[tasty taco]

Originally Posted by Pirate Mafia

Its a RC lift, hard to hack job a 4" lift when not much needs to be done. Maybe if it was a 4 link that statement would stand.

You can still **** up the lift. I never want anything lifted. But thats just me.

[Pirate Mafia]

Originally Posted by tasty taco

You can still **** up the lift. I never want anything lifted. But thats just me.

Coils seated correctly? Check. Leaf springs bolted on to hangers? Check. U Bolts on? Check. Shocks bolted in? Check. 5 minutes the the lift is looked over and confirmed to be installed correctly. You're making it sound like it has the specifics and difficulty of correctly building a 4 link, when its really just bolting on new parts.

[imped4now]

Originally Posted by tasty taco

You can still **** up the lift. I never want anything lifted. But thats just me.

"Lifted" is a stupid phrase....it tells you or anyone else nothing of importance. There's a lot more to suspension than that. More distance between the axles and frame doesn't hurt anything as long as you address everything that needs to be addressed properly. Doing it right isn't nearly as cheap and easy as some seem to think, especially when you're dealing with a link setup. Unfortunately, most people don't think it out logically because they lack the technical understanding to do so.

Originally Posted by Pirate Mafia

Coils seated correctly? Check. Leaf springs bolted on to hangers? Check. U Bolts on? Check. Shocks bolted in? Check. 5 minutes the the lift is looked over and confirmed to be installed correctly. You're making it sound like it has the specifics and difficulty of correctly building a 4 link, when its really just bolting on new parts.

Properly going up +4" on a link suspension involves a lot more than that. Properly running the tires that come along with that much room and the associated terrain that you'll be in requires even more.

As for the WJ in that link, it really tells me nothing about the suspension. Proper bump stops for the given shock and wheel travel? Properly setup drag link/track bar relationship? What kind of ends are the control arms using? He's just mentioning the tip of the iceberg, which is enough for most people. Definitely not enough for someone with a bit of education on the subjects.

[trickedinferno]

a little bling on a long arm'd xj

[p8ntfreak98]

this happened. passenger side


Solution: remove driver side sway bar end-link.

[Add That]

This thread just made me buy a jeep by impulse decision.. Pics soon

[p8ntfreak98]

removed my sway bar end links yesterday. They were so rusted and stuck that even after i soaked them in PB Blast the night before, the driver side wouldnt budge. That resulted in having to cut the bolt with my homemade hacksaw


Then I also got a new front bumper from my friends neighbor, he had a stock one sitting around in his yard and gave it to me cause it was taking up room. My old one was rusted pretty terribly, and also had a nice sized dent in it from hitting a tree at around 30mph.

went from this: (best picture i have)


to this:

[DuskHAZE]

Hey guys, new member here. figured I'd go ahead and post in the jeep thread.

here is my wj, as posted in the "post your cars/trucks" thread.

[tasty taco]

Originally Posted by imped4now

"Lifted" is a stupid phrase....it tells you or anyone else nothing of importance. There's a lot more to suspension than that. More distance between the axles and frame doesn't hurt anything as long as you address everything that needs to be addressed properly. Doing it right isn't nearly as cheap and easy as some seem to think, especially when you're dealing with a link setup. Unfortunately, most people don't think it out logically because they lack the technical understanding to do so.

Properly going up +4" on a link suspension involves a lot more than that. Properly running the tires that come along with that much room and the associated terrain that you'll be in requires even more.

As for the WJ in that link, it really tells me nothing about the suspension. Proper bump stops for the given shock and wheel travel? Properly setup drag link/track bar relationship? What kind of ends are the control arms using? He's just mentioning the tip of the iceberg, which is enough for most people. Definitely not enough for someone with a bit of education on the subjects.

Believe me I know all about that lol.






Overnight. I cried my ****ing eyes out.






Niner $5,800
coils: $348
claytons: $975
IRO: $1800
aussie :$320
tires: $1,400
rims: $348
JKS: $200
gears: $510
axle: 250
labor:475
drive shaft:50
axke shafts:150
sliders: $330
Total: $12,956

[DuskHAZE]

I actually saw that on either jeepforum or jeepsunlimited or something. Sorry to see that happen, I was in love with the build you had going

[tasty taco]

It's jeepforum. Are you on there? Link to your build? And thank you, 12 months down the drain and all my savings.. I wish I had it back =(. I teared up posting the pics just now.

[DuskHAZE]

Originally Posted by Pirate Mafia

Its a RC lift, hard to hack job a 4" lift when not much needs to be done. Maybe if it was a 4 link that statement would stand.

First off, it's a WJ. there are 2 uppers and 2 lower control arms on the front. and a 3 link rear.

RC lifts are crap for the wj, and incomplete. Plus, I bet that 6inch lift is still on short arms.

The 4.7 ho is a fine engine and those overlands hold great value. However, it is easy to hack job a WJ lift, and I bet it has been done.

[DuskHAZE]

Originally Posted by tasty taco

It's jeepforum. Are you on there? Link to your build? And thank you, 12 months down the drain and all my savings.. I wish I had it back =(. I teared up posting the pics just now.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/...build-1272851/

Yeah, i love niners, I remember reading your thread. As for my build thread, I don't keep up with that **** at all, but I do a lot of lurking...

[tasty taco]

Yeah, you posted after I stopped going on Jeepforum until I just got my new niner! I'll read it when I wake up!

[Pirate Mafia]

Originally Posted by DuskHAZE

First off, it's a WJ. there are 2 uppers and 2 lower control arms on the front. and a 3 link rear.

RC lifts are crap for the wj, and incomplete. Plus, I bet that 6inch lift is still on short arms.

The 4.7 ho is a fine engine and those overlands hold great value. However, it is easy to hack job a WJ lift, and I bet it has been done.

Heres my fun
1. RC doesnt sell a 4" kit that doesnt come without lengthened CA's or a track bar relocation bracket.

2. Rausch Creek Events or Moab Excursion, two events I go to and I host one at Rausch. Majority of the guys that actually make it through the trips have either their own pieced together kit, RE, BDS or RC. Why? Because they tend to flex phenomenally and are quite good quality. Fabtech tends to have the hardest time staying together.

3. Its easy to hack any lift, but its about 10x easier to spot if it was done correctly or not.

4. Im going back on pirate now cause this forum likes to turn into a joke every now and then.

[DuskHAZE]

Originally Posted by Pirate Mafia

Heres my fun
1. RC doesnt sell a 4" kit that doesnt come without lengthened CA's or a track bar relocation bracket.

2. Rausch Creek Events or Moab Excursion, two events I go to and I host one at Rausch. Majority of the guys that actually make it through the trips have either their own pieced together kit, RE, BDS or RC. Why? Because they tend to flex phenomenally and are quite good quality. Fabtech tends to have the hardest time staying together.

3. Its easy to hack any lift, but its about 10x easier to spot if it was done correctly or not.

4. Im going back on pirate now cause this forum likes to turn into a joke every now and then.

1. Track Bar relocation brackets are a joke and shouldn't even be used on a wj. Not too mention they have a small non-adjustable track bar.
2. RC is cheap and a lot of people buy em, I'll admit, they have a great warranty on their parts. RE and BDS are great companies.
3. Yes, most people can find if it was done correctly or not, I'm assuming he can't as he was posting here for advice.
4. see you on pirate4x4

Don't take my comments the wrong way, I was just saying... I'm pretty familiar with WJs and i bet thats a standard RC $500 dollar lift with 2 inch pucks thrown on top or not far from it, hence the comment. I'm running some select RC parts on my pieced together lift, but i've heard bad things about bushing integrities, relocation brackets, and track bars. Keep in mind, I'm only talking about WJ lifts.

[Pirate Mafia]

Originally Posted by DuskHAZE

1. Track Bar relocation brackets are a joke and shouldn't even be used on a wj. Not too mention they have a small non-adjustable track bar.
2. RC is cheap and a lot of people buy em, I'll admit, they have a great warranty on their parts. RE and BDS are great companies.
3. Yes, most people can find if it was done correctly or not, I'm assuming he can't as he was posting here for advice.
4. see you on pirate4x4

Don't take my comments the wrong way, I was just saying... I'm pretty familiar with WJs and i bet thats a standard RC $500 dollar lift with 2 inch pucks thrown on top or not far from it, hence the comment. I'm running some select RC parts on my pieced together lift, but i've heard bad things about bushing integrities, relocation brackets, and track bars. Keep in mind, I'm only talking about WJ lifts.

I semi-agree about the brackets, granted you weld them on correctly I see no problem with them as the angles are corrected once again. I dont agree with the spacers, but I have had no problems with RC, just like I have had no problems with BDS or RE, actually I blew out a BDS shock but whether it was the driver or quality is subjective. Ive only lifted 3 WJ's, my knowledge does not extend as far in regards to them when compared to XJ's or other trucks.

[tasty taco]

Pieced together is the way to go. My lift had Iron rock offroad front longarms and steering, clayton springs and rear long arms, i had a ton of JKS parts, and then the G2 4.88 gears. I was going to build this one but I might just buy an IRO kit.

[imped4now]

Taco, I remember seeing your rig.....that's tough man.

I guess I should update on what I'm up to right now. The TJ is finally getting some wheelbase. I'm pushing the rear axle back 6" for a grand total of 101"--new lower links will be 2" x .25" wall DOM with 1.25" shank 2.5" Currie JJ's on both ends. They will be about 23" eye to eye. The new upper links will be 1.5" x .120 wall DOM with 1" shank 2.5" JJ's on both ends and will be about 28" long. I'll be going with new Savvy aluminum blank corners so that I can cutout the wheel well myself and Savvy LJ length rocker guards that I'll trim to fit. It'll look as slick and as factory as a highly modified, stretched TJ can look. I also sold my flare'd Rokmen highline fenders and got a new set that are flareless. I cut the rear frame off and am building a new one out of 2x3" rectangular tubing. The coil buckets will be set so that my current RC 2.5" progressive springs sit me at 19" belly clearance with a level stance and the shock mounts will be of the bent DOM variety with a tied in C-pillar mount as well. While I'm at it, the rig is getting cleaned and a fresh coat of paint (already hit the rear). The front axle is also out--I'll be torching off the stock mounts tonight, flapping it all smooth, and welding on some link, coil, and shock mounts from Clayton. It's also getting inner sleeves and C gussets.

Needless to say, I'm putting my new welder to work.

Fenders tacked up:


Teaser pic from behind:


Approx tire placement:


Rear frame:

[tasty taco]

Beyond jealous.

[DuskHAZE]

Thats a great build, you stretching the frame? LCOG eh