Originally Posted by Collin_CSL_Owner
Ok thanks. How many shots do you usually have to put through it before it's broken in? I've already put near 35k through it and thats well over the ten case break-in period that i have been told about. Also can you recommend some good settings for dwell and solenoid and such?
There is a very LARGE misconception in the paintball community that there is some magic number where a paintball marker is "broken in". There isn't one. There is an average of about 10,000 shots where a marker is reasonably
broken in to where someone can expect consistent results from tuning.
Your tuning that you are using now isn't going to be the same 10,000 shots from now. "Break in" simply means that the parts are wearing together. No, not wearing out, wearing in.
Like new pistons in a brand new engine. The piston rings are going to wear in. They are going to be tight and have a very close tolerance initially, that's why you're not supposed to hot rod a brand new car, you can blow the motor up that way. Once there has been a fairly reasonable amount of time and mileage on the car, hot rod all day if you want.
My comments about people trading off paintball markers before they've even been given a chance is because a paintball marker doesn't go through a lot of stress during the firing cycle. The metal doesn't heat up, there isn't a great amount of friction, there aren't a lot of moving parts, etc. so they keep their tight tolerances for a LOT longer. Firearms on the other hand go through quite a bit of pressure, heat, and have many metal on metal moving parts, so they wear in, then wear out, much quicker. I think this may be what people expect and it is not the case.
Not to throw my credentials around or try to stroke my own dick, but I've spent a lot of time working on and tuning Egos, and have found by a pretty large consensus from the people that I have tuned for is that my set-up works well. I haven't played around with the new '11 solenoids a whole lot, and haven't gotten too far in depth on the mechanics of solenoid adjustability, but from what I have read and heard is that 3/7 is where to be.
For the other settings; Put FSDO time at 0, and FSDO dwell at 0. Basically, this is to counteract bolt stick. When you are playing paintball, you are going to chrono before going on the field for the first time that day. Those few shots to check chrono are more than enough to break bolt stiction so that the bolt doesn't need the extra dwell to operate smoothly. During a normal day of play, PE oil or whatever kind of oil you are using on your bolt will not stick to the chamber of your marker. Unless you are playing during the months that nobody plays anyway, because there is snow on the ground and sub-30* weather outside, you don't need FSDO.
As for lubrication. When you tear down your HPR, only use a LIGHT
coating of grease. If you see white (or whatever color your lube is) anywhere but in the creases between metal and an o-ring when you are done, you are wrong. strip it off with a clean rag.
The same goes for the LPR piston.
As for the ram and bolt. Do not soak your bolt or ram in oil. It is too much, and it will simply gum up your gun with dirt, ****, and gelatin. Any and all paintballs sweat. What this means is that in any kind of humidity, the outside of the shell will literally melt into a thin film. When you have a **** ton of oil in your gun, this film will seep down into the ram housing and gum up the o-rings, slowing down the ram, and making your marker shoot very sloppily.
On the bolt, one drop of oil on each the left and right side, inside the detent cutout. It is the small oblong cut out on the side of the bolt at 3 and 9 o'clock. This isn't for bolt lubrication so much as it will keep you from tearing the tips off of your detents, and will make your detents last longer.
As for the ram, one drop on each of the o-rings, including the buffer on the tail end. No more than a single drop on each, because this oil will very easily and very quickly coat the inside of the housing equally. It isn't necessary to use a whole lot, and only do it when you completely clean the gun. It isn't necessary every single time you pull your gun out.
As for getting your marker running extremely efficiently, read this
and go through your gun. This is all very relevant information, and will get you started. It is a very good baseline that will get your gun damn near to optimal settings.
Stock settings are run of the mill. They are an "everyman's setting". What this means is, they are middle of the road for individuals who don't know how to tune, so that they can pull it out of the box, and shoot it the first time, every time and it will work correctly. They are not anywhere NEAR the best performance settings in any direction. They are a starting point for the uneducated user. My settings are a starting point, for the user that want's to educate themselves on the art of Ego tuning, and wants the best performance out of their Ego.
Also, go through this
thread and watch the videos. I wish they were better quality. I plan on redoing them at some point, but since I'm deployed and in the desert, it's a project that remains uncompleted. There are a lot more videos that I want to do as well, but I haven't had the chance. Either way, the videos are helpful and will explain a lot of things to you about your marker.
If there is anything that you still want to know, just ask. There are a lot of threads that will probably cover just about ANY question you have in the Ego forum. Do a search before making a new thread. If you need help with that, ask one of us, just don't be a ******* about it.
I may be a cranky, irritable ****, but I know Egos better than the majority of people you're going to run into. I don't claim to be an expert, but I know my way around an Ego like it's nobody's business. Geos are a secondary passion, but that's another irrelevant point entirely.