure it's fully warm before you hit 5k RPM
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:51 AM #162
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If only those injectors were top feed.
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:53 AM #163
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They are, or should be.
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Old 10-02-2012, 11:02 AM #164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kapp_badbloodz View Post
Don't know how to feel about this... nice guy though ^_____^

Hi Corey

The metal particles and the noise are indicative of a bearing failure of some type and possibly spun rod bearing. The issue will probably be how much damage may have been done by the circulating metal particles as this can damage camshaft and cam journal surfaces as well as score cylinder walls and piston skirts.

If I had to guess I would say that the oil loss was due to a damaged piston or ring wear and running with the low oil condition led to the bearing failure.

So in terms of repairs....impossible to fully estimate until we know the extent of the damage. I'd say, if it is a rod bearing failure then you need at minimum a new crank, new rods, new bearings. I'd also replace the oil pump and possibly the oil cooler (traps metal particles which are impossible to clean out). If the pistons and cylinders are not damaged then replacing rings and lightly honing is all it will need but I doubt that is going to be the case. If pistons and cylinders are damaged then the block will need to be bored out and new pistons fitted. But at that point the cost difference between replacing the short block and rebuilding it will get very small so it might be more worthwhile to just replace it.

If the cams and cam journals in the heads are not scored too badly from the metal then they can probably be cleaned up and reused. If the scoring is really bad, though, then new heads are going to be necessary and that will dramatically affect the repair costs.

All we can do is tear it down and inspect and then give you the different options and estimated costs. I would say the total costs parts, labor, and tuning are going to be somewhere between $4700 and $7000 depending on the condition of parts and the direction that we need to go in. That would be to build it to the same spec as our Street Spec short block which is upgraded rods, bearings, and forged Cosworth pistons This is a good setup for a daily driver application making power outputs up to around 500whp.

Thanks. Regards, Dave Rallispec[\quote]
Sounds EXACTLY the way i would put it any of my customers. ANd thats pretty much what i told you aside from costs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rampager2000 View Post
When I spun my bearing, I had only minor scoring. The crank and rods were the only thing that needed to be replaced.

We got the engine honed and it all came out. We cleaned the heads ourselves, they didn't need to be touched too bad. Cams shouldn't need to be touched, neither should valves/covers/springs. I'd expect to do the crankshaft. OEM replacement isn't too terribly bad, can actually get OEM 2.5 cranks cheaper than 2.0 cranks. Go figure. We went ahead and did crankshaft, pistons, rods, bearings, head studs and valves/covers/springs. No disappointment so far.

A visual inspection of the block is your best bet. If your rattle isn't too loud, you're probably fine. Emphasis on probably, and not definitely. Mine was a pretty loud ticking, my bearing that failed completely disintegrated and show everywhere. Rod was knocking and you could hear the bearing in there. Mine sounded horrible and really ended up not being that bad.

If you can find someone to pull it apart for you, you can probably save money. A shop is a shop, and is going to recommend you do things because they'll gain money from it, it will sound logical, and it will benefit you so why not? But if you're tight on money, and it's only lightly scored, you can probably save the block and come out with only new crank/bearings/rods and a good cleaning/honing everywhere. Maybe, and pretty probably, your pistons will be pretty beat as well.

Of course, getting other parts is hardly a bad thing. Cams, valves and all, head studs and all the other stuff, of course, won't hurt it to replace. It's probably better But you probably don't have to.

There's only so much they can do over the phone.

Maybe you could ask them to let you come see it when they get it out? So you could assess it yourself and judge what you think you need. Like he said, if it would only cost you a few hundred more to get a whole new block than them to put all those internals in, there's an obvious choice there.

Good luck man. I know my rebuild process was such a ****ing pain in the *** but having a 205 good to as high as the block walls can handle is such a good feeling.

And for future reference, make sure it's fully warm before you hit 5k RPM
and its still not running right.....
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Old 10-02-2012, 11:17 AM #165
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Like I said, Dave is a very knowledgable and awesome guy.
Go there
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Old 10-02-2012, 12:07 PM #166
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Injectors are 850cc DW NIB top feeds

Turbo is FP HTA Green. Replaced the 68 HTA. Its a lend between the 68 and the standard green. NIB also
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Old 10-02-2012, 12:12 PM #167
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Don't you have an sti?

Thought ej255/257 used side feed injectors.
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Old 10-02-2012, 03:48 PM #168
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Don't you have an sti?

Thought ej255/257 used side feed injectors.
Only 04-06 STIs used side feeds.

Looking for at least 1200s Corey.
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