 |
01-27-2012, 05:42 PM
|
#1
|
|
www.ArmoryPaintball.com
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: NJ 08822
|
Autococker Pump LEAK down barrel! HELP Please!
Hello everyone, I just recently got a Pre-2k RF custom mill/anno pump cocker and it shoots fine (velocity seems about right), however I'm also getting a noticeable leak down the barrel, which changes pitch and intensity during the pump strock. Tried the o-rings on the bolt, no dice.
What do I need to do to get this thing running perfectly?
Thanks SO much in advance everyone!
|
|
|
01-27-2012, 08:00 PM
|
#2
|
|
a man
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: has gun
|
Pull the valve and look at the cup seal and the o-ring on the valve body, one of those is probably in not-so-good shape. The pitch is probably changing because the bolt is moving, air goes from going through the hole to around the side.
|
|
|
01-27-2012, 11:17 PM
|
#3
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Los Angeles
|
I just repaired an 03 vert feed with a leak down the barrel. When I inserted the valve tool I noticed the valve was loose. I'd just bought a new ans valve to install, and it didnt occur to me that I just needed to tighten the valve.
If you're lucky, maybe the valve is just loose. Otherwise, it may be what what already stated, bad valve o-ring or cup seal. Cheap and easy fix. Good Luck
P.S. Also make sure the valve is seated properly and secured with the jam nut upon re-installation. You will need an autococker valve tool, if you don't already have one.
Last edited by paintballedbackin88 : 01-27-2012 at 11:19 PM.
|
|
|
01-28-2012, 01:15 AM
|
#4
|
|
www.ArmoryPaintball.com
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: NJ 08822
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by paintballedbackin88
I just repaired an 03 vert feed with a leak down the barrel. When I inserted the valve tool I noticed the valve was loose. I'd just bought a new ans valve to install, and it didnt occur to me that I just needed to tighten the valve.
If you're lucky, maybe the valve is just loose. Otherwise, it may be what what already stated, bad valve o-ring or cup seal. Cheap and easy fix. Good Luck
P.S. Also make sure the valve is seated properly and secured with the jam nut upon re-installation. You will need an autococker valve tool, if you don't already have one.
|
I have one
Where can I find replacement o-rings for the valve? What about the valve pin/cupseal itself that was mentioned?
Also: any advice on reinstalling the lower internals in terms of tuning it correctly?
|
|
|
01-29-2012, 10:01 PM
|
#5
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Los Angeles
|
I couldn't find a valve pin/cup seal that was sold separately, so I bought it as a new set from ansgear.com. You need to make sure the valve pin/cup seal matches the valve, as searching the web will reveal subtle variances among different manufacturers.
I don't know where you can buy just the valve o-ring, but I believe any autococker o-ring rebuild kit should have it. I suggest visiting customcockers.net as they may be able to point you in a more specific direction regarding the valve o-ring. You may be able to grab one at a hardware store once someone gives you the specific size.
As for tuning the valve, the most important things to remember upon install is the make sure the spring is centered properly and the valve hole is pointing up towards the upper tube. There should be an indentation opposite the valve hole which should be pointing down upon insertion. This is the point where the grub screw will hold the valve in place. You will need to insert the grub screw before tightening the valve or it may turn/spin on you as you tighten it.
****** has a great video that shows a more detailed disassembly. It's called the autococker show of death (45 min long)
|
|
|
01-31-2012, 01:07 PM
|
#6
|
|
www.ArmoryPaintball.com
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: NJ 08822
|
Quick compatiblity question! Could I take a working valve out of a 2k+ cocker and put it in this pre 2k marker?
What does a pre-2k valve look like? Just to make sure I have the right kind!
|
|
|
02-01-2012, 06:25 PM
|
#7
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Los Angeles
|
the 97 autococker cup seal is slightly different in terms of design from the 98-2k cupseal, but the valves are all the same. You should be able to swap them. Check Ravi's autococker articles on MCB as he identifies the slight changes in the valve cup seal from 97 to 98-2k. Simply, the 97 cup seal was prone to more leaks down the barrel, so they made improvements to the cup seal starting in 98 and up.
Hope that helps.
|
|
|
02-01-2012, 08:12 PM
|
#8
|
|
www.ArmoryPaintball.com
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: NJ 08822
|
Will keep ya posted!
|
|
|
02-09-2012, 05:16 AM
|
#9
|
|
Private Labels Only!
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: CALI
|
Dan if you need help pm me or send me the gun and I'll take care of it. Lmk
|
|
|
02-13-2012, 12:02 PM
|
#10
|
|
thecockergod
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: muskegon, michigan
|
I do my share of replacement valves and springs. Could be a worn out valve spring too. I have everything to do all lower internals. Working on my rep on nation. Send me the gun and valve, ill get it shooting right again. Or... I can coach most ppl thru a valve change (if you have a valve tool), but setting your timing is a bit of a trick
__________________
It's not my fault...seriously
|
|
|
02-14-2012, 09:50 AM
|
#11
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Orcutt, CA
|
Valve O-ring is a -013, you can get them at almost any hardware store, paintball shop, or about $2 for a 100 of them from McMaster-Carr.
|
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|