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Old 11-09-2011, 02:35 PM #169
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Cute.
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Old 11-09-2011, 02:44 PM #170
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oh, you guys are talking about handegg. I see.

Anyways. Would much rather be playing paintwarz.
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Old 11-09-2011, 03:34 PM #171
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Yah but you r quittin'. i was thinking carbon fiber tanks may have a life of 15 years but you can always get a pump and 13ci or 22ci tanks which, due to cylinder diameter, are like lifetime
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Old 11-09-2011, 03:54 PM #172
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What are you talking about... Get your Canadese out of here.
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Old 11-09-2011, 03:58 PM #173
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Steven Aboutman (pronounced as "Abootman"), President of the World Canadian Bureau asks, "When you think of Canada, what's the one thing that comes to mind?"
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Last edited by Dover : 11-09-2011 at 04:04 PM.
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Old 11-09-2011, 03:59 PM #174
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LMAO dude you have so earned your keep.
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Old 11-09-2011, 04:12 PM #175
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so why are you selling your Ego11 if it is Epic? It's the latest model and will be for a while, POPS ASA, fully adjustable 'noid settings

probably cuz you flip gats for a little extra pocket money and something to do eh ?
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Old 11-09-2011, 04:18 PM #176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dover View Post
so why are you selling your Ego11 if it is Epic? It's the latest model and will be for a while, POPS ASA, fully adjustable 'noid settings

probably cuz you flip gats for a little extra pocket money and something to do eh ?
That's exactly it. I don't play, it's a sick shooter though.
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Old 11-09-2011, 05:47 PM #177
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Cure 4 is in the mail. Stock dents will be back too, had to try out the other way...
IMO Cure4 is louder than Cure3+ but as an upgrade to an older bolt, not a bad bet.

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i should be in this club...
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Cool story bro.
What Viper said.


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You have to upload your photos to the internet first before you can post them.

Also, your CSL will get quieter as it breaks in. Just keep shooting it. My SL94 is almost as quiet as a spoolie because I've put upwards of 200k+ rounds through it.

Just shoot your gun and enjoy it. People trade off guns FAR before they're ever at their prime. Shoot it. A LOT. It will get a ton better.
I've never thought the Ego was that loud really... i've heard some damn loud Ego's, and that's more to do with barrel choice, and tuning.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Collin_CSL_Owner View Post
i have dwell at 3,8 which sounds better but thanks i will set dwell to stock
that's not your dwell. 3/8 is your solenoid flow restrictor settings. If your dwell were 3.8 your gun should not fire.

Dwell is listed in your board good sir. RTFM

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That's exactly it. I don't play, it's a sick shooter though.
Except with himself don't let him fool you.
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Old 11-09-2011, 06:16 PM #178
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Driver, figure out which MT knife you want yet?
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Old 11-09-2011, 06:25 PM #179
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90% sure that It'll be the HALO
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Old 11-09-2011, 08:57 PM #180
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You've got that much cash to spare? I really want one of those but $550 for a knife is too much, even for me. lol.

I'm thinking that my next one will probably be the MT Kestrel.
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Old 11-10-2011, 04:04 AM #181
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Ok thanks. How many shots do you usually have to put through it before it's broken in? I've already put near 35k through it and thats well over the ten case break-in period that i have been told about. Also can you recommend some good settings for dwell and solenoid and such?
There is a very LARGE misconception in the paintball community that there is some magic number where a paintball marker is "broken in". There isn't one. There is an average of about 10,000 shots where a marker is reasonably broken in to where someone can expect consistent results from tuning.

Your tuning that you are using now isn't going to be the same 10,000 shots from now. "Break in" simply means that the parts are wearing together. No, not wearing out, wearing in.

Like new pistons in a brand new engine. The piston rings are going to wear in. They are going to be tight and have a very close tolerance initially, that's why you're not supposed to hot rod a brand new car, you can blow the motor up that way. Once there has been a fairly reasonable amount of time and mileage on the car, hot rod all day if you want.

My comments about people trading off paintball markers before they've even been given a chance is because a paintball marker doesn't go through a lot of stress during the firing cycle. The metal doesn't heat up, there isn't a great amount of friction, there aren't a lot of moving parts, etc. so they keep their tight tolerances for a LOT longer. Firearms on the other hand go through quite a bit of pressure, heat, and have many metal on metal moving parts, so they wear in, then wear out, much quicker. I think this may be what people expect and it is not the case.

Not to throw my credentials around or try to stroke my own dick, but I've spent a lot of time working on and tuning Egos, and have found by a pretty large consensus from the people that I have tuned for is that my set-up works well. I haven't played around with the new '11 solenoids a whole lot, and haven't gotten too far in depth on the mechanics of solenoid adjustability, but from what I have read and heard is that 3/7 is where to be.

For the other settings; Put FSDO time at 0, and FSDO dwell at 0. Basically, this is to counteract bolt stick. When you are playing paintball, you are going to chrono before going on the field for the first time that day. Those few shots to check chrono are more than enough to break bolt stiction so that the bolt doesn't need the extra dwell to operate smoothly. During a normal day of play, PE oil or whatever kind of oil you are using on your bolt will not stick to the chamber of your marker. Unless you are playing during the months that nobody plays anyway, because there is snow on the ground and sub-30* weather outside, you don't need FSDO.

As for lubrication. When you tear down your HPR, only use a LIGHT coating of grease. If you see white (or whatever color your lube is) anywhere but in the creases between metal and an o-ring when you are done, you are wrong. strip it off with a clean rag.

The same goes for the LPR piston.

As for the ram and bolt. Do not soak your bolt or ram in oil. It is too much, and it will simply gum up your gun with dirt, ****, and gelatin. Any and all paintballs sweat. What this means is that in any kind of humidity, the outside of the shell will literally melt into a thin film. When you have a **** ton of oil in your gun, this film will seep down into the ram housing and gum up the o-rings, slowing down the ram, and making your marker shoot very sloppily.

On the bolt, one drop of oil on each the left and right side, inside the detent cutout. It is the small oblong cut out on the side of the bolt at 3 and 9 o'clock. This isn't for bolt lubrication so much as it will keep you from tearing the tips off of your detents, and will make your detents last longer.

As for the ram, one drop on each of the o-rings, including the buffer on the tail end. No more than a single drop on each, because this oil will very easily and very quickly coat the inside of the housing equally. It isn't necessary to use a whole lot, and only do it when you completely clean the gun. It isn't necessary every single time you pull your gun out.

As for getting your marker running extremely efficiently, read this and go through your gun. This is all very relevant information, and will get you started. It is a very good baseline that will get your gun damn near to optimal settings.

Stock settings are run of the mill. They are an "everyman's setting". What this means is, they are middle of the road for individuals who don't know how to tune, so that they can pull it out of the box, and shoot it the first time, every time and it will work correctly. They are not anywhere NEAR the best performance settings in any direction. They are a starting point for the uneducated user. My settings are a starting point, for the user that want's to educate themselves on the art of Ego tuning, and wants the best performance out of their Ego.

Also, go through this thread and watch the videos. I wish they were better quality. I plan on redoing them at some point, but since I'm deployed and in the desert, it's a project that remains uncompleted. There are a lot more videos that I want to do as well, but I haven't had the chance. Either way, the videos are helpful and will explain a lot of things to you about your marker.

If there is anything that you still want to know, just ask. There are a lot of threads that will probably cover just about ANY question you have in the Ego forum. Do a search before making a new thread. If you need help with that, ask one of us, just don't be a ******* about it.

I may be a cranky, irritable ****, but I know Egos better than the majority of people you're going to run into. I don't claim to be an expert, but I know my way around an Ego like it's nobody's business. Geos are a secondary passion, but that's another irrelevant point entirely.
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Old 11-10-2011, 11:08 AM #182
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Holy ****!!! Super ultra epic TL;DR.
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Old 11-10-2011, 11:11 AM #183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DriverJ View Post
IMO Cure4 is louder than Cure3+ but as an upgrade to an older bolt, not a bad bet.





What Viper said.




I've never thought the Ego was that loud really... i've heard some damn loud Ego's, and that's more to do with barrel choice, and tuning.



that's not your dwell. 3/8 is your solenoid flow restrictor settings. If your dwell were 3.8 your gun should not fire.

Dwell is listed in your board good sir. RTFM



Except with himself don't let him fool you.
Sorry thats what i meanet. at school trying to not get caught = ******* up your words
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Old 11-10-2011, 11:23 AM #184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viperashes View Post
There is a very LARGE misconception in the paintball community that there is some magic number where a paintball marker is "broken in". There isn't one. There is an average of about 10,000 shots where a marker is reasonably broken in to where someone can expect consistent results from tuning.

Your tuning that you are using now isn't going to be the same 10,000 shots from now. "Break in" simply means that the parts are wearing together. No, not wearing out, wearing in.

Like new pistons in a brand new engine. The piston rings are going to wear in. They are going to be tight and have a very close tolerance initially, that's why you're not supposed to hot rod a brand new car, you can blow the motor up that way. Once there has been a fairly reasonable amount of time and mileage on the car, hot rod all day if you want.

My comments about people trading off paintball markers before they've even been given a chance is because a paintball marker doesn't go through a lot of stress during the firing cycle. The metal doesn't heat up, there isn't a great amount of friction, there aren't a lot of moving parts, etc. so they keep their tight tolerances for a LOT longer. Firearms on the other hand go through quite a bit of pressure, heat, and have many metal on metal moving parts, so they wear in, then wear out, much quicker. I think this may be what people expect and it is not the case.

Not to throw my credentials around or try to stroke my own dick, but I've spent a lot of time working on and tuning Egos, and have found by a pretty large consensus from the people that I have tuned for is that my set-up works well. I haven't played around with the new '11 solenoids a whole lot, and haven't gotten too far in depth on the mechanics of solenoid adjustability, but from what I have read and heard is that 3/7 is where to be.

For the other settings; Put FSDO time at 0, and FSDO dwell at 0. Basically, this is to counteract bolt stick. When you are playing paintball, you are going to chrono before going on the field for the first time that day. Those few shots to check chrono are more than enough to break bolt stiction so that the bolt doesn't need the extra dwell to operate smoothly. During a normal day of play, PE oil or whatever kind of oil you are using on your bolt will not stick to the chamber of your marker. Unless you are playing during the months that nobody plays anyway, because there is snow on the ground and sub-30* weather outside, you don't need FSDO.

As for lubrication. When you tear down your HPR, only use a LIGHT coating of grease. If you see white (or whatever color your lube is) anywhere but in the creases between metal and an o-ring when you are done, you are wrong. strip it off with a clean rag.

The same goes for the LPR piston.

As for the ram and bolt. Do not soak your bolt or ram in oil. It is too much, and it will simply gum up your gun with dirt, ****, and gelatin. Any and all paintballs sweat. What this means is that in any kind of humidity, the outside of the shell will literally melt into a thin film. When you have a **** ton of oil in your gun, this film will seep down into the ram housing and gum up the o-rings, slowing down the ram, and making your marker shoot very sloppily.

On the bolt, one drop of oil on each the left and right side, inside the detent cutout. It is the small oblong cut out on the side of the bolt at 3 and 9 o'clock. This isn't for bolt lubrication so much as it will keep you from tearing the tips off of your detents, and will make your detents last longer.

As for the ram, one drop on each of the o-rings, including the buffer on the tail end. No more than a single drop on each, because this oil will very easily and very quickly coat the inside of the housing equally. It isn't necessary to use a whole lot, and only do it when you completely clean the gun. It isn't necessary every single time you pull your gun out.

As for getting your marker running extremely efficiently, read this and go through your gun. This is all very relevant information, and will get you started. It is a very good baseline that will get your gun damn near to optimal settings.

Stock settings are run of the mill. They are an "everyman's setting". What this means is, they are middle of the road for individuals who don't know how to tune, so that they can pull it out of the box, and shoot it the first time, every time and it will work correctly. They are not anywhere NEAR the best performance settings in any direction. They are a starting point for the uneducated user. My settings are a starting point, for the user that want's to educate themselves on the art of Ego tuning, and wants the best performance out of their Ego.

Also, go through this thread and watch the videos. I wish they were better quality. I plan on redoing them at some point, but since I'm deployed and in the desert, it's a project that remains uncompleted. There are a lot more videos that I want to do as well, but I haven't had the chance. Either way, the videos are helpful and will explain a lot of things to you about your marker.

If there is anything that you still want to know, just ask. There are a lot of threads that will probably cover just about ANY question you have in the Ego forum. Do a search before making a new thread. If you need help with that, ask one of us, just don't be a ******* about it.

I may be a cranky, irritable ****, but I know Egos better than the majority of people you're going to run into. I don't claim to be an expert, but I know my way around an Ego like it's nobody's business. Geos are a secondary passion, but that's another irrelevant point entirely.
This is awsome thanks so much.
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Old 11-10-2011, 01:35 PM #185
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No problem buddy.

**** you Trey. <3
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Old 11-10-2011, 04:29 PM #186
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I would congratulate you, but I know you just copy pasta'd it...

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Old 11-10-2011, 04:30 PM #187
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Old 11-10-2011, 04:37 PM #188
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No problem buddy.

**** you Trey. <3
Shut your mouth when you're talking to a zipper suited sun god.
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Old 11-10-2011, 04:38 PM #189
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Wow thanks Chev and Trey, i just learned something from you guys, i had to Google " TL;DR " and now i know more about Ego care

*EDIT Sun God ? ... ALL HAIL BURNS !!!

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