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Old 06-28-2012, 07:41 PM #1597
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ok, so this question is a bit more involved than the usual and i need a bit of help with it from you guys.


based off of these,
http://www.zdspb.com/media/skr03/nextgun_schematic3.GIF


im attempting to figure out the configuration of the 4 leads for the eye sensor. im assuming the 1 and 2 labeled in the first schematic lead to the LED which would correspond to the top left and bottom left lead on the eye, while 3 and 4 (top and bottom right) lead to the sensor. Does it matter which is attached to the ground or power? im also assuming that while looking at the upper board schematic, 1 and 2 are the left most ports on the board, correct?

i plan on using a T-board for a project and want to use the stock eye sensor instead of dremeling the **** out the body to accept BB eyes

if anyone can tell me the order of each of these I would really appreciate it.
each of these four leads correspond to the LED ground, LED power, Sensor power, and Sensor ground according to Scenario Dreams. Im assuming this is the case for the shocker eye as well.

if someone could post or PM me that would be awesome.

Last edited by straptrams91 : 06-28-2012 at 07:52 PM.
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Old 06-29-2012, 09:35 AM #1598
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I need some help with my shocker SFT. I think it is the orings but whenever I screw in the tank air starts shooting out of the holes on the body. Not where the detents and eyes are but the part where you can see the bolt. Also, it has a virtue board and whenever you turn the marker on it shuts off after 3 seconds. PLEASE Help!!!
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Old 06-29-2012, 09:58 AM #1599
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The big o-rings on the can need replaced (22's) if you have a standard can. if you have one of the cut-out cans, there are 16/70's that seal around the body holes, but you have to take care when inserting the can to line them up exactly, or air pressure can turn the can a tad and air will escape. If these are lined up properly, even a bad 22 around the can won't leak from those holes. Identify your bolt using the www.zdspb.com page. go to shocker SFT->regular maintenance/bolt kit to see the oring diagrams.

About the board: Did you change your battery yet? I read somewhere that virtue boards need 5-7V from a battery to operate, so even a half-full battery may not work for paintball application.
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Old 06-29-2012, 10:07 AM #1600
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^^^ Thanks so much
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Old 06-29-2012, 02:16 PM #1601
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Here's a little problem that's got me stumped, let's see if anyone has some input.

When my shocker is not gassed up the power button works perfectly fine, and when it is gassed up the power button sticks in the forward position and does not come back.

I have a hater board installed and when I turn it on it just blinks constant green telling me my battery is good and the button doesn't reset so it doesn't go into firing mode.

I have to leave the top grip frame screw out so I can push the grips to the side and push the power button back out from inside the grip frame. I have to do this every time I turn the gun on/off and its a real pain in the *** having to do it at the field

Thanks
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Old 06-29-2012, 02:33 PM #1602
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Hmm.... that is a strange one. I can tell you that when you hold the power button in after turning the hater board on the light blinks green or red to indicate battery level and doesnt stop until you release the button so thats why its blinking green.

As far as it only sticking when aired up it makes no sense because there's no air back there other than the noid itself. The logical thinking would be your noid is shiftin and pressing against the power button acctuator causing it to stick. But logic would also tell us if the noid was loose enough to shift then it would be leaking aswell so IDK.

I would start by pulling the pin out of the acctuator and cleaning it and the hole in the frame then take the frame off and inspect the noid. Make sure its tight and straight with the body not cocked to one side. Then give it another try.
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Old 06-29-2012, 02:42 PM #1603
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Okay thanks for the advice, I'll let you know how I make out.
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Old 06-29-2012, 03:26 PM #1604
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Make sure your grip frame screws are tight as well. If that doesn't work, loosen them and shift the frame back or forward with one hand and tighten with the other. sometimes a mm or two of a shift will prevent the button from sticking in my experience
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Old 06-29-2012, 06:47 PM #1605
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Can I use the new dye slick lube on my Shocker sft bolt, firing can, and guide?
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Old 06-29-2012, 07:30 PM #1606
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Yes
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Old 06-29-2012, 07:52 PM #1607
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I really appreciate all the help you guys have been giving me! Now I checked all the Orings a re-lubed all of them and the gun leaks down the barrel not the side shocker logos anymore. What could cause this? Again thank you.
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Old 06-29-2012, 07:58 PM #1608
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Bolt Guide orings or front can oring
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Old 06-29-2012, 08:18 PM #1609
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Quote:
Originally Posted by straptrams91 View Post
Bolt Guide orings or front can oring
Front inner and outer can orings to be exact. The bolt guide tip orings are the more comon cause so I would start there.
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Old 06-29-2012, 08:29 PM #1610
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim4130 View Post
Front inner and outer can orings to be exact. The bolt guide tip orings are the more comon cause so I would start there.
yup, sorry i was replying on my phone. should have been more specific
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Old 06-29-2012, 08:30 PM #1611
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Your right either way. No worries.
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Old 06-29-2012, 11:23 PM #1612
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From the sounds of that SFT, many of the o-rings are bad. I'd go to zdspb, remove all orings from the assembly, clean the assembly, rebuild it with fresh orings and relube it. if the 22/70's are leaking, there's a good chance a lot of the orings have been weathered.
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Old 06-29-2012, 11:59 PM #1613
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Hey everyone,

So I went ahead and tried removing the body screw under the solenoid manifold, and then put it back in but with blue loctite. No go. I can try red loctite, but what number is recommended?

I was thinking that I could also try taking parts from my working shocker and see if using some of those resolves the issues, but i also don't want to potential cause damage to that one, its my baby (I've had it since '04).

Thanks
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Old 06-30-2012, 09:17 AM #1614
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I just bought a HE bolt for my shocker sft and was wondering if I need a HE can to use it. Also is the rhino spring mod worth it. I saw a guy on youtube that said you dont use the extra oring on a he bolt if you dont have a he can. Is that reqlly true? Thanks for all the help.
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Old 06-30-2012, 10:42 AM #1615
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JL1988 View Post
Hey everyone,

So I went ahead and tried removing the body screw under the solenoid manifold, and then put it back in but with blue loctite. No go. I can try red loctite, but what number is recommended?

I was thinking that I could also try taking parts from my working shocker and see if using some of those resolves the issues, but i also don't want to potential cause damage to that one, its my baby (I've had it since '04).

Thanks
red loctite make sure to shake it up before use and give it a good 24 hours to cure before you apply air to it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paintball105 View Post
I just bought a HE bolt for my shocker sft and was wondering if I need a HE can to use it. Also is the rhino spring mod worth it. I saw a guy on youtube that said you dont use the extra oring on a he bolt if you dont have a he can. Is that reqlly true? Thanks for all the help.
Rhino spring is the mod of all mods for the shocker. And yes no oring with an HE bolt and non HE can it wont fit. And FYI pretty much the whole point of an HE bolt is that xtra oring so you wont realy see much if any gain over your stock bolt
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Old 06-30-2012, 11:06 AM #1616
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Where can I find a HE can?
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Old 06-30-2012, 11:44 AM #1617
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BST section, they're everywhere
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