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Old 09-23-2012, 01:42 AM #253
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Blaze keeps it frosty for sure nice video man.
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Old 09-23-2012, 05:38 AM #254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJEmortal View Post
Thanks for doing that. Looks reassuring that we also get a little better efficiency out if gun in addition to improving the feel.

BTW, I was just out at Battlecreek with my brothers, and it was a GREAT woodsball field (did not play the PSP layout at the time).
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Old 09-23-2012, 10:20 AM #255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DiRtDoGg
MY noid Setting is your typical 2-7. The LPR was 1.5 turns in from flush.. And all the board settings are stock settings
A bit high on the LPR aren't you? Stock is 2 turns in. Lowering the LPR would be turning it further in.
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Old 09-23-2012, 01:46 PM #256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soul06 View Post
A bit high on the LPR aren't you? Stock is 2 turns in. Lowering the LPR would be turning it further in.
when i had my csl i ran my lpr at 3 and a quarter and it was smooooth
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Old 09-23-2012, 01:55 PM #257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BELOWZERO View Post
when i had my csl i ran my lpr at 3 and a quarter and it was smooooth
I'm at 2 or 2 1/2. Can't remember which. When I get the kit I will try to crank it to where you had yours
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Old 09-23-2012, 02:28 PM #258
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The way to properly set LPR and dwell isn't that hard to do. Should only take 10 minutes with a chrono and a pod of paint.

Install kit.

Adjust hpr to desired velocity.

Turn lpr in until velocity drops OR becomes inconsistent. Then turn lpr back out until velocity stabalizes. If you can get it to where an 1/8th of a turn gets negative results then that is the lowest possible lpr. Which is ideal for smoothness.

Next is dwell. Same principles. Turn down until velocity drops or becomes inconsistent. Then bump back up a .5 or 1 Ms. Dwell is the final step and adds a hair more smoothness and should decrease the sound signature a little.

If your velocity is still consistent these settings are the most optimal settings for YOUR gun. It will be the smoothest and most effecient that it can get. I'm curious what optimal settings people will get with the DART kit as opposed to a stock gun.
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Old 09-23-2012, 02:50 PM #259
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Thanks. But we weren't saying we didn't know HOW to do it lol
We were just curious to see what others had.
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Old 09-23-2012, 03:38 PM #260
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So installed the DART and ran out to practice. Did not make any changed on HPR, LPR, or dwell. I double checked that things were installed correctly because of some people installing it wrong. Paint was breaking a bit due to cool temps.

I put the gun over a chronology and did not notice any change in sound signature, kick, or velocity. I was shooting 280-290 tell weeks ago, now 270's. I checked LPR (2 turns in), checked dwell (14.5), and solenoid settings (4 rear, 7 front), and reset the HPR (turn all the way in, back out 4 turns, then adjust to get 280-290 fps). I bad batch of 2-star that would break every 5-10 balls, switched out to rec ball, but still breaking at least one per pod or so.

Paint was about 0.684-0.686 on the ball sizer, tried using 0.681 and 0.685 backs with Fuse tip.

I took the gun apart to the recheck valve and stem position, which were correct. Brass insert on bolt was also correct.

So, other people were also chopping, but with DART I did not notice any changes. I admit that the paint was different from one week to next, but 2 star each time. Only other thing to do is rebuild the HPR and LPR.

Any thoughts?
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Old 09-23-2012, 03:52 PM #261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spazdoc View Post
So installed the DART and ran out to practice. Did not make any changed on HPR, LPR, or dwell. I double checked that things were installed correctly because of some people installing it wrong. Paint was breaking a bit due to cool temps.

I put the gun over a chronology and did not notice any change in sound signature, kick, or velocity. I was shooting 280-290 tell weeks ago, now 270's. I checked LPR (2 turns in), checked dwell (14.5), and solenoid settings (4 rear, 7 front), and reset the HPR (turn all the way in, back out 4 turns, then adjust to get 280-290 fps). I bad batch of 2-star that would break every 5-10 balls, switched out to rec ball, but still breaking at least one per pod or so.

Paint was about 0.684-0.686 on the ball sizer, tried using 0.681 and 0.685 backs with Fuse tip.

I took the gun apart to the recheck valve and stem position, which were correct. Brass insert on bolt was also correct.

So, other people were also chopping, but with DART I did notice any changes. I admit that the paint was different from one week to next, but 2 star each time. Only other thing to do is rebuild the HPR and LPR.

Any thoughts?
Perhaps you may be due for an HPR/LPR cleaning *shrugs*
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Old 09-23-2012, 04:21 PM #262
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spazdoc View Post
So installed the DART and ran out to practice. Did not make any changed on HPR, LPR, or dwell. I double checked that things were installed correctly because of some people installing it wrong. Paint was breaking a bit due to cool temps.

I put the gun over a chronology and did not notice any change in sound signature, kick, or velocity. I was shooting 280-290 tell weeks ago, now 270's. I checked LPR (2 turns in), checked dwell (14.5), and solenoid settings (4 rear, 7 front), and reset the HPR (turn all the way in, back out 4 turns, then adjust to get 280-290 fps). I bad batch of 2-star that would break every 5-10 balls, switched out to rec ball, but still breaking at least one per pod or so.

Paint was about 0.684-0.686 on the ball sizer, tried using 0.681 and 0.685 backs with Fuse tip.

I took the gun apart to the recheck valve and stem position, which were correct. Brass insert on bolt was also correct.

So, other people were also chopping, but with DART I did notice any changes. I admit that the paint was different from one week to next, but 2 star each time. Only other thing to do is rebuild the HPR and LPR.

Any thoughts?
dude every gun at the my field today was breaking paint.....DM, G6rs,luxes, egos, and my geo3...not a fun time i was shooting gi 1 and 2 and 3 star that had been sitting out for like 1 hour in the cold........BLENDERS every where..onlything i found to help was over boring like a mother....paint was about a 683 and i was using a 689 and it seemed to help some but not a whole lot
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Old 09-24-2012, 05:26 AM #263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soul06 View Post
Perhaps you may be due for an HPR/LPR cleaning *shrugs*
I cleaned it beforehand, and the HPR just had the inline regulator adjuster replaced at MAO. I rebuilt the regs last night with new orings, and will take to the field next week. Perhaps I should do a before/after just to be sure, though. The only thing that it is a pain to do it at the field.
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Old 10-03-2012, 04:48 PM #264
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I will Paypal someone $10 to make a video installing the whole kit.

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Old 10-03-2012, 05:15 PM #265
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Originally Posted by TwistedFreak View Post
I will Paypal someone $10 to make a video installing the whole kit.
It really isn't hard - just follow the instructions and use your Ego manual too.
Never owned an Ego before and got the kit a few days after getting my Ego-S and Whammo did it first time.
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Old 10-03-2012, 05:55 PM #266
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If you watch the strip down/rebuild video by Mr. Wood, he takes out the valve guide. Might be of a little help

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Old 10-05-2012, 04:42 PM #267
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So i just got done installing mine and it shoots/sounds great! love it
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Old 10-05-2012, 06:22 PM #268
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The shot sounds more like a click now instead of like a BLOOMINGCARLZANDERRRR!!!....
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Old 10-06-2012, 08:52 AM #269
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Dang 2 more pods that's sweet
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Old 10-06-2012, 09:35 AM #270
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I feel like my 11 is shooting smoother than my 2.1 now. I also did the solenoid adjustment 1-7. The geo is pretty new. And i did send my bolt into pooty
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Old 10-09-2012, 03:35 PM #271
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This kit is the real deal! Love it!
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Old 10-26-2012, 10:59 AM #272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shootingropes View Post
idiots.

obvious photoshop isn't that obvious?
It isn't shopped. there is a vid of the guy playing with it
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Old 10-26-2012, 07:42 PM #273
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Probably stupid question but does it work with any other ego?
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