[Taxarod]

Originally Posted by shw33l

im thinking about doing it, how long did it take just for the feedneck?

What takes the most is removing the annodizing, which is something you can let it sit and go do something else, with heavy annodizing layers it may take up to 30 minutes for the whole annodizing to loosen.

From the point I started sanding to when I finished it, took me around 20 minutes since it had a couple scratches that had to be removed.

[Taxarod]

Originally Posted by Dan95-5.0

i assume those parts were not dust annod?

I have no problem polishing, its the lye that scares me when i do my ego.

It was a dust anno, theres no difference as for removing dust anno than gloss anno, the different is when you have to sand it, you have to be careful and get it to a high grid.

[R-M-I]

Did a piece last night... Something I've always figured would be cool:
Dust black UL back, with the logo, Dye lettering and ridges left black, the rest polished..

I'm NOT finished yet.. Only did up to 400 grit on this before polishing using "Autosol".. Buying more sandingpaper today so I can go up to 2000 grit.. Then finishing off with the polishing compound untill it's a flawless mirror shine

Results so far:


Keep in mind, I do this all by hand

EDIT:
Got some 600 and 1200 grit paper.. Will polish up later when the kids are sleeping..
Fingers crossed for a great result..

[05daytonaram]

Originally Posted by svmeyer

Any recommendations on a certain type of lye and rouge? Is it better to get the dry lye that you have to mix or something already in a liquid form?

Any certain brands? I tried the oven cleaner but that only removed about half of the coating

just remember if youre using powdered lye to do it outside and not to breath that **** in... can make you pretty damn sick

[Pdubs]

Anyone wanna explain the buffer method in detail? And it would be theoretically possible to do this with an entire gun right? Also, what the hell is rouge?

[paintball3n]

I think im gonna try this with an old spyder when I get home XD

[R-M-I]

Final result:


Again, crappy picture... I assure you though..It's a mirror finish. Took a while to get it like this though

[peppelepugh]

thats SICK

[theblindchicken]

Originally Posted by Pdubs

Anyone wanna explain the buffer method in detail? And it would be theoretically possible to do this with an entire gun right? Also, what the hell is rouge?

The buffing method involves a buffing/polishing wheel (usually a bench model), buffing compound (usually called Tripoli), and polishing compound (Rouge).

The compounds are easily found at any jeweler's supply. Tripoli and Rouge are easily compared to sandpaper. Rouge has a much finer "grit" than Tripoli does. Rouge could be compared to 1200+ grit whereas Tripoli is finer than most sandpapers out there.

Pre-note: Don't mix compounds on the same buffing/polishing wheels.

The most basic buffing method is much simpler than hand polishing and usually much quicker too.

Always wear eye protection!!

Turn on your buffer/polisher. Apply buffing (Tripoli) compound while wheel is spinning. Hold your part firmly and make part meet wheel. They will go on a lovely date involving a bunch of heat. The part will heat up quickly depending on the material though.

Then repeat using a separate wheel with the polishing (Rouge) compound.

If you let the buffer snatch the part from your hands, it will most likely cause dents, scratches, and even bend the part.

Good luck!



Also, Do you apply a clear coat to your parts after you polish them or do you just regularly polish your parts?

[Taxarod]

Very nice people, I'm glad you all are using this method, since not all of us have a polishing wheel or a buffer.

[Taxarod]

Originally Posted by theblindchicken

Also, Do you apply a clear coat to your parts after you polish them or do you just regularly polish your parts?

Polishing is enough to protect the parts from rust and anything else. No need for clear coat.

[R-M-I]

Rust? Aluminum won't rust

[Taxarod]

Its not rust, but it starts to get jellowe and weakens, try removing annodizing chemically and drop the part inside after all the annodizing is off. You'll see what I mean.

[Pdubs]

I was always told that polishing a part makes it vulnerable to damage

[AmazingBilldo]

Originally Posted by Pdubs

I was always told that polishing a part makes it vulnerable to damage

It is certainly more malleable, so scratching can happen easier. not sure about the chemical protection, or protection from oxide formation.

[R-M-I]

raw\polished aluminium WILL oxidize.. only way to treat that is to polish it up again...

One could possibly use some sort of wax? Like they do on the chrome parts of cars?

[lifeisgood765]

Thanks a lot, helped me out!

[orionz06]

Originally Posted by ElPanda

.
bench grinder with a buffing wheel

screw all that manual polishing

This.


Hell, I wouldn't even use lye or oven cleaner, just a coarser compound and buff through the anodizing.

[AngelsNightmare]

I just got an 07 ego for pretty cheap but some non major parts are painted like the eye covers. If I do this will it take the paint off and the anno? I'm not sure of the type of paint. Maybe spray paint.

Edit: I'd like the anno off.

[InverT]

How often do you have to re-polish the parts to maintain the luster?

[Taxarod]

Originally Posted by AngelsNightmare

I just got an 07 ego for pretty cheap but some non major parts are painted like the eye covers. If I do this will it take the paint off and the anno? I'm not sure of the type of paint. Maybe spray paint.

Edit: I'd like the anno off.

Hello, Yes, lye will strip the part completely down to aluminum, even if its spray paint or any type of paint, make sure you are careful and don't leave the aluminum overnight in the lye, just enough for it to strip off, you'll see this happening after 15-20 minutes depending on what kind of lye or cleaner you use.