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Old 08-12-2011, 08:20 PM #1
Goofball1205
 
 
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O-rings Urethane vs. HNBR

I'm looking at putting together a good o-ring kit from OringsUSA. I'm getting Viton o-rings for all the static o-rings. However what is better for the dynamic o-rings. The shocker normally uses urethane o-rings for the bolt guide and HNBR for the can o-rings. From looking at the o-rings currently in my shocker the urethane o-rings feel slicker but the HNBR feel more robust and less likely to stretch out over time or roll. I also no the HNBR generally run a little larger then the same o-ring made of Buna N. Any Idea on how the Urethane o-rings run.
As always thanks for the help,
Matt.
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Old 08-12-2011, 09:54 PM #2
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I love HNBR orings, but everywhere I order them, including OringaUSA. They do not run larger. If anything they are more consistent in size which is both good and bad. I like a little fluctuation in size, as I can go up or down depending on fit. Say, inside the can or the bolt sail.
They are better than Buna for durability, but buna gives you a larger range. (why?: I dunno - as I would think it would be the same cast or mold)
Urethanes are ok, but as you said they degrade faster than buna, and HNBR. (from my experiences) either getting old and yellowing, or becoming stretched out and loose like you said.

So no worries get some HNBR's and rock them out!


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Old 08-12-2011, 10:25 PM #3
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^x2

My guess on the size difference with the buna would be that the material isn't as consistent as the HNBR so it's not possible to get the tight tolerances that HNBR does.
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Old 08-12-2011, 11:44 PM #4
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That is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for your response. Now I can get this order in and continue tinkering.
Thanks again,
Matt
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Old 08-13-2011, 02:32 PM #5
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Yep = Get - R- Done!

They are great o-rings!


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Old 08-14-2011, 11:46 AM #6
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where would you get the big orings from?
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Old 02-23-2012, 08:04 AM #7
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Sorry to dig up a thread that's a little old...but quick question. I'm trying to buy some o-rings and noticed that you can't get hnbr's at oringusa in a 90 duro, just 70. Does anyone know if they make them in 90 for the orings that are a 90?
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Old 02-23-2012, 08:09 AM #8
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There is no need to get a 90 durometer HNBR oring. All 90 durometer orings in the shocker are bumpers.
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Old 02-23-2012, 08:16 AM #9
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Is the front bolt oring on an he bolt considered a bumper? Thought it and the SFT oring sealed?

I used Buna for all of my 90 durometer oring.
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Old 02-23-2012, 11:40 AM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishballer06 View Post
There is no need to get a 90 durometer HNBR oring. All 90 durometer orings in the shocker are bumpers.
technically the sft ring should be 90 durometer to prevent extrusion but its rougher on paint than a 70. I've only had a 70 extrude twice in nearly six years of using shockers, both around the same time.
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Old 02-23-2012, 11:54 AM #11
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Interesting side note, they switched to a 70 for the SFT oring on the Luxe.
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Old 02-23-2012, 12:01 PM #12
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^They may have adjusted the groove. I've had quite a few 70s come out when I use them as the SFT ring.
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Old 02-23-2012, 01:05 PM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccluff2 View Post
its rougher on paint than a 70
I don't believe you.
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Old 02-23-2012, 03:53 PM #14
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not sure if your serious(if not please ignore),

direct from zdspb....
The SFT o-ring can infrequently be the cause of paint breakage problems in the barrel. This can either be due to low-quality paint, dirty SFT o-ring (or the o-ring clogged with paint from previous chops), cold weather problems, or due to severely enlarged paintshells. These are explained in further depth in the Troubleshooting section (see the Related Links).

When replacing the SFT o-ring, I suggest you always use a clean, new 17/90 o-ring. This is more "stiff" than the o-rings that are used throughout the bolt assembly (which are 70 durometer instead of 90, see the page for o-ring information for details on this). Some users have found that a softer 17/70 o-ring can help with barrel breaks, however I don't personally recommend doing this. If a 17/70 is used, it is likely that it will pop out of position, which then jams the bolt and forces you to disassemble the marker to remedy the problem. This is why a 17/90 is used in the first place, and I recommend following it.
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Last edited by ccluff2 : 02-23-2012 at 04:09 PM.
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Old 02-23-2012, 06:37 PM #15
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I read SFT but was thinking HE. Sorry about that.
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Old 03-11-2013, 05:56 PM #16
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I'm a little late to the thread but I get my rings from a big warehouse that's one town over. I don't wanna violate any rules so just google o-rings Lovettsville VA
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