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Old 03-25-2011, 08:58 PM #22
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what cad system do you use cs? i can help with cad. (it is my actual job)
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Old 03-25-2011, 09:01 PM #23
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sure, that would work perfect. All I really need to do is get it into CAD.
Was going to donate mine, but looks like KM has it handled.

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When I ship ya my shocker for milling, I'll toss my nerve in there for you to do your CAD thing with then also. All I ask in return is that any nerve parts be named after me then. Like the KMRam, or the Monster Bolt... that would be awsome. I really can't bear to part with my nerve permanently. LOL
Thanks.

I like Monster Bolt.
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Old 03-25-2011, 09:19 PM #24
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I use solidworks at home and at work. I don't care who's I get, so long as it's in working condition.
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Old 03-25-2011, 09:24 PM #25
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Make valve poppits. Easy to make and youll prolly be able to sell a lot of them. Cant get them. If a valve starts leaking you either start re-finishing the surface or just dont use it anymore. I re-finished a few but it would be nice if one could be purchased.
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Old 03-25-2011, 09:39 PM #26
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Gisgo, ya may wanna send him yours then. I've got mine in running condition but not tuned yet. Been working on my project shocker also and now building an SFT for my son with him.

OOH, could be the Gis-Bolt then.
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Old 03-27-2011, 08:30 PM #27
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I'd like to see a low'ed pressure poppit, or faster recharge maxflo's.
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Old 03-27-2011, 08:54 PM #28
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i use solidworks 10' also let me know what parts you need modeled and i can try and get them for you. all i ask in return is any stock parts you model i would not mind a copy
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Old 03-28-2011, 11:49 AM #29
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Damn you and your solidworks. Stuck with Pro-e at school here. I hates it so much.
Also glad to see some support coming out for this.
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Old 03-28-2011, 01:42 PM #30
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pro-E sucks major ***.
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Old 03-28-2011, 02:57 PM #31
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yeah hate it. Inventor was a better program(and it isnt even that powerful)
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Old 03-29-2011, 05:16 PM #32
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im a solidworks and pro e (or Creo now) guy. inventor i just dont get along with why you ask i dont know i just hate it.
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Old 03-29-2011, 05:34 PM #33
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inventor and solidworks are very similar...because they are made by the same people...kind of...
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Old 03-29-2011, 05:41 PM #34
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right now I am probably better with Pro e since thats what Penn State uses but it is such a poor package to use. Atleast student version but I imagine there isnt much difference.
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Old 03-29-2011, 07:14 PM #35
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i dont know what it is i was taught pro e in tech school i taught my self solidworks. i "aquired" inventor 10 and tried to teach myself how to use it but it seams i always ended up beating my head off the keyboard. i figured 2 outta 3 main engineering softwares aint bad so i just quit using it as much as i can. I still have to use inventor 9 at work sometimes with legacy files but if at all possible i try not to even open it. honestly sometimes its easier for me to make changes with photo shop on the old drawings rather than try to do it with inventor.
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Old 03-30-2011, 02:21 PM #36
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What would it take to lower the pressure, I'm trying to do some work with a nerve I just picked up. I was thinking to just switch to lighter springs in the lpr and valve..
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Old 03-30-2011, 02:54 PM #37
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A lighter spring in the LPR could actually be counter productive to what you are trying to achieve. The LPR controls the pressure used to cycle the rammer, and will have an effect on the rammers speed. Speed is obviously a component of the energy that the rammer has to open the valve. One way of approaching your wish to lower the pressure used to fire the ball would be to open the valve further, and/or for longer. That will mean more air released, and to a degree (there comes a point where there is no reason to release any more, as irrespective of the volume of air or the pressure of that air, the ball has already left the barrel and cannot accelerate anymore, and so any additional air released at this stage is just being wasted), releasing more air will allow you to get up to velocity at a lower pressure.

So, if we want to get the pressure down, we want to ensure that the valve opens wide as possible, and stays open for a (relatively, but not excessively) long time. That means keeping the LPR pressure up (not turning it down) and increasing the dwell.

Other things may also assist, such as barrel design, good paint to barrel fit (or maybe a slight underbore), a high flowing bolt, etc.
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Old 03-30-2011, 03:06 PM #38
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What would it take to lower the pressure, I'm trying to do some work with a nerve I just picked up. I was thinking to just switch to lighter springs in the lpr and valve..
Honestly, if you balance the regs correctly and set your dwell right, your gun will be quieter and have less kick than if you drop your hpr + lpr and up your dwell.

Every gun is slightly different of course. But I used to run my nerve at 170 psi(hpr) with a dwell of around 10 (parker). The kick and sound was fairly low for a poppet, but efficiency was bad. I dropped the dwell to 7 or 8 (can't remember off hand). Upped the hpr to around 210ish and set the lpr as low as possible while maintaining consistency. The kick is roughly the same while the sound is quieter (more of a snap). Efficiency is much better. It really all comes down to how much energy you use and how you use it.
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Old 03-30-2011, 03:12 PM #39
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I'm wanting to reduce the amount of force needed to open the valve. Smoother shot is what is what I'm hoping to achieve.
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Old 03-30-2011, 03:22 PM #40
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Honestly, if you balance the regs correctly and set your dwell right, your gun will be quieter and have less kick than if you drop your hpr + lpr and up your dwell.

Every gun is slightly different of course. But I used to run my nerve at 170 psi(hpr) with a dwell of around 10 (parker). The kick and sound was fairly low for a poppet, but efficiency was bad. I dropped the dwell to 7 or 8 (can't remember off hand). Upped the hpr to around 210ish and set the lpr as low as possible while maintaining consistency. The kick is roughly the same while the sound is quieter (more of a snap). Efficiency is much better. It really all comes down to how much energy you use and how you use it.
I have mine turned for consistency as of now. I'm just thinking there has to be a way to drop the pressure from ~ 230.
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Old 03-30-2011, 03:27 PM #41
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Aah, fair enough, I thought you were wanting to get the operating pressure down, not the cycling pressure. Though having said that, getting the OP down would help (though not necessarily forcing it down as low as possible as I was describing) as high operating pressures act to hold the valve closed, which would require higher LPR pressures. Between dwell, HPR and LPR (even before you get to changing springs if you take that route), getting the exact performance you are after - or at least the best possible compromise - without negatively impacting on another aspect of the markers performance, can be a bit of a balancing act (I've used that phrase a few times today, in Etek tuning threads.....).
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Old 03-30-2011, 03:49 PM #42
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It is a nice line. I figure that as long as its balanced it would work, tho I have no idea how to gauge spring tension.
I do have a few more nub questions if you don't mind giving some help.


Sft eye on the right and nerve on the left?
And the the strip is plunged how I'm showing it or flip'd the other way?
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