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Old 02-25-2012, 08:02 PM #1
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Ok I've noticed a lot of people go to method in the sticky which is the opposite of this method. Now yes it will improve your marker but a lot more in the efficiency department. This will create the smoothest possible shot AND increase efficiency to around 12-13 pods on a 68/45. I've tuned my friends markers with this methods which they were hesitant to let me do at first however after I did it he was definitely surprised to find it shot better than his old Luxe (4 of us on our team HAD Luxes and now have Axes because they shoot money one is being stubborn because his Luxe has sentimental value... lol) Anyways enough chatter onto the method.

1. Turn your pressure to 180 and turn your back cap ALL the way in. Start at 150-160 with an aftermarket bolt raise/lower slightly if needed. On well know bolt systems such as the Boss or Lurker bolt kits, use the recommended pressure as a starting point and continue with tuning.

2. Go to a chrono.

3. Slowly ease your backcap out in small increments of 1/4 turns while chroning 5-10 shots in between each adjustment

4. Repeat step 3 until your FPS stops going up, every marker is different so never use a set amount of turns because getting YOUR marker set correctly is the most important part of tuning.

5. Adjust pressure to proper chrono speeds.

6. (Optional) Slowly turn your dwell down while firing over a chrono until you see your FPS start to fluctuate in either consistency or just velocity. Once you notice this begin to happen bump your well back up 1MS


Step 6 is purely for efficiency and is probably the most time consuming part of the process but is optional because you've already gained all your shot quality gains and some of your efficiency.
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Old 02-25-2012, 08:10 PM #2
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I commented on this method in the other thread, however I'm also curious if this will be as gentle on paint as MaxOC's method for setting your gun to be gentle on paint. efficiency isn't a huge deal to me, the fields I play have all day air, I'm more concerned about how well my gun can handle brittle paint.
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Old 02-25-2012, 08:31 PM #3
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Since the pressure and dwell are dropped it handles paint the best. Like I said this makes the lowest possible operating pressure resulting in the lowest amount of force on the ball.
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Old 02-25-2012, 10:12 PM #4
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step 5 how low do you lower the pressure?
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Old 02-25-2012, 11:21 PM #5
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Just a few psi ( maybe a 1/8 turn in and rechrono 5-10 shots until you're sitting consistently under 300 FPS.)
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Old 03-08-2012, 05:45 PM #6
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I don't quite understand, because if you decrease the dwell you will make the shot faster and rougher the solenoid controls the bolt, and as you lower the time you let your solenoid stay open you also lower the time on the shot, which won't make your gun easier on brittle paint, but more efficent on air
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Old 03-09-2012, 12:54 AM #7
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I will try this method maybe next week, but my gun has been real smooth with boss bolt
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Old 03-09-2012, 09:45 AM #8
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Tobie that's not at all how it works. Just bey decreasing dwell it doen't automatically change everything else. IF anything your gun will be EASIER on paint because their is less air pushing the bolt. If you don't believe me do this method IN THIS ORDER and see the results...
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Old 03-09-2012, 11:10 AM #9
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I always thought backing out the back cap, and lowering the pressure will decrease efficency, but give a softer shot. Everything I have reaad or seen seems to be do you want maximum efficency, or the smoothest shot quality? You sacrifice a little of one for the other. Lowering dwell I thought caused the solenoid to cycle more quickly, letting air through then shutting it off mote abruptly. I would think slower would equal smoother, as the shot wouldn't be quite as crisp and sudden.
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Old 03-09-2012, 11:11 AM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98Pro View Post
Tobie that's not at all how it works. Just bey decreasing dwell it doen't automatically change everything else. IF anything your gun will be EASIER on paint because their is less air pushing the bolt. If you don't believe me do this method IN THIS ORDER and see the results...
I think he means that having a lower pressure and more dwell is MORE easy on paint than higher pressure and short dwell. But I'm sure your method still is supereasy on paint too.

EDIT: Was too slow
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Old 03-09-2012, 11:23 AM #11
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Yeah basically. This is the best all around method and with an aftermarket bolt it should handle any paint as will the stock bolt. That's why pro's can shoot Ultra Evil that is made to be as brittle as conditions will allow with the stock parts and minor tuning.

While this won't be the MOST efficient it will be the only one that doesn't hurt but help all aspects of the gun. It maximizes the guns all around performance for your climate and how broken in your gun is. This is because stock the gun is made so that it works in ANY conditions but these settings will be higher than you need.
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Old 03-14-2012, 02:20 PM #12
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Gonna give this a try next time i get access to a chrono
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Old 03-14-2012, 04:50 PM #13
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This is essentially what we recommend for the Eigenbolt:

http://www.lurkerpb.com/manuals/minimanual.pdf

The KEY is that this method sweetspots the back cap position. Essentially this is "timing" the poppet, not just adjusting how far it can open, because the air behind the poppet is what actuates the bolt. It's my believe that runnign slightly more restricted on the poppet at a higher pressure shades you to a more efficient gun, and a bit more with the pressure lowered results in the smoothest gun, though with good frictions in the bolt assembly VERY low dwells can be used and preserve efficiency even at 140psi.


Great tuning guide, and simple to follow. Wholehearted recommend.
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Old 03-14-2012, 04:50 PM #14
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will be testing this method on sunday...
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Old 03-14-2012, 10:29 PM #15
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Wow, thanks for the support lurker. I just like to know that people are setting their guns up right. It's just what makes tuning things so cool to me is that it's maximizing and making the best of what you have.

It was your tuning guide that actually made me think I this one because I found the presets in it to be too high for some guns. So by fully conforming ones settings to a particular gun it is optimal.
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Old 03-15-2012, 09:13 AM #16
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I'm on my second Axe. I'll definitely try this once it's broken in.
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Old 03-15-2012, 08:26 PM #17
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I think I've finally read enough in this thread that once I get to my local field this weekend, i will be tuning my Mini like this for our tournament next weekend. I like what I'm seeing, and want my Mini to shoot buttery smooth. Has this been stickied yet? If not, it should go right by MaxOC's guide
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Old 03-15-2012, 09:26 PM #18
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Old 03-16-2012, 08:03 AM #19
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I don't think so. Atleast I can be a helpful "pbnation kid" haha.

Thanks pookie. Have you been stuck at a computer lately? Seems like you been pretty active on here past few days.
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Old 03-16-2012, 09:35 AM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98Pro View Post
Yeah basically. This is the best all around method and with an aftermarket bolt it should handle any paint as will the stock bolt. That's why pro's can shoot Ultra Evil that is made to be as brittle as conditions will allow with the stock parts and minor tuning.
This is not exactly correct. This is not how the Pro's tune their Axes. But I do like your tuning method. The Pro's for the most part use a tune pretty close to what you see on completely stock Axes. But I can see it changing soon
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Old 03-16-2012, 10:37 AM #21
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I wasn't sayin pros do this I was saying the axe with little to no tuning handles ultra evil fine. That's why pros have no problem with paint in their axes
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