The following bolt disassembly is all that is needed for week-to-week maintenance procedures.
Everything else in this thread is only need for more in-depth troubleshooting work.
The drivetrain assembly is removed by first unscrewing the prop shaft assembly by hand. To remove the bolt and can, push the bolt slightly forward with your finger, and then use your finger to "hook" onto one of the slots in the can. Then pull out the bolt/can assembly all at once. The bolt can be removed out of the back of the can once it is out of the body. For normal maintenance this is the only disassembly that you need to perform.
Simply clean and lightly relube the o-rings and reassemble.
However the prop shaft can be further disassembled if needed. The prop shaft is seperated from the back cap by removing the screw in the back of the back cap. This will also remove the sping. The tip of the prop shaft can be unscrewed from the shaft (normally by hand). If these component will not come apart by hand, you can use an allen key through the holes drilled through the side of the shaft/tip.
Close up of the tip and the bumper washer. The GEO2 prop shaft tip is now removable, fluted, chamfered, and uses a bumper washer instead of an o-ring. The new bumper should have much longer life than the o-ring that was previously used. The prop shaft tip is fluted and fits closely inside of the GEO2 bolt. This helps to keep the bolt properly aligned during its entire stroke. The chamfers help to allow adequate airflow to the ball during firing.
Close up of the back cap/spring. The spring loaded prop shaft allows the dump chamber to automatically seal against the bolt during the vent portion of the firing cycle. This is due to the pressure balance, and will help to reduce wasted gas, no matter what your dwell is set to. The back cap assembly should require little to no maintenance.
Next remove the eye covers, detents and grip panels.
Before removing the frame, be sure to disconnect the solenoid and eye wires from the main circuit board.
To remove the frame, first unscrew the front frame screw completely. Second, loosen the rear frame screw (inside the grip panels) by 1/4-1/2 turn. You do not need to remove this screw completely. Once the front frame screw is removed, and the rear screw is loose, you can slide the frame towards the back of the gun and remove it (being careful of the eye and solenoid wires).
The eyes can be removed from their recesses in the body. Be careful to note their orientation (red = right), and that the left side eye sensor must be threaded through the body.
The solenoid is a custom unit that is held to the body by two screws. A gasket is used to provide an airtight seal. The filter is now contained within the gasket to make installation more straight forward. Within the solenoid body there is a ball check valve, spool pack, and pilot assembly.
The trigger used in the GEO2 is compatible with the Ego9/10 trigger and bearing carrier. The carrier is held in place by two screws. The carrier contains two captive bearing assemblies. The trigger pin is inserted through the bearings and trigger, and then locked in place using a set screw in the top of the trigger. The rear of the trigger contains a return spring. The trigger contains adjustments for return spring, return magnet, pre-travel, post-travel, and microswitch activation point.
When re-assembling the frame to the body, careful attention must be paid to the eye and solenoid wires. This is especially true when using a trigger designed for the Ego9/10. There is very little extra space above the trigger, and if the wires are out of place they will restrict the movement of the trigger.
Here's another photo of the disassembled GEO2!