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Old 02-05-2012, 04:58 PM #1
Ross17
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Location: Universal City, Tx
Disassembly of a Sniper. Tuning incoming.

I have decided to do a full tutorial on dis-assembly of any autococker based pump.

Things you will need:

Your marker (of course)

Allen keys - size 1/4, 7/32, 3/16, 5/32, 9/64, 1/8, 7/64, 1/16, and .50 (I prefer loose Allen keys as they are easier to maneuver around the marker.

Autococker valve tool (These are getting harder to come by, and are really not necessary unless you are doing a complete break down.)



Obviously if your marker does not have autotrigger, the first step will not apply to you.


Step 1:

Remove your autotrigger linkage screw using a 5/64 allen key. (Please be careful, these screws are very weak to binding and are not easily available at a local hardware store)



Step 2:

Remove your beavertail by screwing it counter clockwise with your hand. (Applies only to fullblock cockers)



Step 3:

Remove your bolt. (this should be self explanatory.)



Step 4:

Remove your cocking rod by unscrewing it counter clockwise with your hand. (The piece of metal sticking out below your bolt)



Step 5:

Remove your backblock by unscrewing it counter clockwise from the pump linkage arm.



Step 6:

Slide the pump handle off the front block.




Step 7:

Remove your macro line from your ASA and Reg by pushing the line in, holding the front of the cuplet on your fittings in, and pulling the line out.




Step 8:

Remove your regulator by unscrewing it counter clockwise with your hand.


Step 9:

Remove your ASA (air source adapter) by unscrewing the set screws that hold it to the rail. (This step is not necessary by any means unless you are changing ASA's between markers) then remove the rail from the bottom of the frame.



Step 10:

Remove the frame from the body of the marker. This is accomplished by removing two screws, one in the trigger guard, and one behind the handle itself using a 1/8 allen key.




(Please be careful if you have a CCM frame, as there is a small pin inside the frame that holds the trigger in place, and the autotrigger cam.



Step 11:

Remove the IVG (internal velocity governer) from the lower tube of the body using a 1/8 allen key on the small holes (if you have a CCM IVG) or a 3/16 on the only hole available on a standard IVG.



Step 12:

Remove your main spring that is held in place by the IVG you just removed.



Step 13: Remove your hammer by placing your 1/8 allen key in the small hole on the top of the body, then loosening the lug that is at the bottom of your hammer until it is recessed above the bottom of the body so the hammer can slide out of the lower tube.





Step 14:

Remove the valve retaining screw at the bottom of the body using a 5/32 allen key.



Step 15:

Remove the valve retaining nut by placing the autococker valve tool all the way into the lower tube and unscrew the nut. The valve will simply slide out followed by the valve spring right after this.



You should have your lower internals laid out like this:




Step 16: You can now remove the front block assembly using either 3/16 allen key or your hand should be fine.



You should now be able to see clear through your autococker body, upper and lower tubes.


Congratulations, you can now clean your autococker body and all internals and re-assemble your marker.



Notes:

When you are placing your lower internals back in. Please be sure to place your valve in with the open hole facing up, and the slight "dent" down for the set screw to hold it in place shown ahead.




I will be writing up a tuning addition for the next post here very soon.
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Old 02-05-2012, 04:59 PM #2
Ross17
Oderint Dum Metuant
 
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Universal City, Tx
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Pumpker'd; (V.) When a pump player runs up and shoots you at point blank range because you thought 20bps made you good.

4 full CCM'd pumps
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Old 02-06-2012, 07:11 AM #3
ridebmx211
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ill just leave this here so its all in one place

castro's breakdown thread
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3737281
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