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Old 03-17-2012, 07:44 AM #22
lifeisgood765
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Old 03-20-2012, 03:13 PM #23
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tried this and im low 250's with a dwell of 4, boss v2 bolt, standard spring and the asa reading 200psi although im beginning to think it may be the barrel bore is to large at .688, i will have to try again with a tighter barrel something like a .684 and see if that makes any huge difference
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Old 03-20-2012, 03:24 PM #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruceuk View Post
tried this and im low 250's with a dwell of 4, boss v2 bolt, standard spring and the asa reading 200psi although im beginning to think it may be the barrel bore is to large at .688, i will have to try again with a tighter barrel something like a .684 and see if that makes any huge difference
Yeah, if you drop a ball in the brrel and pretty much see a gap all the way around the ball, your bore is way too big.
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Old 03-24-2012, 12:40 AM #25
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Just out of sheer curiosity, if you would have an upgrade bolt and spring kit, could you start the pressure lower than 180? Would there be any positive outcomes of that? Negative?
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Old 03-24-2012, 10:22 AM #26
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I ran my Axe at 120psi for a while, so yes.
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Old 03-24-2012, 10:45 AM #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ewagnerd9311 View Post
Just out of sheer curiosity, if you would have an upgrade bolt and spring kit, could you start the pressure lower than 180? Would there be any positive outcomes of that? Negative?
The highest OP I've heard of people using with a Lurker Eigenbolt or Boss Bolt is around 150psi, so I'd say it would be fine to start the tuning guide around 150-170psi with either of those bolts.

Not 100% sure, but I think the closer you are to your final settings when you start tuning, the better. If you started at 180psi, adjusted the back cap and dwell there, then lowered pressure, the back cap and dwell might be un-optimized at the lower pressure (say 140psi). It would be good to go back and optimize the back cap and dwell again starting at the lower pressure. You might find that those settings need to change at that point.
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Old 03-24-2012, 11:14 AM #28
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Yeah when testing lurker's eigenbolt we established that the back cap had a spot where it gave the highest velocity, and still wasn't fully open. I found that spot to be exactly 1.5 turns on my marker. I just tuned my gun yesterday, getting it ready to cycle a few cases. Pretty much the same sorta thing as on here.

I'm using a .682 bore, shooting valken redemption. Lurker eigenbolt w/ stock spring.

-Start the pressure at 160psi.
-Adjust the back cap out, taking shots between adjustments. Sweet spotted at 1.5 turns out from all the way in.
-Lower pressure until shooting at desired fps (160psi down to 140psi)
-Lower closing dwell (completely apparently) until fps starts to drop
-Lower open dwell (stock 7ms down to 5ms) until you see your fps start to drop.

Final settings: 140psi, 5ms open dwell, 5ms closing dwell, 280fps +/-2

gun is crazy smooth, i have one 012 oring on the bolt guide, closest to the poppet. gives me a good shot and allows me to run about 15psi lower than if I had two 012 on the bolt guide.
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Old 03-24-2012, 12:05 PM #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teahouser View Post
Yeah when testing lurker's eigenbolt we established that the back cap had a spot where it gave the highest velocity, and still wasn't fully open. I found that spot to be exactly 1.5 turns on my marker. I just tuned my gun yesterday, getting it ready to cycle a few cases. Pretty much the same sorta thing as on here.

I'm using a .682 bore, shooting valken redemption. Lurker eigenbolt w/ stock spring.

-Start the pressure at 160psi.
-Adjust the back cap out, taking shots between adjustments. Sweet spotted at 1.5 turns out from all the way in.
-Lower pressure until shooting at desired fps (160psi down to 140psi)
-Lower closing dwell (completely apparently) until fps starts to drop
-Lower open dwell (stock 7ms down to 5ms) until you see your fps start to drop.

Final settings: 140psi, 5ms open dwell, 5ms closing dwell, 280fps +/-2

gun is crazy smooth, i have one 012 oring on the bolt guide, closest to the poppet. gives me a good shot and allows me to run about 15psi lower than if I had two 012 on the bolt guide.
I'm going to try those settings tomorrow, I have my #12 on that spot too. Does your gun break paint?

Last edited by SNAKESNIPER : 03-24-2012 at 12:10 PM.
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Old 03-24-2012, 12:35 PM #30
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Originally Posted by SNAKESNIPER View Post
I'm going to try those settings tomorrow, I have my #12 on that spot too. Does your gun break paint?
Once I set my eigenbolt up I haven't chopped a single ball with it. Last season I was having an issue of getting a lot of barrel breaks, and was wondering why. It turned out my rotor loader had a bit too high of a tension setting so it was cracking some balls in the breach. Once i lowered it my gun has worked great.

My next text for oring matches is putting a harder rubber 016 on the outside of the spacer. a 90 duro instead of 70 might tighten that seal up a bit and smooth the shot out even more. I'll let you know.
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Old 03-24-2012, 12:45 PM #31
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Originally Posted by Teahouser View Post
Once I set my eigenbolt up I haven't chopped a single ball with it. Last season I was having an issue of getting a lot of barrel breaks, and was wondering why. It turned out my rotor loader had a bit too high of a tension setting so it was cracking some balls in the breach. Once i lowered it my gun has worked great.

My next text for oring matches is putting a harder rubber 016 on the outside of the spacer. a 90 duro instead of 70 might tighten that seal up a bit and smooth the shot out even more. I'll let you know.
Please do!

I was breaking virtually NO paint when I was running 120PSI @ 6.75 dwell, and it was extremely smooth and quiet but really inefficient. I had to fill about once every 3 games.

Now that I use a 50/45 instead of my old 68/45, efficiency is becoming a bit more of a concern.
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Old 03-24-2012, 01:01 PM #32
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Originally Posted by SNAKESNIPER View Post
Please do!

I was breaking virtually NO paint when I was running 120PSI @ 6.75 dwell, and it was extremely smooth and quiet but really inefficient. I had to fill about once every 3 games.

Now that I use a 50/45 instead of my old 68/45, efficiency is becoming a bit more of a concern.
Yeah the lowest pressure I was able to run was around 120-130psi. I had to have my open dwell at 7.5ms, a little higher then stock and it shot at around 270fps. I didn't like having the pressure that low though, especially with the stock spring.

Try my settings, give or take 1ms or so for the dwell. I'm sure you'll have around the same numbers, probably even a bit better dwell then mine. My virtue board lets me adjust closing dwell, but only down to 5ms. When I lowered it from the stock 9ms to the lowest setting of 5ms I saw no decrease in fps, and it actually rose 3-4fps! I wish it would let me set it lower, I'm curious to just how fast the eigenbolt's return stroke is compared to stock, since it allows both the solenoid ports to exhaust air at the end of the stroke instead of just the one (the one with the air restrictor in it as well) like the stock bolt with the two outer orings.

I couldn't be happier with it's smoothness and well as efficiency.
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Old 03-24-2012, 02:40 PM #33
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@ the OP:With tuning with this method should we keep the stock dwell of 7ms (stock bolt).

Thanks in advance
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Old 03-24-2012, 04:39 PM #34
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@ the OP:With tuning with this method should we keep the stock dwell of 7ms (stock bolt).

Thanks in advance
After tuning the back cap and pressure, lower the dwell .5ms at a time down from the stock 7ms. Once the dwell makes the fps start to drop or become inconsistent, raise it back up .5ms. Now you're not wasting air keeping the solenoid open, so it'll be a bit more efficient.
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Old 03-24-2012, 06:42 PM #35
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@ Teahouser,

Thank you.

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Old 03-24-2012, 08:03 PM #36
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These people are right. If you have after market bolts start with a lower pressure.
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Old 03-28-2012, 01:00 AM #37
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video?!
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Old 03-30-2012, 02:17 PM #38
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I tried this method, but could only get my velocity to peak around 307 during the back cap phase. Got my operating pressure down to around 150, and shooting ~280, but my velocity fluctuates wildly from 260-290.

.681 Barrel, matched paint through the whole process.

Any suggestions? Before trying this method, it was very consistent chrono'ing from 280-290.

All stock V3 mini, no mods.

Stock dwell, have not done the last step yet.
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Old 03-30-2012, 02:20 PM #39
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I tried this method, but could only get my velocity to peak around 307 during the back cap phase. Got my operating pressure down to around 150, and shooting ~280, but my velocity fluctuates wildly from 260-290.

.681 Barrel, matched paint through the whole process.

Any suggestions? Before trying this method, it was very consistent chrono'ing from 280-290.

All stock V3 mini, no mods.

Stock dwell, have not done the last step yet.
re-lube your poppet o-ring
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Old 04-05-2012, 09:44 AM #40
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nice...
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Old 05-02-2012, 12:50 PM #41
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many thanks Pro98!
i followed your instructions and was able to get my axe shooting consistently around 294 +/- 5.
got the best results with a PSI of 155, back cap 1 and 1/2 turns out with the dwell set to 3.5 mill sec.
thanks again!!
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Old 05-02-2012, 02:48 PM #42
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yep, this is the best strat for tuning axes/mini's. sweet spotting the reg. 98pro is the man when it comes to anything axe!
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