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Old 09-06-2010, 05:22 PM #1
Raptor1516
 
 
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Karni maintainence

Alright, I got a Karni not too long ago. I used it yesterday and it was amazing.
Anyway, I need to know the basics of maintaining it, what kind of lube to use, tuning it, etc. I'm new to autocockers, so any help is appreciated.
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Old 09-06-2010, 06:06 PM #2
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they usually recommend a few drop of oil into the asa, air it up and dry fire
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Old 09-06-2010, 08:48 PM #3
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they usually recommend a few drop of oil into the asa, air it up and dry fire
just do this, you may want to remove the barrel 1st just to keep oil out of it, and just a few drops is enough
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Old 09-06-2010, 09:21 PM #4
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You can do that....and it will work...but what won't get lubed will be the hammer and sear...which is critical if you ask me.

If you want to maintain the marker by the book, you will need to get a can of Wurth HHS200... It is $25 for a large can, which is the only way it comes, but it really is a great lube. I spent the money, and five years later I am still on that can after using it for not only myself by a team of 20 members. I use the Wurth on only the hammer/sear, but it can be used on the other parts as well. It is safe for o rings and is super slick, but stays where you put it, so it lasts awhile and doesn't wear off.


I carry this around in my tool kit.
http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...LAID=323881543

If you don't want to buy the wurth, wipe some of the grease on the sear and a drop of the oil. It will mix and be similar to the wurth. I use the grease on everything...if I have the valve out of the gun, I will use the grease on that, as well as the hammer if the wurth is not around. I also use the grease in the ram, 5 way noid, both regulators etc. Both the oil and the grease are VERY safe for o rings. Its great stuff and this little kit is cheap and easy to carry with your field tool kit. Don't be fooled with the size...it is PLENTY to last you.

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Old 09-06-2010, 10:05 PM #5
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This'll sound stupid, but where are the sear and hammer located?
And if I put oil in my asa, wouldn't it get in my HPA tank?
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Old 09-06-2010, 10:28 PM #6
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sears inside the frame, hammers in the lower tube, wipe it down and a very light coat of oil too much will act as a magnet for dirt

just a few drops in the markers asa before you screw on the tank, it won't get in the tank, air pressure will force it thru the marker, just dry fire 15-20 times and you should be good.
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Old 09-07-2010, 05:54 AM #7
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sears inside the frame, hammers in the lower tube, wipe it down and a very light coat of oil too much will act as a magnet for dirt

just a few drops in the markers asa before you screw on the tank, it won't get in the tank, air pressure will force it thru the marker, just dry fire 15-20 times and you should be good.


Here is the manual for an Eblade...which is the same as you have on your Karni.... PE says to use Wurth HHS 2000 as it sets up into a highly adhesive grease....you needs this grease to stay put...oil will work but won't last long.

Being that the hammer/sear are enclosed I have NEVER had a build up of gunk from dirt.

http://files.planeteclipseb2b.com/ec...-MANUAL-EN.pdf


It sounds to me like your not very familar with the autococker or eblade. I would take the time to read the eblade manual...it might shed some light on the whole system for you.
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Old 09-08-2010, 03:22 AM #8
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that type of grease lasts for a very long time, it can be found for cheaper, just look for "white lithium grease". even with extensive use of the gun its something youll only need to do once or twice a year.
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Old 09-10-2010, 03:45 PM #9
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Put 1-2 drops of oil in the ASA and air it up about every 5-10 cases or so. Other than that keep it clear. Its a cocker don't take it apart!!!! DO NOT TAKE IT APART!!! Especially if you don't know how to time it. If it ain't broke don't fix it. They sing like a dream when properly tuned, but they are very easy to mess up. Just put a couple drops of oil in the ASA and clean the breech.
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Old 09-10-2010, 07:25 PM #10
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that type of grease lasts for a very long time, it can be found for cheaper, just look for "white lithium grease". even with extensive use of the gun its something youll only need to do once or twice a year.

That stuff is FAR from white lith grease.... HHS 2000 goes on as a clear liquid that can pentrate to small areas, where it then sets up to a thin clear grease. It is also MUCH slicker then white lith and stays put longer.

And if you talking about the SuperLube, that is far from white lith as well. It more resistent to washing off, clear, synthetic and safe for o rings. White Lith will swell up your o rings.

And taking off the trigger frame so you can lube the hammer and sear does not in any way affect the timing of the marker. You can simply unbolt and bolt the frame back on. In stead of doing what so many people do, and that is be scared of your cocker, learn how it works and how to fix it. Read trouble shooting guides just to familarize yourself a bit....

Last edited by JFGhost : 09-10-2010 at 07:28 PM.
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Old 09-11-2010, 09:50 AM #11
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Originally Posted by JFGhost View Post
Here is the manual for an Eblade...which is the same as you have on your Karni.... PE says to use Wurth HHS 2000 as it sets up into a highly adhesive grease....you needs this grease to stay put...oil will work but won't last long.

Being that the hammer/sear are enclosed I have NEVER had a build up of gunk from dirt.

http://files.planeteclipseb2b.com/ec...-MANUAL-EN.pdf


It sounds to me like your not very familar with the autococker or eblade. I would take the time to read the eblade manual...it might shed some light on the whole system for you.
Maybe i should of said dust, you'd be amazed at where it can penetrate to, and as neither the hammer or sear are completely enclosed since there are openings around the trigger frame for things like wires and the trigger itself, dust and grit can always be an issue. (even more of a problem on half or mid blocked markers) . Never assume someone is not familar with something because they have a different veiw on it.
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Old 09-11-2010, 03:39 PM #12
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Maybe i should of said dust, you'd be amazed at where it can penetrate to, and as neither the hammer or sear are completely enclosed since there are openings around the trigger frame for things like wires and the trigger itself, dust and grit can always be an issue. (even more of a problem on half or mid blocked markers) . Never assume someone is not familar with something because they have a different veiw on it.

I don't know what went on with my post, but I ment to quote you and say to use the Wurth HHS2000 and dust/dirt is not really an issue. Granted I don't have a half/mid block, but neither is the karni. I have never had an issue with dirt/dust/grit build-up inside the lower tube... Oil just simply won't last long down there. This comes from experiance of using the HHS 2000 for four or five years on a total of 5 to 6 different cockers being run for that time period. None, after 4 to 5 years show wear or gunk build up.

As far as you not being familar, that was ment towards the OP, and reading the manual might help him some.

It was aimed at this quote but it got missed in my post.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raptor1516 View Post
This'll sound stupid, but where are the sear and hammer located?
And if I put oil in my asa, wouldn't it get in my HPA tank?

Last edited by JFGhost : 09-11-2010 at 08:26 PM.
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Old 09-11-2010, 04:29 PM #13
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its all good, I've always used oil but then again I tear them down completely after a few days of play for a good cleaning, so long lasting lube has never been an issue for me. But anyway I understand how things can sometimes come across different than you mean them.
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Old 09-11-2010, 08:25 PM #14
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agreed, I just think that with players who want to run a cocker and are not on-top of tearing them down to clean and lube...long lasting lube is a must.

I must also add that I don't go back into the lower tube that often. Only once a year when I do an overhaul. At that time I go back in, clean, replace worn/damged o rings, and re-lube. In my findings, the lower tube, when lubed with HHS 2000 still has plenty of lube on it, and is still fairly clean after a year of play.

I know it is pricey for a can, but it really is good stuff. There is no lube out there like it that I know of besides Crest's Cheetah Grease...which is close.

Last edited by JFGhost : 09-11-2010 at 08:29 PM.
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