[NL2]

Hello! i need some help please. I can't figure out for the life of me how to adjust the cocking point on an e-cocker. I know on a mech, you'd have to adjust from the back of the cocking rod.

right now, on classic mode, with the trigger held, the bolt sticks out too much and the balls don't drop fully so on a full cycle... pinch and blend


at first i thought it would be to up the LPR (behind the solenoid)


then i tried playing around with the HPR (underneath the reg)


but those were stupid ideas lol.

I'd appreciate any help, thank you

[Dk-79]

You need to loosen the nut on the cocking rod, back it out until you're happy with the bolts clearance, then tighten the setscrew back down.

It's the rod below the bolt, if you didn't know.

Usually you should see 1/8th with the hammer locked on the sear, and it should go about 1/8th in. behind the feed tube. Some like more, some like less.

[NL2]

Originally Posted by Dk-79

You need to loosen the nut on the cocking rod, back it out until you're happy with the bolts clearance, then tighten the setscrew back down.

It's the rod below the bolt, if you didn't know.

Usually you should see 1/8th with the hammer locked on the sear, and it should go about 1/8th in. behind the feed tube. Some like more, some like less.

like i said... i did that on my mech cocker. But on this one... there's nothing there for me to adjust

[tacxplosion]

If it's the stock cocking rod, it's adjustable as any other decent 'cocker. You'll need to loosen the set-screw first.

[NL2]

Originally Posted by tacxplosion

If it's the stock cocking rod, it's adjustable as any other decent 'cocker. You'll need to loosen the set-screw first.

i'll take a look again tomorrow... i know that i stuck every possible allen key in there but nothing gripped. if you say there's only one way to adjust that for mech and e-cocker then i'll change the cocking rod

[Dk-79]

That's probably your best bet. It's pretty useless if you can't adjust it. A stock WGP one will probably only run you a couple bucks.

Good luck.

[Rebel_816]

i have one of those system x cocking rods. you need a 5/64" allen key for the set screw. also it might just be the lighting in the picture, but you might want to turn the back block out from the pump arm once or the pump arm from the ram shaft a little. want to keep that tiny bit of distance to keep the back block from hitting the body.

[NL2]

Originally Posted by Rebel_816

i have one of those system x cocking rods. you need a 5/64" allen key for the set screw. also it might just be the lighting in the picture, but you might want to turn the back block out from the pump arm once or the pump arm from the ram shaft a little. want to keep that tiny bit of distance to keep the back block from hitting the body.

thank you all for your replies...

i'll check if i have that specific one because in the set that i have its either too big or too loose (someone told me the inside could have been stripped). and yes it is the lighting, i know how to adjust the back block so its not hitting the body.

[dbkid0486]

Sometimes when cocking rods have set screws they dont work that well. People will for go the setscrew and loctite the cocking rod knob in place.

All of the Belsales/PE cockers do this. No setscrew, just loctite. Id bet your cocking rod knob was loctited and there is no set screw.

if thats the case ytou will need to heat the rod up pretty hot to break the loctites hold.

[NL2]

Originally Posted by dbkid0486

Sometimes when cocking rods have set screws they dont work that well. People will for go the setscrew and loctite the cocking rod knob in place.

All of the Belsales/PE cockers do this. No setscrew, just loctite. Id bet your cocking rod knob was loctited and there is no set screw.

if thats the case ytou will need to heat the rod up pretty hot to break the loctites hold.

-_-' i sincerely hope not lol