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Old 09-14-2004, 03:42 PM #1
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FAQ\Maintenance\Modification Links

Here is the stickey thread for FAQ's, Maintenance and Mofications that was requested. Feel free to add any information you think is useful to everyone.

Please keep all posts on topic or they will be deleted.

TorridX
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My TX is Not cocking

Last edited by magik : 10-28-2005 at 08:11 AM.
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Old 09-14-2004, 04:23 PM #2
daveczrn
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Odessey 03

body is modified from a autococker body so
cocker ball detents
cocker asa's will fit but the LPR hose will need to be re-routed
Installing a QEV on the ram will help the ram cycle faster

it was originally though that it would take cocker valves but i have found that to be false.... i will find one that will fit though.


I will add modifications to this as i see fit.
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Last edited by daveczrn : 09-15-2004 at 08:12 PM.
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Old 09-14-2004, 08:14 PM #3
pro_balla70462
 
 
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davecrzn... if u bought a cocker VA... wouldnt the LPR front hose fit thru the hole in the cocker VA that is built for the 3-way rod? I noticed that lookin at some 15 degree VA's
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Old 09-14-2004, 08:34 PM #4
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Quote:
Originally posted by pro_balla70462
davecrzn... if u bought a cocker VA... wouldnt the LPR front hose fit thru the hole in the cocker VA that is built for the 3-way rod? I noticed that lookin at some 15 degree VA's
i bought an aftermarket cocker VA (made by shocktech) for my O3. normally on a cocker, the side with the hole that is used for the 3way actuator arm is on the right side of the marker (right side, with the barrel facing away from you / back end of the marker facing you). but since i need this hole on the left side for the LPR hose, i just simply turned it around. but this particular shocktech VA wasn't wide enough to fit around the O3 body so it had to be milled out a bit.

but since you're looking into a 15* asa, turning it around for the hole to be on the left side will pose problems for you because reversing it will have the asa pointed right into your trigger frame.
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Old 09-16-2004, 02:09 PM #5
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and from the way i understand it, there wouldnt be anyway for the reverse 15* VA to fit without taking out the trigger guard... damnitt.. o well... if someone produces a 15* VA, LMK
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Old 09-25-2004, 08:52 AM #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by CornMonkey

but since you're looking into a 15* asa, turning it around for the hole to be on the left side will pose problems for you because reversing it will have the asa pointed right into your trigger frame.


with a 15* wouldnt you just be able to get a longer hose and feed it through the right and then to the left?
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Old 09-27-2004, 03:26 PM #7
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thats what I was wandering, and If the O3 is anything like T1, the hose is PLENTY long enuf to do that...
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Old 09-27-2004, 07:07 PM #8
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if its not long enough just buy a 1' piece of cocker hose and make it long enough
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Old 09-27-2004, 07:19 PM #9
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i think they use a tad bigger hose than the cocker hose for some reason...
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Old 10-17-2004, 09:14 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by pro_balla70462
and from the way i understand it, there wouldnt be anyway for the reverse 15* VA to fit without taking out the trigger guard... damnitt.. o well... if someone produces a 15* VA, LMK

you could make one by Extending the VA then having it reversed..im gonna make one
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Old 01-02-2005, 01:28 PM #11
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Additional O2 Maintenance

I spent some time the other day trying to get the O2 to shoot in its prime. I have discovered some things that can hopefully help a lot.

Additional O2 Maintenance! (Some optional)..

**First-- Of all the lubrication I have used on the O2--Dow 33 is almost a must for the O2!! This is where I have noticed the biggest difference in performance. I know there is some other stuff available, but itís going to be hard to beat Dow 33. I really donít care what others think, but just use the stuff on everything= primarily the regs and the ram! This stuff just helps with everything-including FSDO.

**Second-- I also noticed a difference by putting Teflon tape on the fittings. I know it seems silly, but it really did help.

**I have found that the O2 functions very well (at least for me) at a lower pressure then designated by the manual. I have the LPR screwed about half way and the HP is at 230-250 with the dwell set at 7.

**Ball detent!! At first I was having problems with double feeds on my detent, but then I decided to take the small o-ring off and use teflon tape on the threads. (Therefore allowing my to set the detent into the breech further) This has eliminated my problems with the double feeding.

**Another couple side notes... When I received my O2 I noticed that the front LPR was not screwed in all the way due to the fitting being to far away from the ram hose. Basically the LPR is not screwed in all the way and held in place by a small screw. What I did is take the LPR and screw it in all the way and tightened it. The ram hose should reach the fitting even though it is further away. Believe it or not, I noticed a difference in consistency by doing this. ALSO,, as with any electro--make sure the battery is always fresh!!!! AND high quality--I cant stress this enough!
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Old 01-03-2005, 01:02 PM #12
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when i lube up my O3 i use lithium on the regs and pmi on the bolt, ram and orings...the lithium is too thick for moving parts imo...its what works for me
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Old 01-05-2005, 01:54 PM #13
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ill just start posting things about the TX as i find them. i was messing around with my frame yesterday, and found that if you want to adjust the trigger, you can use an allen wrench to turn the key behind it. once you take the frame off, looking down inside the trigger, there is a hole on the back on the near top of the trigger. if its kinda confusing what im saying, just take the frame off and you'll see it on the trigger. its not huge, but i gained 1 bps from it, and as of now im trying to get this thing as fast as possible stock. and right now with thr stock trigger i cant get passed 14. i may try some magnets. but yeah, the trigger is adjustable
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Old 01-06-2005, 02:21 AM #14
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logical monkey.... you have to shoot it to release the pressure inside the gun after you adjust it. thats why it still leaks.

yeh there was a thread for putting a zeni trigger on a torid... and i need it cuz im retarted.....
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Old 01-06-2005, 05:54 PM #15
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thank medicman5000

luckily i found this in one of my old threads

Zenitram T1 Trigger on a Torrid X
So heres the quick nitty gritty on how to install a Zenitram T1 trigger on a TX. I give it a 2 on a difficulty scale. The TX trigger does not have a switch plate installed on it. The stock trigger uses direct contact to depress the switch. To do this you will need to buy a switch at radio shack that has the switch plate. This is the only modification you will have to do.

1. Take the grip frame off the body.

2. Remove the trigger pin using a solid pointed object. I like to use a nail punch. Be sure to hit the pin on the side opposite side of the groved star patterned side.

3. Remove old cheep asss stock trigger. It makes a good key chain.

4. Remove the switch plate from the switch you purchaced and install it on to the TX switch. You dont have to remove the switch to do this. Some nice needle nose pliers are usefull here.




5. Lock-tite all your set screws on the zenny and install into the marker.

6. Set all your pull and trigger contact point to your style of trigger pull.





7. stare in amazement at how much nicer the trigger is and ask yourslef "why cant they do this crap at the factory?!?!?!"

8. let the lock-tite dry.

9. sell the perfectly good trigger switch that you rapped of a switch plate to a Duragun TES or T1 owner.
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Last edited by coolblondeguy14 : 01-11-2005 at 11:38 PM.
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Old 01-09-2005, 09:45 PM #16
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Quote:
when i lube up my O3 i use lithium on the regs and pmi on the bolt, ram and orings...the lithium is too thick for moving parts imo...its what works for me
I dont want to sound controversial, but If lithium grease is not meant for moving parts then what is it meant for??? I see people say this all the time, and it dont make sense to me. Grease is specifically designed to be used for moving parts. So is oil. My point is,, when I got my O2 from odyssey I took it apart and inspected everything. One of the first things I noticed on the RAM was a gob of grease,, (likely dow 33)--has a distinct smell. Therefore it is safe to assume that Odyssey preffers grease on the ram. For awhile I did not have any Dow 33 and was using other stuff, like white lithium grease (which for the most part worked). BUT, when I was able to get my hands on som dow 33, I put it on everything (regs AND ram (even the spring)--- my gun shoots OHH so much better.

The main thing to worry about is where you lube and how much you use--so you dont get any in the noid.
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Last edited by mountainexplorer1 : 01-09-2005 at 09:47 PM.
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Old 01-16-2005, 08:08 PM #17
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I dont have the manual available anymore.
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Old 01-16-2005, 11:35 PM #18
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Well, the manual is Copyrighted. As soon as you write something original down, it is Copyrighted. However, your reproduction here is highly unlikely to be considered infringment. So, thanks. ALso, is the O3e manual that detailed? Because the one online seems to skip a few things. Great job though.
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Old 01-16-2005, 11:40 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by mountainexplorer1
I dont want to sound controversial, but If lithium grease is not meant for moving parts then what is it meant for??? I see people say this all the time, and it dont make sense to me. Grease is specifically designed to be used for moving parts. So is oil. My point is,, when I got my O2 from odyssey I took it apart and inspected everything. One of the first things I noticed on the RAM was a gob of grease,, (likely dow 33)--has a distinct smell. Therefore it is safe to assume that Odyssey preffers grease on the ram. For awhile I did not have any Dow 33 and was using other stuff, like white lithium grease (which for the most part worked). BUT, when I was able to get my hands on som dow 33, I put it on everything (regs AND ram (even the spring)--- my gun shoots OHH so much better.

The main thing to worry about is where you lube and how much you use--so you dont get any in the noid.
I know what you mean but when i put lithium on the blot and ram it kinda "stuck" and with the PMI oil it moves better withought hang up...just be sure to use lthium/dow33 on the regs.
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Old 01-17-2005, 12:26 AM #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by MyMonkey
Well, the manual is Copyrighted. As soon as you write something original down, it is Copyrighted. However, your reproduction here is highly unlikely to be considered infringment. So, thanks. ALso, is the O3e manual that detailed? Because the one online seems to skip a few things. Great job though.
What I meant was is there is no copyright information printed in the manual itself. There is nothing that says it is illegal to reprint it or redistribute it either. The way I figure it, only o3m owner's are going to be interested in this manual and they are legally entitled to it as they should have got a copy with their marker.

In the end, it's nothing too amazing in this manual. Just some basic info and maintenance recommendations, etc. The diagram is useful though as it has a complete parts list including part numbers so if you need to get a replacement part you know exactly which one you need.

I don't know anything about the o3e manual (paper or online form) so I can't help you there.

Paul
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Old 01-27-2005, 07:19 PM #21
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wut is a diode jumper? can it be put in a torid x?
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