[D7.Dro33]

I can get a 1" diameter, 12" long rod of delrin for 8 bucks, and my friend works a CnC machine for his job, and can carve it up for me for free.

So looking to get a custom made pin and bolt done up,

need a good design for a venturi face, or a better working concept,
and an estimate on how thin I can take the back half of the bolt down before risking structural integrity.

All suggestions are welcome.

[D7.Dro33]

No one?

Can someone at least get me some pics of a venturi style face?
Once I have a successful design and prototype, me and my friend can make some for sale (cheap,) pistons and internals too as long as we can get the dimensions needed.

[Yoheezie]

Originally Posted by D7.Dro33

No one?

Can someone at least get me some pics of a venturi style face?
Once I have a successful design and prototype, me and my friend can make some for sale (cheap,) pistons and internals too as long as we can get the dimensions needed.

I'll try to get you a few pics of my Freeflow venturi bolt.. pm me your email and I'll take pics when I can and send them over...

[cww516]

You looking for design recommendations so you can design your own, or a ready-made design?

As far as the face, open is probably going to work better than venturi. Long story short, the fewer jarring transitions between the .25" hole in the body to the front of the bolt, the better. Look at how AKA does their bolts for a start (angled inlet hole, tapers out from back to front). The jarring transition thing helps a lot, too. I went from .5" inlet and outlet to .25" angled inlet / .3125" outlet, picked up about 10 FPS (no o-rings on either one).

[D7.Dro33]

Originally Posted by cww516

You looking for design recommendations so you can design your own, or a ready-made design?

As far as the face, open is probably going to work better than venturi. Long story short, the fewer jarring transitions between the .25" hole in the body to the front of the bolt, the better. Look at how AKA does their bolts for a start (angled inlet hole, tapers out from back to front). The jarring transition thing helps a lot, too. I went from .5" inlet and outlet to .25" angled inlet / .3125" outlet, picked up about 10 FPS (no o-rings on either one).

Any pictures for reference? I get the gist of how the AKA is made, but after reading I would like to see the differences compared to others, most of the pictures online do not show the face or up close for enough detail.

So I would def. be better off leaving the bolt face open?

As to design specs, I just want the easiest/most efficient way possible. I am not too sure how intricate I can get with the design, I am pretty sure the CNC machines my friend uses are manual, but he has done viking bolt pins before that came out like the Nexus pins so contour lines and the such shouldn't be a problem. Or if I chose to do the venturi style facing (the holes and shaping that is.)

Originally Posted by Yoheezie

I'll try to get you a few pics of my Freeflow venturi bolt.. pm me your email and I'll take pics when I can and send them over...

if you can upload them an pm them to me that would be sweet, but I'll Pm you either way.

Thanks guys.

[cww516]

Well, if they're CNC, they're not manual, unless you have to punch the g-code in by hand (CNC stands for computer numerical control). I don't really have any pictures (mine or the AKA), but I drilled the center hole, then used the biggest bit I had on hand (probably .75" or so) and angled the front of the bolt, finished it with sandpaper. Makes it cup the balls better, if you will

As far as open vs. venturi, that's just what I've heard. I haven't done a direct comparison of the two options in the same gun. Eliminating as many jarring transitions in cross-section as you can is definitely a plus, though.

[Trigg3r Happy]

Well I will be honest at the moment I have:
OTP antichop bolt in my 95
Sanchez bolt in my reflex (Dyes were garbage)
Kapp (similiar to ans) venturi in my Kapp
and everything else is belsales or wgp, that I can remember.

My favorites would be antichop and belsales.
For a mech or a blind e frame and antichop bolt is awesome, but if I were going to mimic a bolt design at the moment I like belsales and ccm.

Ccm for open faced bolts.
Belsales for venturi.

The difference in belsales bolts and most venturis is simple:
Most are a lot of straight holes drilled over the inlet hole (aside from ans and kapp who do not have an inlet hole but a 2 oring open system).

However belsales precision drills 6 holes to the inlet opening (meaning there not straight but curve)

and after all it isn't hard to see the respect for the belseys and innnovation in all there products.

Which in my use has been my favorite.

[Dark Side]

Can you do a cure style bolt for a viking?

[D7.Dro33]

Originally Posted by Dark Side

Can you do a cure style bolt for a viking?

I have been talking to my friend about this.
Since he does it while he is at work, by his estimates on time - about an hour per bolt, he said it would be a bit of a challenge to do it while on the clock, and he is not a manager or anything so going in after hours is a no go. If he ever says he is interested in making bolts I will certainly shoot you a PM.

Bolt pins though, he'd def do that. He did it before when he was playing PB, and can do about 10 pins a day with out disrupting his work load, or getting in-trouble with management.


Thanks for the replies guys, will come back if I come into any questions when the design phase becomes reality. (bout a week.)

[Dark Side]

Originally Posted by D7.Dro33

I have been talking to my friend about this.
Since he does it while he is at work, by his estimates on time - about an hour per bolt, he said it would be a bit of a challenge to do it while on the clock, and he is not a manager or anything so going in after hours is a no go. If he ever says he is interested in making bolts I will certainly shoot you a PM.

Bolt pins though, he'd def do that. He did it before when he was playing PB, and can do about 10 pins a day with out disrupting his work load, or getting in-trouble with management.


Thanks for the replies guys, will come back if I come into any questions when the design phase becomes reality. (bout a week.)

Looking forwards to that PM.

[barrel roll]

I can send you a prototype cocker bolt, you just need to ignore the magnetic pin part of it. It was made by Killa. It was from a modified ego bolt, but the project kind of fell apart because of my mq2. I reckon the magnetic pin would work in a normal valved autococker...