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Old 04-24-2012, 10:16 PM #1
ionbrother
 
 
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B2k help

Ok so i have a b2k w/ the PDS, so from what i've learned 03-04ish. Well my problem is that when I air it up, I get a leak and its somewhere between the seal of the lpr and the hpr. it almost sounds as if it is coming from right under beneath the grip frame pieces. I'm not as familiar with my b2k as I am with others so I was wondering where to go about trying to fix it before I just start into it in different directions. Any help is appreciated!
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Old 04-24-2012, 10:41 PM #2
JT Pimp
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The solenoid has an over pressure valve. Unscrew the LPR adjustment until it's flush, set your HPR around 200-225 psi. Screw in the LPR adjustment until your hear a leak in the frame, then back off 1/2 turn.

If that doesn't work then your manifold gasket may be leaking. Be careful if you disassemble your marker as you can rip out the solenoid and eye wires.
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Last edited by JT Pimp : 04-24-2012 at 10:44 PM.
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Old 04-24-2012, 10:45 PM #3
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Ok i set my hpr at 225, and I have the hpr screwed all the way in. That makes it as low as it goes correct? If so, I already have a leak from there
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Old 04-24-2012, 11:03 PM #4
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my bad for misreading. I see unscrew until its flush now. I apologize and am working on it now.

Ok I've done that and that should be good?
I've noticed though, that my bolt is not back. And if I were to screw the lpr in anymore, it will begin to leak
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Last edited by ionbrother : 04-24-2012 at 11:11 PM.
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Old 04-24-2012, 11:54 PM #5
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With the adjustment screw flush on the LPR your getting no pressure to the solenoid. Next step would be to take off the grip frame/tray and inspect the manifold gasket, along with the o-rings on the underside of the manifold.

Follow these steps to disassemble with out pulling wires.

1) Remove both eye covers and set aside (be sure not to lose the plastic pieces)
2) Remove 4 screws from the tray (the piece the grip frame is attached to)
***Hold the tray to the body until you can lay the marker flat***
3) Slowly separate the tray from the body (Notice the solenoid is screwed to the body)
4) Remove the 2 screws holding the solenoid to the manifold (the manifold is the silver aluminum piece)

Once you remove the solenoid inspect the gasket (the flat rubber piece) for cracks or cuts. Also you can remove the 4 screws holding the manifold block to the body to inspect those o-rings as well. You may lightly grease the gasket with some white lithium grease, be sure you cannot see excess grease as this can gunk up the solenoid.

With the marker apart you can air up the gun (be careful, use a large flat work surface to ensure nothing will fall) to closer inspect for the leak.

EDIT - Make sure the manifold and solenoid are installed before you air up the marker, if not it will pour out air.
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Old 04-25-2012, 12:05 AM #6
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Thank you very much! I'll be doing this probably tomorrow seeing as its 1 in the morning, and I got a presentation tomorrow
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Old 04-26-2012, 10:47 PM #7
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How did everything go?
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Old 04-27-2012, 09:24 PM #8
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yes, please keep this updated. i know teching over the comp is tough, since many things can go unnoticed and unwatched, but we are here to help.
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Old 05-02-2012, 03:29 PM #9
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Ok i just got an allen wrench that fits the bolts to the tray. when i took it apart, one of the yellow wires that goes to the eyes is disconnected. Then i'm not sure which bolts to take out to separate the manifold from the solenoid. I only see the 4 bolts that are holding the manifold to the upper asembly

I aslo just aired it up, and found the leak. its coming from between the solenoid and manifold. What can there/is there to be done about that?
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Last edited by ionbrother : 05-02-2012 at 03:35 PM.
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Old 05-02-2012, 06:04 PM #10
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what colour or what is the name of the noid? that will tell us what gasket to use.

now, you can tighten down(gently) the 2 screws that connect the noid to the manifold and see if that will do anything. but i would physically check the gasket.

well, i can fix the harness, as i make new ones. so you can either send me the harness to fix, or i can rebuild it(since it is almost 8 years old) with new switches, on/offs, even Laser Eyes.
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Old 05-02-2012, 07:13 PM #11
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well the noid is a humphrey hea10a5-gl-10101w and is that the onlly way to fix the harness? if so how much would that run?
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Old 05-02-2012, 08:37 PM #12
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either the bus(where all the wires go into) is broke, where the pin fell out, OR the wire stripped out of the pin, which means you need to recrimp the wires. now ICD used 2 different pins on the harnesses. one i can recrimp, the other i can't. i'd have to look at it, or you can tell me if you see anything on the black bus like, MXS or something with a number. if you don't see anything, then i can not crimp it. i will have to redo the bus and crimps. the cost can run as low as $5(for a recrimp) , $10 for a new bus and crimp pins to $45 for a brand new PDS harness with all new parts. all prices shipped.
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Old 05-02-2012, 09:23 PM #13
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Ok i'll work on getting some pictures so you can see what exactly i have, and i will look for the numbers or anything on the black bus line. Thanks. But for removing the noid from the manifold, is it the two little screws on top in the silver section of the white noid. are those all that is holding it together or how do i remove the noid from the manifold?
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Old 05-02-2012, 09:34 PM #14
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Nobody does great work. He has built two harnesses and and repaired one for me. Totally worth it. Plus we have a huge amount of other business.
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Old 05-03-2012, 12:48 AM #15
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the manifold is attached to the body by 4 screws. use a 5/32nd allen wrench for them. there will be orings underneath the manifold. they could be the problem as well. its not uncommon for the orings to become brittle and fall apart. so check them, then the 2 philips head screws connect the noid to the manifold. you will have successfully taken the manifold off the gun and noid off the manifold. you can remove them in any order, it doesn't matter.

pics of the harness will work. my return times can vary, but i do stand by the quality of my work.
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