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Old 05-24-2012, 08:19 PM #22
Boom Master
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: St. Louis MO, USA, EARTH
Your local sign shop has scrap chloroplast to test fire at or you can just take my word for it that it will split and crack with every hit and have to be replaced just about every game...

Search "polycarbonate twin wall" Quite a few suppliers. Link to one.

http://gallinausa.com/policarb/

If you can't find it locally, Fed Ex will ship 4'x5' panels as an oversized package. You can put 8-10 sheets in the box max width allowed. Shipped for about $50 since it doesn't weigh anything.

Email or pm for info as needed.
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Old 05-26-2012, 10:09 AM #23
Old_Crow
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Check This Out

Boom Master, is this the same thing that you're talking about? This is what I'm calling corrugated plastic, and it looks like what you're calling polycarb. Is this the same thing?
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Old 06-08-2012, 06:33 AM #24
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Plastic corrugated sheets and polycarbinate sheets are different in strength, durable, and most of all price.
If you have a ready supply, the plastic sheets will hold up to a friendly game. If anyone focuses in on a spot, it will blow through. I have found, if you can carry a little more weight, Gorilla Glue foam rubber floor mats, like in tool room, to the outer face, and you got near impenetrable armor. Neither one works well alone, together they rock. I do however double layer the plastic sheet in the front armor areas.

Polycarbinate works realy well, but very pricey. And I too, under extreme conditions will crack and splinter. I would think the foam idea from above using polycarbinate as a backing would be quite good.

On a side note, the foam can be cut into body armor for exposed areas in the legs and groin area. Just take your time cutting and fitting. Glue washers to the foam for tie points so the foam doesn't rip through.
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Last edited by Greyknight Jazzious : 06-14-2012 at 06:01 AM.
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Old 06-08-2012, 12:25 PM #25
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Pugs

For me when tanking comes to the point where fields only allow Pugs or tanks like this will be my time to go. I dont see myself walking/trotting around a field in a contraption of these types. But in the realm of it all I am going to hang it up anyway soon. However I do see them as a useful tool to keep the spirit of the game alive. I have played against them and when I begin to track them for a kill they can get away and hide very quickly. A few of them didnt get away. I saw in some post last year somewhere in Australia where a guy was working on a type of hydrofoil tank that could fly. If this develops how will his tank ref follow him around. Maybe a hydrofoill Segway!!

Treaddz
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Old 06-08-2012, 09:44 PM #26
Boom Master
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Old Crow No. Those are made out of polyethelyne plastic.

Search "Polycarbonate Twin Wall" The same plastic they make safety glasses out of. They use it for tranlucent roofs on building and green houses. It will hold up against HAIL..... Use it for storm sutters in Floridia.

I use the 1/4" thick (6mm) it is the lightest and least expensive and holds up all season without a penetraction crack or split. It is so strong that I use it for the structural material of the body and eliminate the need for a frame to mount it on. Taint cheap but you don't use that much...

Let me know if you need help finding a vendor or supplier. My local source is a green house supply.
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:27 AM #27
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New design and concept

This is my first attempt at a low cost, modular system. This is the base unit with the helicopter mod

Side

Front

Rear


Comments?
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Old 08-01-2012, 05:23 PM #28
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Grey Knights we need to team up my team is lagging in the heavy armor division. I have a PUG and a Golf cart ready to convert but I need some help.

Where are the Grey Knights located?
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Old 08-19-2012, 12:17 PM #29
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I'm a big enough man...

I just wanted to report in on my PUG build. I wanted to state unequivocally that Boom Master is absolutely right about the coroplast. The sign blanks stood up to hits from about fifteen feet away, but when I approached closer than that they split.

Now, by using insulating foam as an underlayer on my tank, the splits were very small, but it would definitely compromise the integrity of the tank after a few uses, so that theory was tested and eliminated. I was wrong about the foam bracing eliminating the splitting.

I ended up using 5.2mm luann plywood to skin the tank, and when braced up with the foam underpenning it is both light and solid. The build continues. Pics will follow.

I'm actually writing an article on the build for Valken right now, and I am pointing people to these forums for more info. Thanks to all who have been so forthcoming with their experience and knowledge.
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Old 08-20-2012, 11:34 AM #30
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You have to go thicker on coroplast than what the signs are made out of. That thickness is a joke. The thick stuff holds up just fine. We've had some on the sides of our main battle tank for probably five or six years.
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