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Old 10-11-2007, 11:11 PM #1
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To help clean up some of the stickies..:

General

RULES RULES RULES RULES RULES! MUST READ BEFORE POSTING!

E-Cocker Faq! - MVPaintballer

Everything you need to know about an Autococker - m_dogg2021

Complete Solenoid Maintenance Guide! - tricked03cocker

Official E-Cocker Video Thread!

Official E-Cocker Picture Thread!

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Frame Specific

E-Blade Tuning Guide - GatoradeA-5

WGP Select-Fire/WorrFrame FAQ
The Insane Shane
shadoflame

E-Blade Information Thread - J-Doe - This applies to WorrBlades as well.

Share your Racegun Settings Thread!

MQ2 Settings Thread!

Yakuza Settings Thread!

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DIY

Ego Feedneck Mod! - Conbon

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Upgrades?!

Regulators!

Rams!

Rams 2!

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Informational

All about Merlins?! - thatdoolinkid
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Last edited by CyberThug : 03-23-2009 at 11:08 AM.
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Old 10-12-2007, 07:42 AM #2
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Awesome, just awesome! I think we have sticky material at foot!

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Old 10-18-2007, 12:17 PM #3
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Could i sudjest adding the ram and reg discussion threads to this- they where both informative and had good running conversations on pro's and cons of many currently available products for the cocker world.

edit:
was meaning this ram thread:

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2364130

but both are good on info.

thanks for the addition- ultimate stickies are great!
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Last edited by Xadion : 10-18-2007 at 07:10 PM.
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Old 12-15-2007, 03:13 PM #4
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Old 12-20-2007, 07:55 PM #5
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Worrframe SF Modification for E-blade Boards

4 things have to be done in order to adapt your worrframe to accept e-blade boards:
- increase the panel area for the e-blade LCD screen, also drilling on the right to make an opening for the LCD screen.
- on the inside of the frame, at the back (opposite side of the holes for the buttons), take off 1,5mm of metal from that area, so that the button bases can sit even with the frame body.
- drill 3 holes for the buttons, and make the buttons (you choose how you'll make the holes and the size of the buttons, i suggest small buttons)
- Make a Panel for the LCD screen.
* Re-annodize the frame if you want


Step 1:
First, remove the worrframe and the on-off led button. You'll notice there's a square casing for it, with an opening on the left for the circuits... You'll use the width of this square but you'll have to broaden its height/length to properly glue a LCD cover on the frame, AND to properly be able to SEE the whole LCD screen. You can increase this unleveled area as much as you want, just make sure you drill a hole big enough on the right of the LCD screen or you won't be able to see everything and maybe won't be able to USE the LCD screen to CONFIGURE the board properly (and that's the whole point of this mod).



When you go for the drilling, increase the casing of the LCD screen, starting 1,5cm from the base of the frame, until you get to 4,5cm from the base. Actually those are the measurements i used, you don't have to do exactly like i did, i just found those to be easier since i'm used to the meter scale, and because later on, it was easier to me to make a new LCD screen. To measure it right, just take off any rail or bottomline you might have installed on the frame, then put it standing up on a table of flat surface, then measure those values from the surface up, perpendicularly (do not bend the ruler - it has to form a 90║ angle with the surface). Actually in this step of the process, all you have to keep in mind is that you have to maintain the width and depth of the panel opening, and increase its height/length until there's enough space to drill the LCD screen opening (it needs to show out fully), AND to allow gluing the LCD cover on all the borders of the frame opening (bottom, top, left, right).
It will be a big LCD cover, but it will stay glued, and your board will be very safe.



The last thing to do is the frame opening/hole for the LCD screen.. I recommend doing this just after you got the board, since you'll be able to figure out by yourself the amount of space you'll have to open, and where..



Step 2:
Take 1,5mm of metal layer from the back of the frame (inside). This has to be done so that when you put the buttons, its bases won't keep pressing the board buttons.. they need a space to leave the board buttons unpressed. Just take any worrblade or e-blade board on your hands, open it and look inside... you'll see what i mean.







Step 3:
I suggest making the holes and the buttons using the same measurements used on worrblades and e-blade frames. It would be wise to have a worrblade on your side to measure everything up before you drill, just to make sure you're drilling the holes where they should be.

ATTENTION: THE MEASUREMENTS FOR THE HOLES MAY NOT BE VERY ACCURATE.. I REALLY SUGGEST HAVING AN E-BLADE OR AT LEAST AN E-BLADE BOARD IN HANDS TO COMPARE AND DO A BETTER MEASUREMENT FOR THE HOLES... I DO NOT WANT YOU TO DRILL HOLES ON THE WRONG PLACES AND SCREW IT UP... DO EVERYTHING AT YOUR OWN RISK, THIS TUTORIAL IS BEING POSTED JUST IN CASE YOU WANT TO ASSUME THE RISK.





Just remember that the center of the holes have to be right in the middle of the frame (vertically). Horizontally, the holes should start 6cm, 5cm and 4cm from the bottom of the frame mount, as shown in the picture. Each hole should have about 8mm to 8,5mm of diameter, going up. Of course, the holes can't be all open, they have to go through to the other side just in the middle, so the buttons caps don't pop out, in other words, without letting the whole button come off, cause the button bases will be encased in the frame. Make a sphere-like hole When you drill, with an open center to the other side of the frame, and you'll be ok.
You'll see on my pictures i have big cap/large faced buttons... that's actually bad for me, for sometimes i unwantedly push one or more of the buttons in the middle of a game. One of my frames has this problem, because when i took it to the machiner, he told me he didn't have tools to make smaller buttons, thus he had to make the buttons like that. Later on, i did the same modification on another worrframe, this time i got much smaller buttons, but still a little bigger than those on e-blade frames.

Step 4:
Make a transparent LCD cover for the LCD screen, and glue it with silicon.. Don't use anything else to glue... use silicon. If the cover breaks up in some case, you'll be able to easily take it off, take the glue off and reglue another one, no mess, no problems. Besides silicon has proven to be good enough, i've used it on my covers, played many games and it still didn't come off. Besides it seals very well, avoiding infiltrations from there.
Notice there's about 1mm of depth for the cover... I can't measure it now since i would have to take my covers out to do it. There's enough frame to increase the depth for a thicker cover, you'll do what you want, use whatever material you choose... I think i increased the depth a little bit (not sure) and used Compact Disc covers to make these. I took an old CD cover here standing by, cut squares out of it, then sandpapered those squares to the size i needed. Just keep rashing the sides and comparing with the casing from time to time so that you get a very tight cover.
I hope this tutorial helps. After this mod, your black magic or orry will get a new life. Plus i think it's a beautiful frame.

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Last edited by Shadow Crow : 09-04-2008 at 12:17 PM. Reason: better text
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Old 09-22-2010, 04:31 PM #6
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Here is my take on the YAK names of the settings and how they occur.....

YOU PULL THE TRIGGER

1) Sear Noid is energized and dwell time starts to tick off and releases the hammer, hammer moves forward, at the end of the dwell time, power stops flowing to the sear.

2) Bolt Open Delay kicks in right after Dwell, allowing more time if needed for the hammer to strike the valve and sit on valve to ensure full blast of air is released from valve
Note: The paintball is discharged somewhere between steps 1 or 2 and/or during step 2. In theory if you don't allow enough time at the Bolt Open Delay, you could suffer bad shot to shot consistency. This is b/c the board will start to re-cock the hammer, shutting off air flow, before enough air has had time to move through the valve, up the gun and out the bolt.
3) Bolt Open Delay expires and the pnematic noid is activated with the Bolt Open Timer starting, which starts to move the bolt back....one of two things happen here,
a) Eyes off, the bolt open delay starts to count down, holding the bolt open
b) Eyes on, As soon as a paintball loads, the board is ready to close to bolt
4) With either the end of the Bolt Open Delay, or the Eye seeing paint, the Ball In Place Delay starts to count off, allowed for add'l time for the paintball to just settle down into place completely before the front noid is de-energized and starts to close the bolt.
Note: This setting really doesn't do much with the eyes off, the same thing could be accomplished by increasing your Bolt Open Time, however, when you eyes are on, it ensures that even if you eyes are positioned too high, the ball will fall completety into the breech, and/or allows time for the ball to "bounce" around in the breech and settle down from the effects of being loaded. This setting could help reduce chops....and barrel breaks (of which, most are caused by paint being fractured, but not broken in the loading cycle)
5) The bolt is now closing and the the Bolt Close delay is counting down and has expired....the next firing cycle begins with you pulling the trigger and the Sear noid being energized...go back to step 1.
Note: If your bolt close delay is too short, it won't allow enough time for the bolt to fully close before everything resets to step 1. IE...let say at 8 ms of Bolt Close Delay, the bolt is only halfway shut, now if you didn't have addn'l time, such as a total Bolt Close Delay setting of 20 ms, the board would allow the marker to start the firing cycle at this point. The sear would get power, send the hammer to open the valve but the bolt wouldn't be closed yet...at best, you get bad air effecency.....at worst double feeds or the bolt couldn't even open enough to let ball in...and nothing was fired.


That is my take on the settings, what they do and mean.

Using that info, I set up 5 profiles on the YAK board...from a slower, but in theory more consistent shot, to a balls to the wall, forget shot to shot consistency, this is all about ROF setting.
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Old 09-14-2012, 03:42 PM #7
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how hard is it to find an eblade kit nowadays? and how much do they usually go for?
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Old 10-01-2012, 08:34 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sucka T. View Post
how hard is it to find an eblade kit nowadays? and how much do they usually go for?
complete kits w/ board/frame/eyes/eye cover/noid. kinda hard to find them complete.

i just picked up a E1 kit for $80. but id say that was lucky. frame board combos seem to go from $60-$100(depending on board/frame combo) eyes are about $15-30, noids go for around $30-60(depending on modle) so about $150-$200+ if you where to buy an E2/Zero B Eboard set up all togeather with all the nice parts

i know they are for sale all over PBN and other site. i was also on the lookout latley and found lots of Ecocker parts up for sale.
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Old 10-01-2012, 09:27 PM #9
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also add to the DIY section for drilling your cocker for eyes


http://planeteclipse.com/site/product_support

E2 frame manuel page 82 has the templete to lay over your body to map out the holes needed
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Old 04-15-2013, 10:01 PM #10
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Anybody have any info on measurements and other specifics for drilling a tapping a body for eyes? I have searched and cannot find the information on here.
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