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Old 08-11-2012, 09:31 PM #1
jrayy38
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Seattle, Wa
Connecting Rod Issues... Help!?

Hey guys, so I've got myself a new autococker.

Its a FBM body with all ANS internals and a delrin bolt, with an original worrframe trigger system.

I tried it out today at the field and ended up chopping paint like a mofo!
The gun is timed correctly it appears because in demo mode it cycles great.

I looked down the feed neck and discovered the bolt does not cycle back far enough and looks to be the source of the problems. I was disassembling the gun and reassembling only to find my connecting rod seems to be stripped!!

I position the back block correctly almost against the back of the gun, leaving enough room for a piece of paper. Everything looks good to go then all of a sudden the connecting rod slips out from the ram!

Do i need a replacement cocking rod?!
If so, WHERE CAN I GET ONE ASAP!? lol

Also, is the correct way to position the bolt farther back in cycle by backing the cocking rod back out? What if the rod is quite loose by moving it that far back?

Thanks in advance guys.
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Old 08-12-2012, 01:29 AM #2
PeaTear_Griffin
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If the gun was correctly timed you shouldn't be chopping paint...

What do you mean by connecting rod? Do you mean the pump arm? W/o air set the bolt so when the gun is cocked there is about 1/16th of an inch (close to it) of the bolt showing. How are you adjusting the cocking rod? you are suppose to move the nut or adjustment knob on the back of it... Are you leaving it loose when screwing it into the hammer to adjust it?

The paper method only really works after you have air'd up the gun if you set it without air sometimes the pump arm will be pushed in slightly more then without air. Thus making it slap against the body and it can snap/strip your pump arm.
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Old 08-12-2012, 03:15 AM #3
jrayy38
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Location: Seattle, Wa
Ok I see about the paper thing. Yeah by connecting rod i meant pump arm.

I was unscrewing the cocking rod to get it set back. The adjustment done at the very back end (visible anodized part) of the cocking rod? I see now there is a small allen (I think) screw set way in. Not just unscrewing the rod itself I assume, which is what I was doing...

Another pump arm already ordered anyway, pretty sure its stripped
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Old 08-12-2012, 11:35 AM #4
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This really helped me when I was starting out, give it a try, you'll enjoy it even after you've mastered timing. (3-way adjusting collar in a mech works like CON & COFF settings in e-blade boards, which I'd recommend looking into)

http://www.freefilehosting.net/timingmxv11
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Old 08-12-2012, 12:54 PM #5
pakmule87
 
 
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As far as the pump arm being stripped, the ram end is trying to come out which could have just been an issue of nothing being put on the threads to keep it in place, or if it is just popping out without unthreading itself, then it is stripped.

Cocking rods, also can be a little tricky for adjusting, mainly if you have an old one that hasn't been adjusted in a long time. Best thing to do is put the rod end on a vice and use a set of vice grips to unscrew the cap (try to get some rubber to act as a buffer so you don't scratch it up), or if you have the nut style you can get a wrench instead of the vice grips. But of course make sure to get the set screw out first
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Old 08-14-2012, 12:49 AM #6
Rebel_816
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keep in mind if youve adjusted the cocking rod, that when the bolt is fully back you should still the able to pull the cocking rod back just a little more than what the bolt does...dont want to have it pulling the hammer back so far the lug hits the end of the slot it rides in.
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Old 08-23-2012, 08:46 PM #7
jrayy38
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Thanks for the help guys. I had it adjusted pretty well (or so I thought) and when I took it to the field it began chopping paint. Eventually an o ring on the reg went right after I heard the 3 way start a small leak. They were old rings anyway, its at the shop now haha
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