Just ordered a G6R? I hope you bought the pressure tester because I know you need it! Still clueless of what you have to do? Then this post is for you!
If you want to sweet spot the regs for the marker to work at its best but don't how to do it, keep reading! It is NOT rocket science!
1st off: READ THESE!
MANUAL:
http://www.boblongdirect.com/Product...ode=G6R+Manual
LURKER METHOD FOR BALANCING REGULATORS:
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...1#post45621901
(This method applies to ANY MARQ or INTIMIDATOR! In fact, any gun with a dual regulating system can be balanced! If you own something other then a G6R, find the manual on www.boblongdirect.com. I will refer to the gun in question as a G6R from now on. Replace with whatever Bob Long product you own!)
Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for your screw up while attempting this. If you are dumb enough to adjust your HPR to 300+PSI or LPR to 110+PSI, you have a VERY good chance of blowing your solenoid. Taking your time, and maybe stopping at the end of every step to attach your pressure tester and make sure you are nowhere close to these limits on either reg will help remedy the possible blow-out situation.
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If you are experienced with teching guns, reading the above links becomes pretty self explanatory on how to achieve your gun's best settings. Get to a chronograph with a manual and lets get to work! If you take your time, make sure you use small increments when you turn the adjustment screw on either regulator (1/16th of a turn) it should take about 10 mins and a bag of paint to pull this off. Once you get it shooting smooth at 300 FPS, plug in your tester and and record your settings! Simple!
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For those of us that aren't all that experienced, I 1st suggest just setting your pressures (using your tester) to the ones recorded on you QC card that you should have received with your gun. If these pressures result in 280-300 FPS, STOP SCREWING WITH IT AND JUST PLAY PAINTBALL. You can't wreck anything if you don't mess with it.
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SOMETIMES however, the QC card does not give a FPS of anywhere close to 300. This is where you need to learn how to balance your regulators yourself, and below is a detailed walkthrough.
Every gun is different, be it tolerances or reg harmonics or whatever. This means that every gun has a different optimal setting from the next, even within the same make/model of gun. Example: No 2 G6R's are going to act the same.
Before you continue, if you so choose, now is the time to make sure you put a drop of
BLUE(non-permanent, this is important!) loctite on the threads of the adjustment screws in BOTH regs. (Some people do not advocate this, as there are some people simply don't like loctite) This is to ensure vibrations via the gun shooting do not shake your adjustment screws out. Again, this is your choice, but if you choose to do so, ensure it is a NON-PERMANENT thread locker. You might also want to wait 24 hours after you reinsert your adjustment screws to allow the loctite to dry.
You can then follow the Lurker method
POSTED ABOVE!
By "sweet spotting" The regs, you are finding at what pressures YOUR SPECIFIC gun work the best at. By following the Lurker method, you find those appropriate pressures. (Be sure to use paint and the barrel you use most often. BE SURE to read your
MANUAL so you know which way to turn your adjustment screws, and only turn in SMALL increments, about 1/16th of a turn) Once you reach a "balanced" state with your regs, either increasing OR decreasing EITHER of your LPR or HPR, will actually result in a LOWER velocity of the paintball exiting the barrel. This is because the gun is inherently set at it's optimal settings: It CANT GET ANY BETTER.
Once you get your gun shooting at your DESIRED FPS (usually your field limit) with the regs balanced, you should have the best efficiency possible at that velocity, along with good consistency (little to no fluctuation in paintball FPS out the barrel), and no shootdown at high rates of fire, your gun is at this OPTIMAL STATE. It should also be the SMOOTHEST your gun can get at this point in time at that given FPS. This is because your LPR is now at the lowest setting possible while still achieving 300 FPS, thus reducing mechanical forces transferred to your hands.
Once you reach this state, STOP adjusting your regs. Take off your tank, (degass the gun) hopper, (remove any and all paintballs from your setup) pull off the barrel, and put your PRESSURE TESTER in its appropriate spot inline with the LPR (See
MANUAL). Then Re-attach your tank and gas up your marker. Your pressure tester now shows the pressures your gun is set at. RECORD THESE PRESSURE READINGS AND KEEP THE RESULTS SOMEWHERE SAFE IN YOUR GEARBAG. It should be a simple 2 numbers, for EXAMPLE: LPR at 78 PSI and HPR at 180 PSI.
NOW as long as you used
BLUE loctite on your adjustment screws, your gun should STAY at this optimal setting, thus eliminating the need to adjust your regs for a while (5-10 cases according to your MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE in the
MANUAL. I only do the full Lurker method once per YEAR, but I would also suggest re-balancing if your playing conditions change drastically IE Summer vs Winter). The only thing you should theoretically need to change your regs for now is to achieve a different velocity (IE: playing reball).
Once you reach the time where your regs need servicing or adjusting, (IE: velocity fluctuations, dirt/debris in the regs, leaks, are all signs that you need to do some maintenance) this is where the PRESSURE TESTER comes in.
Doing the maintenance requires (for a lot of timmys/marqs) you to change/remove your adjustment screws for either reg or both. This causes a problem: Your regs are no longer BALANCED after your maintenance. The PRESSURE TESTER is used at this point. Attach your pressure tester at this point. Simply turn your adjustment screws on both regs until your tester reads the pressures you recorded earlier. BAM! Done. No spending 15 mins and 500 paintballs going through the Lurker method again.
