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Old 09-12-2010, 03:37 AM #64
BigJoeNobody
 
 
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thx for the post
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Old 09-21-2010, 05:06 PM #65
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Deff much appreciated!

Just the info I was looking for thanks
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Old 09-24-2010, 02:34 PM #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dabigmanh View Post
g3s suck
Mhmm.

Guys, lets not explode. I say we handle this like adults.

bigman, why do you think the g3 sucks?
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Old 09-24-2010, 02:38 PM #67
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Unless it's R/T, but his join date is jan 2010..
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Old 09-25-2010, 10:33 AM #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dabigmanh View Post
g3s suck
you dont haveee to be in this forum.. you can go crawl back to were you came from
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Old 09-25-2010, 10:41 PM #69
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thank you for posting this i am getting a G3 in a couple days and i hope i wont need this but if i do i will i will know what to do. thanks
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Old 09-25-2010, 11:23 PM #70
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That's what were here for Post up any questions you have, and we'll help you out to the best of our abilities
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Old 10-10-2010, 12:51 AM #71
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I lost my g3 se manual =( first day i got the gun read it then lost it went to the site all there stuff had dip switches on it and was for the g3 or the g3 le not the se
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Old 10-10-2010, 07:33 AM #72
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does your board have 2 dip switches or non?

does it have the opti switch or microswitch?
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Old 10-10-2010, 11:50 AM #73
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It has the 2 dip switches for i think the tourney lock its labeled 1 and 2 in alil blue box. as far as the other question im still new to paintball scm killa could tell you i bought the gun from him.
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Old 10-10-2010, 04:25 PM #74
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have you pmed him? he should know what manual to use. DP dosnt seem to have the manual online.

http://www.dangerouspower.com/downlo...StockBoard.pdf

that might work.. but its not the EXACT same board.. its the best i can do right now.
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Old 01-30-2011, 01:04 AM #75
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I have a G3 SE stock board and the 2 dip switches on the board seem like they dont do anything. If i put it in lock mode or config mode it still seems like they dont do anything. i put it in lock mode and you can still program the board and do everything with the gun??? Please help i have no idea what im doing wrong or if im even flipping the switches the right way
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Old 02-09-2011, 07:22 PM #76
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sounds like a good gun
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Old 02-09-2011, 08:47 PM #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weeman38 View Post
I have a G3 SE stock board and the 2 dip switches on the board seem like they dont do anything. If i put it in lock mode or config mode it still seems like they dont do anything. i put it in lock mode and you can still program the board and do everything with the gun??? Please help i have no idea what im doing wrong or if im even flipping the switches the right way
Did you read the manual? If you did, and you're confident you're doing it right, I would give DP a call tomorrow. Tell them you don't think your dip switches are functioning on your board, and see what they say.

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Old 02-10-2011, 10:31 PM #78
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yes i did what the Manuel said and nothing changed. i had a DP guy look at it last Mon. at our touny and he wanted to charge me $25 just to look at it? In my opinion i hate their customer service (sent my gun in about 2 months ago and got it back with a broken reg and cross threaded set screw) thanks for the help though. I think ill just sell it
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Old 05-16-2011, 08:33 PM #79
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nice to know!
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Old 07-10-2011, 07:23 PM #80
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good job
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Old 11-14-2011, 04:53 PM #81
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ok guys i have some question. cuz jsut got a ego havent touch my g3 for about 2month. just played with it last weekend. there is something odd about my g3 now. i have g3 with APE and TechT engine. i put the dwell at 8, abs dwell at 2, abs reset time at 10, breech delay at 3, bolt return at 12. for some reason when i chrono it the FPS keep going from 150 and jump to about 250. wondering if that is because of the bolt stick or just the dwell is little messed up. i am using the TechT Gun Sav for lubing the gun. i just set the dwell to 10 and abs to 3 and bolt return to 18ms, and relubed the bolt hope this will fix the problem. if any of you guys know whats going on with my gun pls help =P
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Old 11-14-2011, 07:04 PM #82
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I am new to painball and have no clue...I apologize. I am just here for comedy relief.
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Old 11-14-2011, 07:40 PM #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blue9uy View Post
ok guys i have some question. cuz jsut got a ego havent touch my g3 for about 2month. just played with it last weekend. there is something odd about my g3 now. i have g3 with APE and TechT engine. i put the dwell at 8, abs dwell at 2, abs reset time at 10, breech delay at 3, bolt return at 12. for some reason when i chrono it the FPS keep going from 150 and jump to about 250. wondering if that is because of the bolt stick or just the dwell is little messed up. i am using the TechT Gun Sav for lubing the gun. i just set the dwell to 10 and abs to 3 and bolt return to 18ms, and relubed the bolt hope this will fix the problem. if any of you guys know whats going on with my gun pls help =P
Service the regulator.
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Old 11-15-2011, 12:39 AM #84
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G3 and G4 troubleshooting:

1. Bolt stick:
a. Clean the bolt and all o-rings that the bolt touches of any and all lubricant. Use Gold Cup or Techt Juice drops and coat the bolt inside and out and o-rings with oil. Push the bolt in all the way and through the feed neck put another drop of oil on the bolt. Everything should be wet with oil, but no drips. Slide the bolt in and out a few times to distribute the oil. Don't forget to lube the back cap o-ring. Reassemble the gun and try dry firing it. Oil doesn't stay put and will blow off after around 1000 shots. You will probably need to relube more often with oil than with grease. At this point if you shoot a lot and then bolt stick comes back, it's because your oil has all blown off.

b. Turn the reg screw all the way in to effectively set the pressure to zero. Air up, and try dry firing the gun. Turn the reg screw out a little and pull the trigger. Keep turning the reg screw out while pulling the trigger until the bolt starts firing. Turn up the reg a little more until the bolt fires strongly. Dry fire 30 more times or so. Chronograph and you should be good to go.

c. Sometimes bolt stick comes back after degassing and letting the gun sit for a while. Replace the back 2 o-rings inside the gun. Those o-rings are probably swollen. Slide the bolt onto the back cap. The back cap o-ring is pretty hard and the bolt should slide on easily. If it is really tight, replace that o-ring too. Relube with oil like step b and air up. Try dry firing again. You may have to play with the reg again.

d. After you have shot around a case through the gun you can go to a dow33 based grease and you probably will only have bolt stick becasue you aren't relubing periodically. Don't use dow44 based grease as it will swell your o-rings and you will have to replace them again.

e. If you still have bolt stick issues, set your dwell to 15-17 and the ABS to 4. you will use more air, but after the o-rings are broken in after a case or 2 of paint, you can reduce the dwell to 9 or 10 and ABS back to factory, and use a dow33 grease.

f. If after going to a dow33 grease you still have bolt stick issues, you may have used too much grease, not broken in the o-rings sufficiently or have the dwell/ABS set too low.

2. Solenoid issues:
a. Degass, install a NEW battery, turn on the gun, turn off the eys and try again.

b. The solenoid clicks, but the gun doesn't fire. DP solenoids do not directly switch air on and off. The solenoid opens and closes a tiny pin hole valve that allows air pressure to push a piston back and forth. It is unlikely that you will ever need to service the actual solenoid or it's pinhole valve which is why DP has hidden access to it under security tape. The piston is what switches the air on and off. Remove the solenoid from the gun. Be careful to NOT lose the two tiny o-rings under the solenoid!!! There is a screw cap in the end of the solenoid. It has locktite on it so it doesn't unscrew accidentally. You will need a wrench and standard screw driver to remove it. There is a piston with 3 o-rings on it under the screw cap. You may need needle nose pliers to pull out the piston. Make note of which way the piston goes in. One end has a small post and the other end doesn't. The post end is there so you can pull out the piston once the screw cap is removed. Use a q-tip to clean out the inside of the solenoid. Wipe down the piston and then relube with a dow33 grease. Reassemble the solenoid and put blue locktite on the screw cap threads. Reassemble the gun and try dry firing it. If the gun fires normally, you are good to go. Otherwise check for bolt stick issues.

3. Leaks:
a. Microline leaks can usually be "fixed" by wiggleling the microline in the fittings.

b. Pull out your microline on the end that leaks. Make sure the microline isn't scratched around the end or damaged. Replace the microline if needed.

c. Put some dow33 grease in the fitting around the internal o-ring and on the microline end. Reinstert the hose and gas up. Dow33 will often times "seal" up minor leaks.

d. Replace the microline fitting if all else fails.

e. Leaks around the bolt are usually caused by damaged or worn bolt o-ring but not always. Remove the back cap, inspect the bolt for scratches down its length. If it is scratched very deeply, you will leak air. Otherwise clean everything and relube. Gas up and check for leaks.

f. With the gun gassed up, listen to where the leak is. Most leaks happen aroung the o-ring on the end of the back cap where it goes inside the bolt. You can put your finger down the feed neck and seal it around the end of the bolt. If you feel pressure build up behind your finger, the o-ring on the end of the back cap is leaking. Apply some dow44 or other lube that will cause swelling on this o-ring only. Probably the o-ring is just a tiny bit too small and not seating well enough inside the bolt. I have attempted replacing this o-ring twice myself on my G4 and it did not stop the leaking until I made the o-ring swell a little. You can also hold a lighter to the center shaft which will heat up the o-ring and will cause it to swell. Don't apply flame directly to the o-ring as that will just burn it.

g. If you put your finger over the end of the bolt and it doesn't pressurize behind your finger, but is still leaking around the bolt end, then the large, back most o-ring inside the gun is damaged or worn. Replace it and check for leaks again.

h. This one sucks because you might have to replace something important. You can damage the o-ring seats if you scratch them while removing an o-ring. Dental picks are very useful in removing o-rings, but keep in mind that the pick is made out of stainless steel and the gun is aluminum. You can damage an o-ring seat very easily and create a leak in the process. If you scratch an o-ring seat, you may be able to smooth it back out again since aluminum is very soft and maliable. If that doesn't work, you will need to replace the damaged part.

h. The smaller o-ring on the back side of the feed neck is your next culprit, but it only really gets used when the bolt is forward when a ball is fired. This o-ring seals around the bolt for the short time needed to reset the bolt for the next shot. The front most o-ring is there purely to keep the bolt centered in the gun and to keep air from going up the feed neck. It doesn't really seal anything.

i. Leaks around the back cap. Check the o-ring behind the threads on the back cap for damage. If it looks fine, clean the o-ring, apply a small amount of dow33 to it and clean the threaded area at the back of the gun. Reassemble and check for leaks. Replace the back cap outer o-ring if needed

j. Air puffing around the grip frame when you pull the trigger. You have bolt stick issues.

k. Leaking from the grip frame. The solenoid piston o-rings or the o-rings under the solenoid are leaking.
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