It Lives

Kite09 · 07-21-2010, 02:06 PM

So I got the Palmer LPR for my NME. It shoots now, but needs tuned because it sounds "hollow". Any advice?

Nemo128 · 07-21-2010, 08:50 PM

Set the LPR to ~50psi. The Palmer should have no problem with that.

If the gun cycles, set your HPR for FPS. If you're on the stock board and you've futzed with the settings, reset to default. The WAS will rip perfectly fine with stock settings.

If it still sounds hollow, well get over it cuz it'll still mow faces.

Kite09 · 07-21-2010, 09:08 PM

Alright, thanks for the tips. Now I just gotta strip it to fix the leak down the barrel.

Nemo128 · 07-21-2010, 09:28 PM

I had that. It was my poppet seal. There was some lube on it that prevented it from closing well. Cleaned it off and never another problem.

I actually broke the gun down to the detail, including removing the ram sleeve, and cleaned it all spotless. It's worked perfectly since.

Kite09 · 07-21-2010, 09:44 PM

Honestly I have no idea on how to get to the poppet. Can you give me advice on stripping it?

tjs0349 · 07-22-2010, 12:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nemo128

Set the LPR to ~50psi.

That's actually way to low. It should be 70 - 80 psi. It may work at 50, but it's not optimal for the majority of NMEs and will most likely have a negative affect on efficency.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nemo128

I had that. It was my poppet seal. There was some lube on it that prevented it from closing well. Cleaned it off and never another problem.

I actually broke the gun down to the detail, including removing the ram sleeve, and cleaned it all spotless. It's worked perfectly since.

99.9% of the time stripping down, cleaning, and replacing all o-rings will fix a problem.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kite09

Honestly I have no idea on how to get to the poppet. Can you give me advice on stripping it?

You will have to remove the trigger frame frome the body, remove the LPR, remove the front block (set screw that holds it on is underneath the front of the trigger frame), and then the poppet will slide out the front.

Kite09 · 07-22-2010, 12:54 AM

Alright, thanks. And by the way does anyone happen to have some spare eyes?

Nemo128 · 07-22-2010, 09:03 AM

One thing I learned, the set screw holding the ram sleeve was red loctite'd! Be ready to apply some heat to it if so, because it will require an unreasonable amount of time and effort to remove it if you don't.

I reinstalled mine using teflon tape rather than loctite and it's worked perfectly since. Red is overkill.

I'm glad I broke it down, because you'd be surprised how much gunk buildup you don't see beneath the exterior.

Ekho03 · 07-22-2010, 02:27 PM

Every time I do an overhaul I just rescrew that set screw as is. Should I bother using teflon?

Nemo128 · 07-22-2010, 03:21 PM

I use teflon tape because it tightens the screw without forcing you to torque it fully. No loosening by vibration while not slowly stripping the hole. Not using either should be fine, you just have to torque the screw more.

Kite09 · 07-22-2010, 08:05 PM

Ok, after a full tear down and re lube and everything it shots just like it used to. It still has a slight leak down the barrel but it isn't anything major. I re lubed and replaced the poppet o ring, so I am out of ideas. Now I just need to replace the eyes cuz I ripped the eye wires.

Nemo128 · 07-22-2010, 08:13 PM

If you still have a barrel leak, make sure there's nothing on your poppet base and the poppet seal. Also make sure the ram sleeve poppet end is completely clean and unobstructed. Down the barrel, it's gotta be there guaranteed.

Also inspect the poppet seal. If it looks damaged, Paintball Kingdom has new ones for a buck. Make it work the shipping and pick up some detents or other small items while you're at it.

Kite09 · 07-23-2010, 01:53 AM

Well it has been stripped, re-lubed, and rebuilt three or four times now. The poppet o ring and cup seal have both been replaced and greased. The poppet and ram sleeve have all been cleaned, air barbs and hoses are tight; and for the life of me I cannot get rid of the leak. Maybe the seal I put in is the wrong size...

Nemo128 · 07-23-2010, 08:32 AM

The seal size isn't critical as long as it covers the opening to the chamber in the ram sleeve. Hmm... did you replace it with the correct type of seal? If it was the PBK one then it's not the problem. I tried replacing small seals like that with other similar looking discs that would not perform the same. The material choice is important.

Are you sure it's a barrel leak? The barb feeding the front of the ram could sound like a slight barrel leak when it's leaking. The smaller the leak, the harder it is to isolate the exact location.

Have you tested gassing up the marker with the body and frame disassembled? That's how I located a small barb leak when I thought it was a small poppet leak. Also get yourself a small flashlight and inspect the interior of the ram sleeve. Make sure it's not damaged. Pits and grooves on the surface where the cup seal sits could cause that.

Kellerman · 07-29-2010, 05:35 AM

I like Sevvis idea of making it a paper weight...

Kite09 · 07-29-2010, 10:49 AM

Yeah, its still leaking so that may be the best option lol.