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Old 09-12-2012, 08:16 PM #22
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The 13 only gives you about 100-120 shots roughly. I've actually been using it on my pump marker for several months now.
The last few outings I've been going a bit nuts in shooting with the pump on the speedball field and can't help but feel a need something bigger. Heh. The fill station guys love me though. Takes all of two seconds to fill and then I'm out the door again.

If you need to adjust the position of the reg you can drop an o-ring into your asa if you can, that changes where it bottoms out. Or you can see if somebody locally sells ninja clips. They shim the reg behind the threads and where it comes to rest. I use a shim on my 13 tank for just this reason otherwise the fill nipple digs into my wrist. Normally it's not a problem as I do the same thing of adjusting my grip but in this case it really just came to rest in a bad spot.
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Old 09-13-2012, 09:22 AM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Winger CT View Post
Thanks for the feedback, Rob. It might even be easier to make as an "add-on" ASA though. Just a shorty ASA that screwed into an existing one, with the On/Off valve swapping between the ASA input and the side mount hole where a gauge usually goes.

You could package it with a 13/3000 tank as a "reserve tank adapter".

I'd pay $24.95 for it in a heartbeat, fwiw.
Here's another dual air system setup. Originally posted by Fox Paintball in Aurora, IL.



Gonna be a lil heavy carrying that kind of setup around with dual tanks on the marker but this is another method for using dual air systems.
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Old 09-13-2012, 09:24 AM #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angrypencils View Post
Well, I got all the stuff today. It's late and I'm tired so pics coming tomorrow. Tried it out, didn't have enough paintballs to empty out my air tank (plastered the hell out of the trees though ). Didn't get to 800psi but I removed the QD from the line and it fit perfectly on the fill nipple and aired up no problem. Only problem is on my reg, the assembly at the end of the line sticks 4 inches out into my trigger arm but I can just adjust my grip a bit.

EDIT: I didn't want to let all the air out via the line because A) It's loud as hell and B) Wasn't sure if that kind of stress was okay for the line, so I figured not to risk it
Give Tabris' trick a try with dropping an oring down into your asa before screwing the 4500psi system into your marker. That will prevent the air system from screwing in all the way and is a nice old school trick to relocate your fill nipple a bit.
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Old 09-14-2012, 05:25 PM #25
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By angrypencils at 2012-09-14


By angrypencils at 2012-09-14

Hope this works right, first time using imageshack lol. Sorry the pictures are blurry, my friend's a ******* and doesn't know how to use autofocus lol.

Before anyone points it out... this is NOT what I usually play in lol, I have BDU pants etc. etc.
Anyway, everything works out pretty well. I tried the O-Ring thing and only shredded it, until I came back and looked at it and realized i need to put the o-ring all the way in the ASA and not at the open end... bit of an oversight on my part lol
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Old 09-14-2012, 09:04 PM #26
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Yep, that's exactly like the rig I ran at EMR. Nice job, pencils. Hopefully you can do some accurate performance testing- I never knew what the heck I was doing.
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Old 09-17-2012, 12:57 PM #27
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OK, I've been thinking about this, and about all those times I ended up with more paint than air.

What do you guys think of this? Feasible? Dangerous?



Even though the elbow isn't really needed, it is an easy way to keep the pin from falling out of the fill nipple.
A 90 degree elbow would also work, but it might cause the remote hose to interfere with the tank on the marker.

The Palmer piece is only $20, and I have the other bits. I may just make myself one...
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Old 09-17-2012, 01:20 PM #28
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That is more or less exactly what Rob was saying to do, except with some things repositioned. Looks like it would work but I'm not exactly an expert on this lol
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Old 09-17-2012, 03:14 PM #29
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Regulators have ports that are designed specifically to have certain items go in them. This means port depth is something to consider. I do not know if the port depth on the 45 degree fitting will allow the fill nipple rivet to move back and forth enough to have it work correctly.
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Old 09-17-2012, 04:02 PM #30
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Hmm. Excellent point, Rob. I've ordered the Palmer's part and will experiment with it.

Maybe the 90 deg elbow is the better approach. That way I could always drill/tap a 6/32 allen screw opposite the inside of the fill nipple, and even use a small spring on it to keep the "plunger" closed.
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Old 09-17-2012, 04:18 PM #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Winger CT View Post
Hmm. Excellent point, Rob. I've ordered the Palmer's part and will experiment with it.

Maybe the 90 deg elbow is the better approach. That way I could always drill/tap a 6/32 allen screw opposite the inside of the fill nipple, and even use a small spring on it to keep the "plunger" closed.
interesting idea. I'm not sure of what type of tension you would need on the spring to keep the valve shut but keep us posted on what you find.
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Old 09-20-2012, 07:02 PM #32
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Needed a couple of tweaks, but it works perfectly!

I'll get some pics together over the weekend.
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Old 09-21-2012, 07:26 PM #33
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So here is what I came up with:

(The Rap4 in-line tank shut off on the left is handy, and makes it a little longer, but its not required.)


And here it is installed:


Last night I wrote to Palmers Pursuit about it to get their take on any safety or technical issues, and suggested they consider building them. Craig wrote me a nice note back today. (What a class act that shop is.)

I guess he liked the idea, because as of today, he is offering the Wing Tank Rig for sale for $34.95! Add a little more if you want a gauge on it.

Scenario players can really use this. Very often, it is only a short distance to a respawn, but a long way to get more air. Being able to roll comfortably carrying 136/4500 in air means a squad with a ruck of extra paint and a Medic can stay on the field a looong time. (And no, I wouldn't normally use this for my pistol- it was just handy. )

To borrow a saying from the Army, "Amateurs talk strategy. Pro's talk logisitics."

Thanks for starting this thread Angrypencils, and for gettin me thinkin...
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Old 09-21-2012, 07:34 PM #34
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Ah! I misunderstood earlier. In your application, you just need the fill nipple fitting and not the actual rivet that seals up inside. Dont know why I was thinking you would need to open and close the fill nipple port...

Very cool setup Love seeing what you tinkerers come up with!

Btw, you guys gave me a great idea on what to write about in this month's issue of Paintball X3. Check out http://www.joomag.com/magazine/paint...17001347930164

Page 80 and 81. Thanks for the idea Angrypencils and Winger CT
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Old 09-21-2012, 08:09 PM #35
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Hi Rob!

Actually we do use the rivet in the nipple. That way you can disconnect the remote line (or not use one) without depressurizing the marker. And I actually found that the 90 degree elbow won't seal automatically without some sort of spring inside, but the 45 degree seals up instantly without any other bits.

Nice article! Too bad the new Palmer's product didn't make your deadline.

Thanks for advice and suggestions, Rob. More great service from Ninja!
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Old 09-26-2012, 02:39 PM #36
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In a related thread under Scenario>Specialized gear, tvise asked a good question, so I thought I would add the info to this thread, too.

Quote:
if one tank is empty and you fill the other does it try to fill the empty tank?
To which I replied:

Quote:
Excellent question, and the answer is sometimes, sort of.

In most cases, you would start with both tanks full. Their combined regulator outputs equalize in the asa, and from there the tanks should empty more or less at the same rate, percentage wise. The variables are differences in the exact regulator output pressures, and the capacity of each tank.

Because of the back-check nipple, the only case where one tank will try to fill the other is if you have an empty tank on the marker, and then you connect a full remote tank to the wing tank nipple. At that point, the full tank will push some air back into the empty tank, but only at ~850 psi. So the empty tank will only refill to that pressure before they both equalize in the ASA again, and then you shoot until the remote tank reaches ~850 psi, then they both empty completely from there.

A full tank on the marker will never try to refill an empty remote tank at all, due the back-check nipple.

Craig Palmer says that this device should only be used with two identical tanks, btw, and although I've tested it with a 4500 and 3000 and it seemed to work fine, I will bow to his superior expertise.

Hmmm. I suppose if you REALLY wanted to get fancy, you could run a high pressure fill whip from the remote tank down through ther remote line cover so it exits near the marker tank. That could make it easier to refill each tank without dismantling anything.

If anyone sees any holes in my logic, btw, speak up!
and

Quote:
Replying to you, tvise, just made me think of one mega No-No:

Never try to refill the tank(s) using the wing tank nipple! Like most of us, your average paintball marker would not enjoy getting 5000psi up their hind end. Sorta like getting a colonoscopy without the pleasant parts.

Marking the wing tank nipple with red tape or paint, or a "NO FILL" label would probably be prudent...
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