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Old 09-18-2012, 01:02 AM #22
Christian P
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Is there any benefit to going to a rear cocking than having it on top?
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Old 09-18-2012, 07:17 AM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christian P View Post
Is there any benefit to going to a rear cocking than having it on top?
I don't follow you.... Your gun is rear cocking with the bolt on top. Do you mean having a single bolt/sear system vs a autococker design?
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Old 09-18-2012, 08:30 AM #24
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I don't follow you.... Your gun is rear cocking with the bolt on top. Do you mean having a single bolt/sear system vs a autococker design?
I think he's talking about the location of the cocking knob on the bolt.

And, no, no advantage that I can think of.
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Old 09-18-2012, 11:09 AM #25
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Top-cockers can sling out the cocking knob sometimes but if you have an Allen key on you then you're good.
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Old 09-18-2012, 12:37 PM #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stickin2j View Post
I think he's talking about the location of the cocking knob on the bolt.

And, no, no advantage that I can think of.


It moves the bolt to the rear instead of on top. It's a $6 part on the bay.
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Old 09-19-2012, 09:59 PM #27
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So I played a couple pods today.

A ported barrel made a long range difference for the 50 foot shots I was missing. I can't tell who makes it, but it's made in Mexico and it's aluminum.

Someone buy my Evil barrel. I think it's auto-cocker thread.
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Old 09-19-2012, 10:18 PM #28
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Huh thats strange, I thought that all of the Evil Pipe barrels were ported. Glad that you found a solution and cheaply!
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Old 09-19-2012, 11:03 PM #29
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Huh thats strange, I thought that all of the Evil Pipe barrels were ported. Glad that you found a solution and cheaply!
The evil barrel is ported, 14"long 2 piece, is not spyder thread.

I found another cheaper barrel that was 12", ported, and spyder thread.
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Old 09-20-2012, 01:10 AM #30
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If you don't wish to sell your evil barrel kit and you know for sure the threading is cocker, then you could use one of these barrel adapters:
http://www.ansgear.com/Lapco_Barrel_...aptckr-spy.htm
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Old 09-20-2012, 10:20 PM #31
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If I could get a back of the barrel that worked with the marker, then I'd keep it.

However I don't know if it's worth it as I got a money setup with my current no name ported barrel.
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Old 09-23-2012, 11:20 AM #32
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Got my repair kit for the marker. Also got a skull dust cover to go with it.

I have 3 barrels that have a spyder thread...
- 8" stock barrel - doubt I'll ever use this again, should I sell it? Can I port this barrel or is that not possible?
- 12" ported barel - money ball for accuracy
- 21" long barrel - This seems to be as good as the 12" but it's too long to play speedball with or keep enough volume of air for more than 2 games.

Can you port an old barrel ?

Has anyone done so?
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Old 09-25-2012, 07:23 PM #33
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The porting of a barrel is as simple as drilling a few symmetrical holes towards the tip of the barrel.

The issue with it is that you'd have to find a way to hold the barrel steady, mark out your holes/pattern, and make sure the porting isn't too much otherwise the barrel will cause problems.

If you choose to drill holes for porting, make sure you remove any burrs on the inside of the barrel while creating as few scratches as possible. More scratches can equal more issues.
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Old 09-25-2012, 08:21 PM #34
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If a barrel is to wide in diameter already, could I use strips of epoxy inside the barrel to add the porting?

I don't want to drill or take out more metal.
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Old 09-25-2012, 08:29 PM #35
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Last edited by Christian P : 09-25-2012 at 08:31 PM.
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Old 09-25-2012, 08:32 PM #36
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Here is the ported barrel. I've started putting the laser site on top of the barrel instead below.
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Old 10-10-2012, 08:22 AM #37
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How do you like this marker now? This is a great backup gun for Blake or Tom.
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Old 10-23-2012, 04:44 PM #38
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This marker is now for sale, everything for $60 in the classified autococker section.

PM me if interested.
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