Find fields & stores near you!
Find fields and stores
Zipcode
PbNation News
PbNation News
Community Focus
Community Focus

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 04-12-2012, 01:40 AM #1
pacasowithagun
SMASH! Now clean it up!!
 
pacasowithagun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: 410/Kiladelphia
pacasowithagun owns a Planet Eclipse Ego
pacasowithagun is an NCPA National Champion
Mod to remove exterior HP air line?

Are there any mods that remove the HP air line on the exterior of the gun? Obviously it would require some custom modification and possibly some custom parts, but I can't seem to find anything or any reason why it hasn't been done.
__________________
2009-2010 NCPA Class A National Champions
I offer 3D printing services! PM me!
Greg Hoge
pacasowithagun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Sponsored Links Remove Advertisement
Advertisement
Old 04-12-2012, 02:53 AM #2
89raider
all gas no brakes
 
89raider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Iowa
89raider owns a Planet Eclipse Ego
89raider supports Team VICIOUS
89raider plays in the APPA beginner division
89raider has achieved Level 1 in PbNation Pursuit
there arent any that i've found, basically because of the way the gun is layed out theres no way to send the air through the grip frame, and since the valve essentially is the regulator the line still needs to be there
__________________
CERTIFIED GUNSLINGER FOR PLAINS PAINTBALL...
89raider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2012, 07:30 AM #3
inmylife2415
SBPB
 
inmylife2415's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Madison
inmylife2415 supports DLX Technology
Yes, it can and has been done. You need to find the right frame, probably custom rail, drill into the bottom of the valve 2x, and remove the sear. Im pretty sure it would have to be electric and not pneumatic.
inmylife2415 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2012, 09:14 AM #4
pacasowithagun
SMASH! Now clean it up!!
 
pacasowithagun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: 410/Kiladelphia
pacasowithagun owns a Planet Eclipse Ego
pacasowithagun is an NCPA National Champion
Quote:
Originally Posted by inmylife2415 View Post
Yes, it can and has been done. You need to find the right frame, probably custom rail, drill into the bottom of the valve 2x, and remove the sear. Im pretty sure it would have to be electric and not pneumatic.
Do you know where I could find pics/a thread on this? Haven't been able to find anything yet.
__________________
2009-2010 NCPA Class A National Champions
I offer 3D printing services! PM me!
Greg Hoge
pacasowithagun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2012, 11:10 AM #5
automagsrule
LOIC
 
automagsrule's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Monkey Island
You will have to use a non standard grip frame and rail.
__________________

“If it is true that we need a degree of certainty to get by, it is also true that too much of the stuff can be lethal”
-Terry Eagleton
automagsrule is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2012, 01:12 PM #6
inmylife2415
SBPB
 
inmylife2415's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Madison
inmylife2415 supports DLX Technology
Quote:
Originally Posted by pacasowithagun View Post
Do you know where I could find pics/a thread on this? Haven't been able to find anything yet.
Yeah, but you will have to wait till I get home from work and can get on my computer. There is pics on here but the build thread is on AO

flatliner333 is the man who did it. I think his SN is the same on here as AO. Shoot him a pm

Edit again... Also talk to hill, I'm doing a macroless Karta as my next project and I know for a fact hill has ideas (and drawings I think) for one.

Last edited by inmylife2415 : 04-12-2012 at 01:29 PM.
inmylife2415 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2012, 06:06 PM #7
inmylife2415
SBPB
 
inmylife2415's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Madison
inmylife2415 supports DLX Technology
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...913&highlight=

hope your machining skills are up to snuff..lol
inmylife2415 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2012, 04:35 PM #8
Flatliner333
 
 
Flatliner333's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Beaumont, Texas
Flatliner333 is playing at Living Legends VII
http://www.pbnation.com/out.php?l=ht...%23post2738180

here is a link to some pictures of what i did ^^^
I used a S/S fitting I got from a place called Swagelock. It is a female 1/8 NPT that reduces down to about 3/16" to 1/4" or so. I threaded the smaller end and tapped a hole for it just behind the field strip screw hole in the valve. I then counter sunk the field strip hole in the rail so i could use a scew that would be flush on the underside of the rail.I made this hole big enough to accept the rail bushing (wich needs to be shortend) then drilled another hole behind this one for the S/S fitting to go through into the valve. Basically i attached the body to the rail,then the valve to the rail with the counter sunk screw, then the s/s fitting with a straight male macroline fitting attached through the rail and into the valve.I also cut the arm off the sear and welded a little hump on the bottom at the back of the sear (the solinoid is mounted verticle and pushes up on the back of the sear). Now that all of the important working parts are mounted directly to the rail it can all be moved forward on the trigger frame so that the macroline fitting going into the bottom of the valve can be positioned inside the trigger frame towards the back to leave room for the electronics. You then need to drill and tap two new holes in the rail to line up with the holes in the trigger frame so they can be attached together. It is important to note that the trigger frame i built for mine is 1" wide and there is alot of room to work with in there also my gun is only electric not electro pneumatic.

PS. I'm working on new build right now, different looking frame but same concept. I got really lucky on the first valve with no leak issues but the one I am working on now is fighting me....good luck.

If you do decide to drill a hole in the bottom of your valve make it small enough as to not be to close to the field strip hole or the wall that seperates the front and back halves of the valve.

Last edited by Flatliner333 : 04-19-2012 at 04:51 PM.
Flatliner333 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2012, 05:13 PM #9
CarnageReigns
 
 
CarnageReigns's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Cincy/NKY
CarnageReigns is playing at Living Legends VII
CarnageReigns has achieved Level 2 in PbNation Pursuit
CarnageReigns supports Empire
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flatliner333 View Post
http://www.pbnation.com/out.php?l=ht...%23post2738180

here is a link to some pictures of what i did ^^^
I used a S/S fitting I got from a place called Swagelock. It is a female 1/8 NPT that reduces down to about 3/16" to 1/4" or so. I threaded the smaller end and tapped a hole for it just behind the field strip screw hole in the valve. I then counter sunk the field strip hole in the rail so i could use a scew that would be flush on the underside of the rail.I made this hole big enough to accept the rail bushing (wich needs to be shortend) then drilled another hole behind this one for the S/S fitting to go through into the valve. Basically i attached the body to the rail,then the valve to the rail with the counter sunk screw, then the s/s fitting with a straight male macroline fitting attached through the rail and into the valve.I also cut the arm off the sear and welded a little hump on the bottom at the back of the sear (the solinoid is mounted verticle and pushes up on the back of the sear). Now that all of the important working parts are mounted directly to the rail it can all be moved forward on the trigger frame so that the macroline fitting going into the bottom of the valve can be positioned inside the trigger frame towards the back to leave room for the electronics. You then need to drill and tap two new holes in the rail to line up with the holes in the trigger frame so they can be attached together. It is important to note that the trigger frame i built for mine is 1" wide and there is alot of room to work with in there also my gun is only electric not electro pneumatic.

PS. I'm working on new build right now, different looking frame but same concept. I got really lucky on the first valve with no leak issues but the one I am working on now is fighting me....good luck.

If you do decide to drill a hole in the bottom of your valve make it small enough as to not be to close to the field strip hole or the wall that seperates the front and back halves of the valve.
LOL Swagelok, my mother works there and I worked there for a summer myself. This is the last place I expected to see that name. LOL hahahaha good luck buddy.
CarnageReigns is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2012, 06:11 PM #10
chris TS1438
 
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
the mag is laid out like it is for ease of use, breakdown, and assembly. The original RT automag is made with an integrated air system through the rail, but it is pretty much the same problem because the air system is still not internal. If you wanted to do this you would need to fill the original valve hole and tap a new one in the bottom, you would have to have a custom rail made, here is an extremely rough diagram. it kind of shows how you would have to work around the sear. getting rid of the sear isnt an option as stated before...the mag is THE sear tripper. its isnt a non balanced spool valve like a matrix. the spring pushes the bolt forward. here we go.


the dark red is the sear.
the purple is where you would have to run the air lines, which would require a taller rail with enough room for air fittings and a custom made sear.
the on off has to be avoided, as well as the sear as a whole.

Last edited by chris TS1438 : 04-25-2012 at 08:39 PM.
chris TS1438 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
Forum Jump