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Old 09-08-2010, 11:36 PM #1
Muddytaco
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Walkthrough: Mounting DM5 UL frame to '04 Viking and making it tray length

After searching everywhere for a PM5 frame and coming up with nothing I decided to move on to the next best thing, DM5 UL frame.

In this walkthrough I am going to show you how to make the DM5 UL frame fit so it will be tray length and nothing more. I am doing this b/c I plan on getting my viking FSP cut, so obvious it needs to be tray length or shorter.

Ok here we go:

First Lined up the frame just to see what all needed to be done to make it work......Going to use the stock front mount, so bare min it requires drilling a new rear mount and chopping off the back so it actually looks right:






First problem I ran into was that viking uses a bigger 10-32 screw to mount the frame so it wouldn't fit the stock mount:




After alot with various files I got it in:




Next problem, the channel for allen wrench was to small to fit a 1/8" wrench needed for the 10-32 screw so I had to drill it out:




After drilling the rear hole there was a problem with the screw not sitting level b/c of the slope in the frame so I had to flaten that area out:




Dremeled that area and was later clean up with sandpaper:




Next up, my favorite thing to do, hack up brand new parts with permanent mods .....after measuring a few times it was time to chop off the back:




Next I decided to do something about the milled in slots that use to hold the dye logos.....since the rear was lobbed off there is no way the stickers are going to fit back in:



I used alot of different files and shaped it out to flow without having a hard line anywhere......after that I went crazy and smoothed out the middle and the front of the frame also so there is no hard edges. Ended up with this:






Finished and mounted:









All I got left is to make a tray to hold the microswitch since I am going to use the viking tadao board still, should have it finished up by tomorrow.

Obviously if you do this your going to need to send in the frame for anno.
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Old 09-08-2010, 11:46 PM #2
nevets11_2003
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Nice, Just please don't FSP a Highlander!
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Old 09-09-2010, 12:35 AM #3
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Originally Posted by nevets11_2003 View Post
Nice, Just please don't FSP a Highlander!
I agree, the hidden ASA cut looks so much cleaner.
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Old 09-09-2010, 12:53 AM #4
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Old 09-10-2010, 08:21 PM #5
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Made a UL board from aluminum today to hold the microswitch in place:




Rough outline:




After first cutout:




After files and auto body hammers:



All the holes drilled:




Test fit:




Had to chop out more for battery to fit but here it is completed:





Video is being uploaded to youtube right now.


.
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Old 09-10-2010, 08:46 PM #6
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Nice. I guess the dremel could be a good alternative to the "files and auto body hammers" for smoothing the mock board plate. Good job and good thread. FSP that thing and cut it up some more, like speed holes and secret stuff.
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Old 09-10-2010, 09:24 PM #7
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I guess you could use a dremel, I prefer not to as it tends to catch and run off to areas you don't want it to go.
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Old 09-10-2010, 09:35 PM #8
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Awsome work!
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Old 09-10-2010, 10:43 PM #9
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Question

What was wrong with the frame it had on it ?


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Old 09-10-2010, 10:58 PM #10
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Quote:
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What was wrong with the frame it had on it ?
I do prefer stock AKA frames..

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I guess you could use a dremel, I prefer not to as it tends to catch and run off to areas you don't want it to go.
Hey, it's an hidden piece, and with patience and steady hands, there's no problem, dremel is a tool like another, you just need the patience to use it correctly, just like a file and a hacksaw.
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Old 10-09-2010, 01:41 PM #11
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The gun is now in my hands, the stock frame is currently on the gun. Nothing is wrong with it
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Old 10-09-2010, 03:26 PM #12
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The gun is now in my hands, the stock frame is currently on the gun. Nothing is wrong with it
yeah!!!!
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