Find fields & stores near you!
Find fields and stores
Zipcode
PbNation News
PbNation News
Community Focus
Community Focus

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 03-07-2012, 12:51 AM #1
RojPup
 
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Richmond Hill, GA
Noob alert (need help with planning a tank build)

I'm new to the idea of tanking. I find myself being a pretty mechanically inclined individual, but there are a few things that I am working out and want to run by the veterans on here who can tell me if I am on the right track or if I should try something else.

I NEED *CONSTRUCTIVE* CRITICISM. This will be my first tank design

Here are my main concerns and/or ideas:
  • I've looked around for various designs on making a main gun for my tank. I really like the idea for a sprinkler valve, but i have NO idea how they work and therefore I'm having snags on my idea. I do wish to have a breech-loading system on my main gun (be it a slide breech or making my own toilet flange based launcher).

  • My chassis will be a mid-sized pickup truck, most likely a 98 Dodge. I have a ladder rack that looks to be made from 1" box iron so it should be a decent top chassis for building up the main compartment of my tank. The compartment will be made with 1/2"+ plywood. The doors will be removed as well as the tailgate unless I can use it in my design.

    Glass will be removed professionally. I work closely with a local body shop and I do have access to their tools, welders, and their paint booth for when the time comes to finish it up.
  • I'm looking at the pallet carousels as a good rotating mount, and I have been fiddling around with the idea of making the it a mechanically rotating turret via belt and some sort of starter or other motor. How to reverse the direction or rotation is one of my concerns. My goal is to have a seated gunner operating a pedal on the foot rest and having both hands free to load/fire the main gun and double A-5's/X7's/98 Cyclones.

    Rotation speed could be controlled by a potentiometer within the system. Anyone know any designs that could incorporate this? It might not be needed if my pulley ratio is low enough.

    Belt would most likely be a couple "emergency repair" belts found at just about any gas station or auto parts store. They are cut to length and held together with a couple bolts and small plates. They are designed to be a temporary emergency fix to get you down the road until you can get a new belt. At such a low RPM and tension they should last at least a couple seasons. I will incorporate a belt guard as the belt will be outside of the tank.
  • Air source will be via a Aluminum scuba tank. I have fiddled with the idea of the tank being mounted behind or under the gunner's seat so I could have permanent hoses ran and allowing for virtually 360 degrees of rotation. I would most likely have a 48/3000 tank hooked up to my fill yoke with a system of remote lines.

    Wires are cheaper and easier to replace than hoses, so the twisting of wires would be dealt with later and as it comes up. I'd pretty much have to wait until I have the seat and electrical design laid out.
  • Electrical power for the turret would be via a marine battery. This 12v supply could also be used for firing the cannon if the design allows.

________________________________________

I know i have forgot some things but I am scatterbrained right now. This should at least help me sit and look at design ideas and re-think some plans I had. Until then this should at least help me out.
__________________
RojPup is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Sponsored Links Remove Advertisement
Advertisement
Old 03-07-2012, 06:57 AM #2
CNCRouterman
 
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
You have a pretty good start, just by being able to itemize and verbalize the main goals. Good on you.

Sprinkler valves: I am not the best choice to describe their inner workings, some other folks here are better, but the short story is that you use a small valve, like an air blow gun or electric selonoid to actuate the main valve. How fast the main valve actuates ( important for efficiency and consistancy ) is a function of how fast you can actuate the pilot valve, and some other technical stuff. My prototypes use 24 volt DC air selenoids, and are very efficient and very fast. I use 3 nine-volt batteries in series to get 27 volts. The batteries last a very long time, so for the Nerf cannon, a marine battery is a waste of space and weight.

Chassis:
Personal opinion; make sure to do two things.
1.) Roll cage.
2.) Build the turret such that it cannot be "swept" off by a tree branch or other low clearance obstacle. This is Paint ball, not the French revolution, no Guillotines allowed!

Pallet carousel:
Good choice. As for controlling the motor for both bi-direction and speed. A VFD and 3 phase motor are an option. You won't need a very big motor, so the VFD can be found at an industrial electric surplus vendor. The guys on Electric Vehicle sites are discussing hacks for these to control their traction motors and feed the main bus with DC power anyway. You just want one with a potentiometer input for RPM control, and a simple input for direction, specifically that can be remote, like a momentary contact button/switch. This is a conceptual suggestion, I do not have the wherewithal to provide a full schematic on this.

Air source, not much to say, that is what I would suggest.

Power source.
If the gunner goes for a ride with the turret, then so can the battery. You can also consider a slip ring to draw either primary power or charging power from the vehicles charging system. If you use the VFD package, it gets a little tougher, as you may need more batteries to get the requisite voltate required, though, of course, small and mid sized inverters are much more affordable these days, and a deep cycle or two plus a 1500 watt or so inverter will provide Lots of power for whatever.
This all presumes you need the battery(ies) in the turret. You can mount the turret traverse motor and all its gear except the control to the hull, so it is stationary. Then you just need to come up with a way to get the control signal from the gunner to the motor. A slip ring or rotary electrical connection would be the direction I would look. A mechanical means is not out of the question either, but will require exercising a few brain cells for a bit to work that out.

You may want to consider, given the concept for traversing the turret you started with, to have the turret alignment be your course aiming and allow the Nerf cannon in it to have 10 to 20 degrees of traverse within the turret, and the gunner operate this literally by hand. The first PB tanks I crewed were like this, and they provide a faster target acquisition than tracking the entire turret on the target. The advantage to a fixed traverse (within the turret) is that the Nerf cannot aim is much more stable, though slower. So, when firing off the Coax, you can easily walk the anti-personnel rounds right onto the target. Useful for trying to shoot between the slats of a fence, or between the trees.
__________________
Tower: "TWA 2341, for noise abatement turn right 45 Degrees."

TWA 2341: "Center, we are at 35,000 feet. How much noise can we make up here?"

Tower: "Sir, have you ever heard the noise a 747 makes when it hits a 727?"
CNCRouterman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2012, 04:48 PM #3
BlackAngelSS
The Black Korps
 
BlackAngelSS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
a sprinkler valve air cannon will do you just fine.just make sure it is built safe and your local field allows it.some require "manufactured" launchers
__________________
SS Brigadeführer A.Deckmann
CO 1.SS Panzer Division LSSAH & 1.SS Panzer Korps
Team Captain"The Black Korps"

http://1sspanzerkorps.com/
BlackAngelSS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2012, 05:06 PM #4
RojPup
 
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Richmond Hill, GA
Quote:
Originally Posted by CNCRouterman View Post
Chassis:
Personal opinion; make sure to do two things.
1.) Roll cage.
2.) Build the turret such that it cannot be "swept" off by a tree branch or other low clearance obstacle. This is Paint ball, not the French revolution, no Guillotines allowed!
The turret itself will be pretty much a roll cage itself. The seat will have a seat belt, and I'm currently eying up a Volvo seat that we have in our impound yard since the 3-point seat belt is built into the seat unlike most other cars where it goes to the frame of the car.

The turret can easily be held in place by welding 4 L brackets at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o-clock on the inside of the turret.

Quote:
Power source.
If the gunner goes for a ride with the turret, then so can the battery. You can also consider a slip ring to draw either primary power or charging power from the vehicles charging system. If you use the VFD package, it gets a little tougher, as you may need more batteries to get the requisite voltate required, though, of course, small and mid sized inverters are much more affordable these days, and a deep cycle or two plus a 1500 watt or so inverter will provide Lots of power for whatever.
This all presumes you need the battery(ies) in the turret. You can mount the turret traverse motor and all its gear except the control to the hull, so it is stationary. Then you just need to come up with a way to get the control signal from the gunner to the motor. A slip ring or rotary electrical connection would be the direction I would look. A mechanical means is not out of the question either, but will require exercising a few brain cells for a bit to work that out.
I have considered mounting the battery under the seat or in the turret behind the gunner. I'd use a deep cycle marine battery since I could have it run nearly all day and just charge it up. From what I know a marine battery and car battery operate differently and trying to charge a marine battery and car battery on the same stock alternator can burn up my alternator. I wouldn't want that. Though mounting the motor to where it can actually turn the turret would prove to be an issue. I can figure that out in time. I might have to mount it outside of the turret (but inside the tank).

Quote:
You may want to consider, given the concept for traversing the turret you started with, to have the turret alignment be your course aiming and allow the Nerf cannon in it to have 10 to 20 degrees of traverse within the turret, and the gunner operate this literally by hand. The first PB tanks I crewed were like this, and they provide a faster target acquisition than tracking the entire turret on the target. The advantage to a fixed traverse (within the turret) is that the Nerf cannot aim is much more stable, though slower. So, when firing off the Coax, you can easily walk the anti-personnel rounds right onto the target. Useful for trying to shoot between the slats of a fence, or between the trees.
Well I have considered to mount both the main gun and auxiliary twin A5's in the same fashion, both about 6-8" from the center of the turret. Main gun on Left, aux. on right. I've considered using a warp feed to allow me to have about a case of loose ammunition in a trough/big hopper and have it fed remotely and automatically to the guns, but it might be easier to have someone hand up some extra pods if they are needed. Not sure about it. Might have to work with pods until I run the tank through a few games and figure out what works best. Might be a good idea for phase 2.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackAngelSS View Post
a sprinkler valve air cannon will do you just fine.just make sure it is built safe and your local field allows it.some require "manufactured" launchers
I plan on possibly building two and remotely pushing one to the point where it fails catastrophically. It really depends on the cost and my deadline, which should be January 2013. My local field knows me well but I know they would want to see proof that it's safe.

If I have to buy one, I'd understand. It's also factored into the equation as a last resort.
__________________
RojPup is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2012, 06:28 PM #5
Boom Master
Scenario Player
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: St. Louis MO, USA, EARTH
All sprinkler valves are not created equal. Rain birds I have good luck with. Toros fall a little short of Rainbirds in opening speed using the stock solenoid... Three 9 volts in series will run an autoloading cannon all weekend. Put fresh ones in before each game and run the used ones in my hoppers. Still plenty of juice left over. You energize the solenoid less than a second per shot and you are having a FUN weekend if you fire 120 Nerfs... 2 minutes of juice.

Plumbing a sprinkler valve is easy. There is an arrow on the body to indicate the water/AIR input and the Water/AIR output. A simple plumbing project. I prefer the threaded valves so you can recycle them to later projects. No modifications are needed though guys can't resist tweaking it. All it has to do is get a Nerf up to the speed limit...

http://www.orbitonline.com/products/Valves/02/16/04/

Notice many have little flip levers for manual opening. They will also fire the cannon without a battery. Used that flip lever in my bazooka for years. Didn't want to be breaking wires and banging it around. Don't buy flow control. You will be running it wide open and adjusting the operating pressure to control the velocity.

They have some monster valves that I have no personal experience with. But my favorite is the 1" Threaded for less than $25.

Another point is sprinkler valves don't come with a pressure rating for swater on the box. Most are 125 psi and a very FEW 150 psi. You have to call the company but don't mention what we are doing with it or they will clam up. Your trailer park is on a well and it spikes pressure. Otherwise plan on 125 psi... Now they do make BRASS bodied valves that have higher pressure ratings for the BODY but the operating pressure for the solenoids is still 125-150 psi.

Now that I said that, SOME Rainbirds lend themselves to adapting a shop air trigger so your system is all pneumatic and mechanical in firing. Very reliable and maintenance free. Let me know if you want to go that way. I have posted it somewhere with pics. And they can be 'souped up slightly without compromising the structural integrity of the valve. Meaning you can get the valve to open faster than with the solenoid.

Turret Design. I wind up being a minority opinion much of the time but tis based on my experience of 20 years seeing OTHER peoples mistakes. I haven't made one yet that rotates. Have a walking tank the turns on a dime.

First they need to be LIGHT. Minimal framing and the rest netting. Visibility is necessary to survive from the anti tankers of which I have considerable practice. If you build a blind spot, the anti tankers will be in it when they pop up and nail you. We recon every tank before the game for blinds spots. WE LOVE portholes and 'armor plate' they can't see through.

Back to LIGHT. Motorized or not, you want the center of gravity of all the hardware in your turret to be AT the pivot point of the turret. Air tanks make wonderful counterweights you can move around to adjust that center of gravity if you PLAN for it. Turrets tend to be front heavy with the cannon, marker, hopper, etc in front of the gunner. If it isn't, the heavy side of the turret will want to swing down to the low side when you are on an incline which is ALL the Time. You will wear your gunner out muscling it. OR have increased demands on your motorized hardware.

Saw ONE motorized turret using a starter and flywheel. Chrysler by the sound of it. It burnt out within a couple of hours and was stationary for the rest of the game. Never saw it again.... or one since. Starters are not made for continuous duty and that is what we will be doing for all practical purposes. You power consumption to swing a turret WILL be considerable and a 12 volt system has it limitations in tranferring current with only 12 volts pushing it. You will have more choices in motors with a 110 motor but it would take on heck of an inverter to meet the power requirements PLUS the heavy duty alternator(s) to produce the current.

I have played against motorized turrets vs my walking tank. Everyone was TOO SLOW. I could get two shots out of a manually loaded RPG if I took my first shot with the turret 180 degrees away from me. Not the case with light, manually turned turrets. One shot and duck....

If you can't turn it 180 degrees in less than two seconds, you are vunerable to anti tank and will require marker ports on all four sides manned in addition to the main gun.

For your first tank, I would recommend a manually turned turret but plan ahead in your design so you could "Upgrade" it later and should it fail, go back to manual turning rather than be out of the game or with a stationary turret.

We will help you build the first one right so your field's comfort level is met.

The big worry is the air chamber. Make it out of a fire extinguisher body that is rated 200 psi or higher. Galvanized pipe is rated 300 psi. The weak link is the plastic sprinkler valve at 125 psi. Add the pressure relief valve, pressure guage and you should be good to go. In a tank, should something go terribly wrong the schrapnel will most likely not exit the tank and injure other players. So fields worry less with tanks than hand helds. You can still build a plywood shield around the air chamber in the tank so the people inside are protected as well. I would hose clamp that air chamber down anyway so it won't become a rocket if you blow that valve.

Breechloader. You probably saw my post. http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3364283

I'm getting too much air leakage. Plan to go with a sewer gate valve. Already bought it but haven't rebuilt it yet. Plan on trying THICKER plywood like 1/2" -5/8" that won't flex and bow like that 1/4" does. Save me from a total rebuild from scratch.
__________________
Carefully planned irresponsibility is the KEY to mental health.

If you haven't grown up by age 50........

You don't have to......

Last edited by Boom Master : 03-08-2012 at 06:39 PM.
Boom Master is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2012, 02:07 PM #6
BLC_BOOM
 
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
I have done a very similar turret system on a sand rail. My advise is to not do an electrical turret. They are very intricate and complicated, and the paintball field is abbusive. If you decide to do an electrical turret, make it so that it can be quickly field modified to be moved manually. This is my setup:

The turret cage and seat are mounted on a pallet carousel. The turret is moved with 2 opposing wheelchair motors, mounted horizontally, rubbing against the outer ring of the carousel. The motors are controlled by the wheelchair joystick and controller and powered by 2 12 volt wheelchair batteries. A teeter-totter style switch at the footrest actuates the variable speed joystick. The electrical and air lines pass through a slip ring and rotary union, centered under the chair. We have an overhead hopper with a warpfeed capable of holding nearly 3 cases of paint. We have backup pods of paint within the turret. I am looking at removing the warpfeed. They are fragile and were not intended to push as much paint as far as we do.

This turret can turn faster than you want it to. It can rotate at 19 revs per minute. I have it turned down to keep the gunner from getting sick.

I recommend building with redundancy and bringing lots of spare parts.
__________________
Matt Bolinger
BlackLight Company Paintball Team

Quick Strike PAV
BLC_BOOM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2012, 07:12 PM #7
Boom Master
Scenario Player
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: St. Louis MO, USA, EARTH
An Idea that I have not built. Instead of a foot actuator that rotates the turret and in BLC Boom's set up. I pondered a Y or U yoke that the cannon barrel / machine gun barrel or both or either actuates switches or the joystick ( usually variable speed in wheelchair joysticks - The farther you move it from center, the faster the motors run) when it is pointed to the left or right side. All you would have to do is what you would naturally and instinctively do should you see a threat. You would point your cannon/marker at it. If it is outside the cone of fire of the gimbal mount that does not move the turret it would activate the turret motors. When your target comes within your sight picture and you move the barrel to aim then the turret would not longer be activated and stop. It would coast a bit while you are aiming but a little tweaking on how much is coasts and the cone of fire of the cannon when not turning the turret and it would be a sweet setup potentially. It would seem almost natural and automatic. Just adjust the width of the clearance between the barrel and sides of the U .

Point and shoot. The turret follows your lead and stops automatically when you start aiming precisely on target. No foot, hand, eye coordination. Just eye hand.

Let me re emphasize you need a manual option that is playable. the more complicated it is electronically and mechanically, the more problems you will have in a very challenging environment for mechanical things.
For a belt drive, have an idler pulley that holds tension and friction. If something breaks, Release the Idler pully so the belt just slips while you turn it manually.

His use of wheelchair controllers and motors has many features you would like. Being a therapist who writes the specifications for wheelchair prescriptions, I know a LOT about power chairs. Not only are the joysticks variable speed controls but the controller box is PROGRAMMABLE.

You can program the maximun speed from a snails crawl which we use when teaching patient with severe control problems to use the power chair UP to 12-15 mph for the paraplegic on a college campus that has to travel a half mile in 10 minutes to get to their next class on campus.

The TORQUE is programmable should the driver accicently drive into the WALL at the nursing home, or a patient sitting in a chair in the dining room at the nursing home, that the wheelchair would STALL instead of tearing up the wall paper or shoving the little old laday over in her chair. The torque can be increased to negotiate non standard wheelchair ramps that are too steep. Or for an obese 350 pounder to just go up a standard ramp. Or for the rural person with a soft grass yard and gravel driveway to plow through. They even come with a dead man switch should they dump the chair off a curb or for training purposes so the therapist/ trainer can stop the wheelchair before they go down a flight of stairs by accident or are about to run into a little old lady in a walker, tottering down the hall at the nursing home.

In addition, BRAKING is programmable. How long it coasts when you let go of the joystick. It can coast a lot and to brake actually is done by activating REVERSE to brake and stop, to a very stout automatic stop using braking current of the motors to stop it. Almost enough to dump the patient out of the wheelchair if they do not have a seatbelt on or tip forward going down a ramp and stopping suddenly. and we have double leg amputees that are very top heavy(especially the obese ones) that could easily dump a chair forward seat belt on with the person in it. if it stops too quickly. Those "wheeleie bar wheels+ on the front of some power chairs are there for a reason. One program does not fit all patients needs. They are very individualized, custom programmed wheelchairs. BLC Boom seems quite pleased with his set up and for good reason.
He mentions it goes TOO Fast. There is not such thing as a turret that moves too fast when I pop up with my RPG. It may be over controlling, coasting too far to stop where you want and thus over controlling back and forth. Tweaking the programming may solve those problems. Otherwise dramamine might help.

The controllers are extremely versatile for all the different needs of a patients in a wide variety of physical environments. You can probably imagine by now how those features could be used in a turret set up to the speed, controllability, and playability of an electric powered turret. It could be a VERY sweet setup.

Plan it as an upgrade and start with a manual turret. We don't want to discourage tinkering at all....
__________________
Carefully planned irresponsibility is the KEY to mental health.

If you haven't grown up by age 50........

You don't have to......

Last edited by Boom Master : 03-12-2012 at 07:52 PM.
Boom Master is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2012, 09:11 AM #8
BLC_BOOM
 
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
There is a tank that uses a switch system similar to Boom Master's description. I thought it was the Hellions' Grindhouse made by Buckshot, but I am unable to find the write-up.
__________________
Matt Bolinger
BlackLight Company Paintball Team

Quick Strike PAV
BLC_BOOM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2012, 03:51 PM #9
Cromagnum Tankerman
Cromagnum Tank Commander
 
Cromagnum Tankerman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Martinsburg WV
Rojpop,

My suggestion to you is to find a vehicle that at least is a 4 x 4. Especially if you plan to take this tank into the bush or over some slightly rugged terrain or muddy areas. If you play on flat land or small rolling hills then a regular wheel base may do the job. But the most important thing of all is to make sure your tank is mechanically sound. Especially if you plan to play alot. Its so important to know that your tanking vehicle will start and run all day with no or minor troubles. Theres nothing more frustrating then having a great tank to look and everyone marvels at when it wont start on a trailer or in the parking lot. Or later breaks down on a field in a remote location. If you check most tankers have had this problem including me. My second and current tank blew a head gasket from a blocked filter on its maiden voyage. Of course I was told by my mechanic it runs fine before I took it. He didnt check everything as he was instructed to. So listen to the many posts that have answered and talk to as many tankers as you can to find out what works and what doesnt. Because if you dont you will learn the hard way by spending more money on this project then its worth. Tanking is fun. But we have to pay to play in many ways.

Treaddz
Cromagnum Tankerman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2012, 10:08 PM #10
TJ Allcot
 
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: NY/LI
First off, it'll probably cost more than you think, ask anyone with a tank, lol.

Valve: I love the Spudtech Supah+ air actuated. It's pricey but lets you get away with a much smaller pressure chamber and less pressure:
http://www.spudtech.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_ id=12&zenid=0cf6aa5441f1aa7467ddfb85f2c2661f

For loading I use a Zoeller 2" flap valve and a roughly 18" piece of 1" PVC to push the rocket through:
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&gs_nf=1&cp=14&gs_id=2a&xhr=t&q=zoell er+flap+valve&safe=off&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf. ,cf.osb&biw=1241&bih=838&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=7465432583203594099&sa=X&ei=9ANgT5F 8iLO0Bta_pbsJ&sqi=2&ved=0CFoQ8wIwAw

Basic cannon setup looks like this:
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=2269225131629&set=a.2251376285419.2 133589.1278602959&type=3&theater

As for SCUBA tanks, get more if you can. I'm currently up to five and hoping to get at least 2 more. I'm often looking for them on Craigs List. Picked up my last two via CL at a garage sale for $50 each. Although they need hydros and VIP's.

Sounds like you're going to be transporting it via trailer. If you want to spend the time/effort/money you can actually build a very realistic tank if you're willing to build it out to roughly 7' wide. I believe the Blackhearts were out of GA with their Tiger but I'm not sure if they're still there. They went even further than going wide and rigged up a steering setup that went back to the rear bumper of what I believe was originally a full size van. They would basically drive around in reverse but they had the engine in the back. A WWII German Tiger is possibly one of the easiest large tanks to make a realistic enough looking machine out of a full size truck, mostly because it's very box like. Personally if I were to build another full size vehicle based tank I'd either build a Russian T-34 or a U.S. M18 Hellcat. There is/has been a lot of pickup trucks with a box on the back and turret on the box paintball tanks over the years, not as many that went through the added headaches of building a more realistic looking machine. Granted I'm a bit biased and you can't trust me since I just might be trying to spread the misery, lol. If you do go that route though setup a spot for the chainsaw/sawzall because wider tanks make for more headaches on the field that the smaller ones just don't have.

This gives a rough of what my current setup is using a 1990 Chevy S-10 Blazer:
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=2838214516008&set=a.2251376285419.2 133589.1278602959&type=3&theater

I can put myself in the drivers seat a gunner right behind me and two to my right on the passenger side. Two more in the turret, which can be tight since I'm using a 40" pallet carousel. Up to three across where the rear bumper was if they're small enough, two if they're larger. Finally there's a rear hatch where the engine cover would be on the the real Panther. So one more gunner can stand being exposed if the rules allow. Comes out to 9 active gunners if they're not too large. I currently keep one SCUBA in the turret but will eventually put two up there, One between the front seats and one is either left back at camp or is tied up in the rear passenger side foot well, sharing the space with that rear gunner. I'm hoping to weld up some racks over each of the rear tires this Spring and if they fit put two tanks over each rear tire, if not it'll just be a single tank. Eventually I'm also hoping to put two up front, roughly where the door hinges used to be. That could give me either seven or nine SCUBA locations and you could do the same if you wanted to have that much air readily available. Your starting out with a much larger machine than many, you may as well take as much advantage of the potential space and greater carrying capacity as you can.
__________________
Dawn's Panther, Special Ops Trading Card Tank #0002
Sponsored by:

Cousins, Tippmann,
Allied with, Blues Crew
Friends w/,Engler Custom Guns,Draxxus,Planet Eclipse,Bea Youngs,Bear Claw PB,OA PB
And lots of others.
TJ Allcot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2012, 06:42 AM #11
CNCRouterman
 
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Back in the day...


Sadly, the tiger isn't playable anymore, but does stand as a prop at BearClaw.

From what the Blackheart's have told me, it was just TOO big to be practical. Sure you could put 7 to 10 people in it, but hauling it anywhere became prohibitively expensive.

The Tiger is built on a Chevy Suburban (IIRC) chassis, and as mentioned is driven backwards like a forklift, with the steers at the rear of the tank. This thing is a monster, you can hide a whole platoon of players behind it now.

I definetly agree with the advice on trailer restrictions. If you build it wider than 8' you may need a permit just to trailer it anywhere. Also, the bigger and heavier it is, the bigger and heavier the trailer will need to be, so the bigger your trailering expenses will become. One of the Blackhearts mentioned a fuel bill exceeding $1500 to haul the Tiger to a big game (Oklahoma, I think, but not sure). It was based in Atlanta GA then. Now it's in Fayetteville Tennessee at BearClaw.
__________________
Tower: "TWA 2341, for noise abatement turn right 45 Degrees."

TWA 2341: "Center, we are at 35,000 feet. How much noise can we make up here?"

Tower: "Sir, have you ever heard the noise a 747 makes when it hits a 727?"
CNCRouterman is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
Forum Jump