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Old 12-12-2011, 08:03 PM #1
wesr
 
 
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Nt Troubles? Look Here

First Things First access to the Nt Manuals
www.dyematrix.com

Leaks
** Please keep in mind, because an oring is "new" does not mean it will resolve leaking issues... as orings can slightly vary.**
these leak fixes are taken directly from the NT11 manual

AIR LEAKING FROM THE BACK OF AIRPORT
• Check the O-ring on the Air system. If needed change the O-ring and try again. The O-ring normally used is 015 O-ring but some manufacturers might use a different size. Consult the manual of the air system you are using.

AIR LEAKING FROM THE FRONT OF AIRPORT
• Check that the hose connector is tight. Remove
the hose from the connector by pushing towards the connector and pull out hose. Use a crescent wrench to tighten the fitting. If needed, remove and apply thread sealant to the thread and re-tighten. If unsure, consult expert advice.
• Check that the end of the hose is cut straight and is not worn out. If needed cut a small piece off the hose with a razor blade and re-insert the hose into the fitting. Make sure the hose goes all the way to the end.

AIR LEAKING FROM ON/OFF KNOB OR BLEED HOLE
• Make sure airport is in full on or off position.
• Check 005 O-ring behind pin housing.
• See page 33 for service details.

AIR LEAKING FROM THE HYPER3TM REGULATOR
• Locate the position of the leak.
•If the leak is coming from the bottom of the
regulator you will need to dis-assemble
the regulator and change the 010 O-ring and the seat on the brass seat retainer mounted inside the Hyper3TM regulator.
•If the leak is coming from the swivel piece where the hose connector mounts you will need to change the two 013 O-rings under the swivel piece or tighten the hose connector.
•If the leak comes from the small hole in the middle of the regulator there are two possible O-rings causing the problem, the 015 O-ring on the piston and the 007 urethane O-ring inside the body of the regulator. These O-rings should be replaced by a trained Tech.
• Change the 011 O-ring on the top cap of theHyper3TM and apply a small amount of lube to the O-ring.
• See page 22 for service details.

AIR LEAKING FROM THE ASA
• Change the 011 O-ring on the top cap of the Hyper3TM and apply a small amount of lube to the O-ring.

AIR LEAKING BETWEEN BODY AND FRAME
• Inspect the two 020 O-rings on the plunger, and the 011 O-ring at the front of the spacer rod. In addition to the leak the gun may fire upon degassing.
• If the leak begins after the NT11 is fired once change
the rear most 010 O-ring on the spool. In addition, inspect the spool plungers for excessive wear.
• Check the two air transfer hole plug screws. • See page 26-27 for details.

AIR LEAKING FROM BACK OF THE NT11
If the leak is coming from around the bolt back cap:
• Check that the bolt kit is tightened all the way into the NT11. If the bolt kit is loose, it will start to leak.
• Remove the bolt kit and change the 020 O-ring on the rear cap. Lube well and re-insert the bolt kit into the NT11. Check bolt kit detail on page 19 for O-ring locations. If the leak is coming from the bleed button:
• Make sure the gun is not out of air. • Service the 005 O-rings on the bleed button.
• Check 011 O-ring on rear of spacer rod.
• See pages 13-19 for details.

AIR LEAKING FROM FRONT OF THE NT11
Determine if air is leaking from inside of bolt or around bolt. Put your finger in breech and press against bolt face to feel if air pressure builds up behind your finger.
• If leak is coming from inside of bolt check the 014 O-ring on plunger, and the front 010 Oring on the spool.
• If the leak is coming from around the bolt check the front 020 O-ring and 017 O-Ring on the cylinder.
• See page 13-19 for details.

Low Efficiency

• Inspect the rear 020 O-Ring on the cylinder.
• Inspect the bolt sail (015 O-Ring NT11) (016 O-Ring NT10).
• Inspect the 012 O-ring on the plunger.

NT Does Not Cycle

• The 012 O-ring on the plunger may be damaged.
• The spool may be installed backwards.
• Front 010 O-ring may be damaged.
• The dwell may be set too low. NT10 7-9ms, NT11 9-12ms (typically between these values)

NT11 FIRES BUT BALLS ARE DROPPING OFF OR NOT EVEN COMING OUT OF THE BARREL

• Make sure the battery is good.
• Raise the dwell to factory level.
• Make sure bolt is well lubed and moves well.
If there is too much friction in the bolt it will cause the NT11 to shoot down. Replace O-rings causing this excess friction.
• Make sure air system is screwed in all the way.

Barrel Breaks
So if your getting barrel breaks here are a few things you can look at that MAY help resolve the issue
Lots of this can be found in the manual... Which we know everyone reads.

Eye pipe and detent condition
If your eye pipe is warped in anyway
If your detents are loose balls can move around and cause stack clipping, resulting in breaks

Bolt tip oring
Poor condition can cause blow back up the stack and ball clipping

Dwell
In cooler conditions you may need to up your dwell to get a proper full bolt cylcle
(summer I run 9ms winter I run 11 ms I have 11 manifold, rod, spool, and green flow insert in an nt10)

Bolt positioning
Found this working on a friends nt11
His bolt was sitting slightly back behind the breach causing roll back and clipping
I changed out his soft tip and flow insert and the bolt came forward back to where I have seen every other nt

Hope this helps people....
I'll probably add more solutions to other problems later as I think of them

Last edited by wesr : 12-12-2011 at 09:39 PM.
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Old 12-12-2011, 08:03 PM #2
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Reserved
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Old 12-12-2011, 08:10 PM #3
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Are these settings for a nt 11 or nt 10??? The dwell that is
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Old 12-12-2011, 08:28 PM #4
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^ thanks edited
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Old 12-12-2011, 08:43 PM #5
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Old 12-12-2011, 10:43 PM #6
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Damn you wesr! I was just about to make one of these...It's cool though at least some of us take initiative!


Great Thread! For all the noobies.
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Old 12-12-2011, 11:20 PM #7
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gj man, now everyday you can just point to this when a lazy tard makes a noob thread.
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Old 12-13-2011, 12:12 AM #8
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No matter how much we point these threads out, lazy threads will be created, stupid questions will be asked, and we will guiding them to the multiple copies of threads....

When will it end?!?
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Old 12-13-2011, 12:56 AM #9
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I like that answer. My USP is coming out to play...
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Old 12-13-2011, 08:18 AM #10
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good stuff mate! ups!
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Old 12-14-2011, 11:08 AM #11
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A DYE tech recommended instead of using the O14 oring on the bolt, use an O13 to reduce ball breaks. This is a smaller o-ring than the O14. That may help some people.
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Old 12-14-2011, 01:28 PM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by #1P8ntballer View Post
A DYE tech recommended instead of using the O14 oring on the bolt, use an O13 to reduce ball breaks. This is a smaller o-ring than the O14. That may help some people.
Heard the same. Havent tried.
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Old 12-14-2011, 09:31 PM #13
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^^^ I actually use 013 O-ring on my bolt tip and never had an issue. I get the occasional barrel breaks, but no chops at all.
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Old 12-15-2011, 07:56 AM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmartWorrPartsPlayer View Post
^^^ I actually use 013 O-ring on my bolt tip and never had an issue. I get the occasional barrel breaks, but no chops at all.
All breaks are going to be barrel breaks. Guns with eyes typically do not chop.

Last edited by #1P8ntballer : 12-15-2011 at 08:06 AM.
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Old 12-15-2011, 02:03 PM #15
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The smaller bolt tip oring is something the NTOT crew has been suggesting for a year now, it pays to read.
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Old 12-18-2011, 09:02 AM #16
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gj man, now everyday you can just point to this when a lazy tard makes a noob thread.
No. You could, no one else cares
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Old 12-18-2011, 12:03 PM #17
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No. You could, no one else cares
one cant help lazy tards that exist in this world....we can only hope to educate them. Thank God most just make one or two stupid threads and we never hear from em again. Good riddance.
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