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Old 05-18-2010, 12:19 PM #1
Nemo128
 
 
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Stock NME LE won't cycle

I've isolated the problem to both the ASA and the HPR. It began with the marker simply not firing after the first shot. Check this out:

1. I backed out the ASA a bit and the HPR cycled. I could fire a few shots but each one would recharge slowly. After a couple, it just stops and takes a few seconds to recharge.

2. I put the ASA all the way back in and it will not recharge. Seems the ASA all the way in for some reason won't flow.

3. I swapped the stock ASA for the Eclipse ASA on my black NME. Same behavior as when the stock ASA was slightly backed out. The gun fires but doesn't recharge fast enough.

4. I swapped the CP HPR from the black NME to the olive NME. Gun cycles flawlessly, firing faster than even the black one will. Make a mental note to check the settings of the Predator board in the black NME.

5. Put the stock ASA back on with the CP HPR and the ASA still fails as previously described.

6. Took apart the whole ASA and stock HPR, including the barbs which were a F&%#$%@$ B&%$# to remove.

That's where I am at right now. I don't care about replacing the ASA since I don't like the stock one anyway. However, I like the look of the gun with the stock HPR. I'm hoping I can find and fix whatever is wrong with it.

So, based on behavior #3 above, any ideas on what's wrong with the HPR? I already took it apart and replaced/lubed. I'll do it again just to be sure.

I would rather not replace the HPR as stated, since I like it like that.
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Old 05-18-2010, 02:39 PM #2
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screwing your tank too far in can be your problem. I had the same thing happened to me on my ion, I tried everything from rebuilding rebuilding the reg to replacing hoses and the board. Or it could be that you reg needs a rebuild/relube.
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Old 05-18-2010, 03:08 PM #3
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The valve pins on some tank regs can be pressed TOO far in by the asa and won't release air. That's the problem with the asa, just don't screw the knob in all the way. * let me clarify, it is NOT cause the tank is screwed in too far. It's the asa on/off knob pressing in too far. The solution is to back out the ASA knob, not unscrew the tank a little. Tank safety first!*

The other part is definitely the reg. Take it apart and do some maintenance. Clean everything. It is a multi-component reg, so make sure you're cleaning ALL the stages of the reg(not just the main HPR spring) and that it is reassembled properly.
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Old 05-18-2010, 07:20 PM #4
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Found the problem. VERY thick o-ring. The one that's on the marker is about half the thickness required. This must be what's causing the problem.

The o-ring in question is on the piston in the HPR. The gap is twice as wide as the o-ring I have on there now.

Where am I going to get one?

Last edited by Nemo128 : 05-18-2010 at 07:25 PM.
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Old 05-18-2010, 07:52 PM #5
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look up the NME manual and then hunt down that oring at home depot.
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Old 05-18-2010, 08:29 PM #6
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I have the manual, and it's the only o-ring it doesn't specify a size for.

New development, I blew the needle in the gauge. It rocketed past 180PSI when I was trying something and it literally broke off the spindle.

Not sure what to do now.
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Old 05-18-2010, 10:06 PM #7
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You can buy o-rings kits at the following locations:

captainoring.com
oringmonkey.com
markerkits.com

markerkits has an NME specific o-ring kit

The o-ring for the HPR pistion is a 114 o-ring. It is not thick enough to fill the o-ring channel on the HPR pistion. The thickness of the o-ring is about 3/4 of the o-ring channel on the HPR piston. There will be some space for the o-ring to move around. This is normal.

You can purchase that individual o-ring in quantities of 10 at captainoring.com:

http://www.captainoring.com/store/pr...?id_product=75

You will not be able to purchase these at lowes or home depot. Just like they don't really have a selection of screws and bolts, they do not typically carry an meaningful selection of o-rings. You may be able to find them at a local hardware store such as Ace, Truevalue, or Do It Best.
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Old 05-19-2010, 09:42 AM #8
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tj, I used the 114 as you suggested. Still can't get the HPR working right. I cleaned and lubed everything, but it just won't recharge.

I also think I'm going to try grinding down the bolt on the ASA knob so it can be screwed in completely. It's obviously after opening it up that the length of the bolt is the problem. Worse case scenario if I mess up the knob, I just buy a new ASA.

The HPR still baffles me. I blew an o-ring in the LPR last night after the gauge incident. Put the CP HPR on it, still works fine, so the problem must be in the HPR only. I just can't figure it out, and I've tried everything I can think of...

What can I do about replacing the busted front block gauge?
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Old 05-19-2010, 10:34 AM #9
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Why go through the trouble of grinding down the ASA knob. Just don't screw it in all the way. After screwing my tank in, I stop turning the ASA knob as soon as I hear air transfer. I may even give it a 1/2 turn.
The knob isn't turned all the way in, but have never given me problems.

As far as the microgauge, you could get one cheap from the BST. I replaced a stock one with a cracked plastic with a DP one and worked fine. Try to get a gauge 0-160 though... much more accurate than 0-300.
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Old 05-19-2010, 11:02 AM #10
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I didn't know the gauges were standard. You're right, found quite a few online to buy. I'll check with my local store to see if they have one to quickly pick up.

The knob, eh, why not. Just so it sits all the way back.

As for the HPR, I believe I will be getting a CP and just give up on the stock one. I like the look but it's just not working and I can't figure out why.
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Old 05-19-2010, 01:32 PM #11
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Have you tried putting a preassure tester on the HPR to see what preassure it's putting out? If you don't have a tester, it's easy to make one. Just take an ASA and put a bottle guage (needs to go up to at least 1000 psi) where the macroline goes. If the it's putting out to much preassure this would tell you.

Also you could try replacing the internals. I believe all of the internals are the same as the Bob Long Torpedo regs that were on Alias and older Intimidators (not the same as the newer 360 swivel reg).

There are various versions of the Torpedo reg with different milling, but the itnernals are all the same. You can find two of the differnt milling styles on e-bay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Black-Bob-Long-r...item3cad256d6b
http://cgi.ebay.com/BL-TORPEDO-INLIN...item27b1775d09

Or you can look around the BST. Shouldn't cost more than $35 for one. Also check the BST at intimidatorowners.com.

If you think just the HPR piston is the problem, you could purchase a new Delrin piston (which I would recomend any way for this style of reg anyway) at paintballkingdom:

http://www.paintballkingdom.com/pbkd...torpiston.aspx

Or if you just want to get the very best HPR regulator out there, buy an AKA 2-Liter.
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Last edited by tjs0349 : 05-19-2010 at 01:35 PM.
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Old 05-19-2010, 05:42 PM #12
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Is there supposed to be a hole in the plate at the bottom of the reg? The one that goes between the spring and the velocity adjustment bolt.
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Old 05-19-2010, 10:09 PM #13
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No, there isn't but it shouldn't cuase any problems assuming the plate is still structuraly sound. The area where the spring and that plate are located is not air tight. Pressurized air does not move past the piston into this area.
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Old 05-19-2010, 10:17 PM #14
Nemo128
 
 
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Ok. I also notice the manual shows some yellow o-rings, but the ones I have aren't this type. Do I need to use that type? Could that be the problem?

To be specific, on the pins in both regs.

Also giving a thought to the Dye Hyper 3 reg in olive dust. If it matches well, that would make for one sick looking gun paired with the NME.

Last edited by Nemo128 : 05-19-2010 at 10:31 PM.
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Old 05-20-2010, 01:04 AM #15
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It shouldn't matter if you don't have the yellow clearish o-rings. Those will last longer and don't need to be lubricated as much. They are made of a different material. Regular o-rings will still seal however.

I would just go ahead and order and o-ring kit from markerkits.com or ebay if I were you.
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Old 05-20-2010, 09:12 AM #16
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I actually bought a 25 pack of each o-ring for both NMEs at oringcity so I'll stick with that for now.

Going to my local shop today to see if they have a Dye Hyper3. If I set it up and it works right, I'll buy it. Also going to try to find a nice ASA that matches well. The Eclipse on my black NME is quite nice. I'll let ya know how it goes.
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Old 05-23-2010, 08:38 AM #17
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Update

She's not stock any more.

Got a brand new Shocktech rail and ASA for dirt cheap in a clearance case at my local store. Also picked up a brand new Orange Pre-Alias that I'm gonna mod and install.

Right now she has my CP HPR and cycles like a demon. However, the Dye Hyper3 should be in by the end of the week. It'll probably become my main gun after all this is complete.

Since I blew the micro gauge and forgot to get a replacement, how else can I ensure my LPR is set to 60-80 range?

Also, are there any LPRs with a nice design to them that would compliment the NME somewhat? Every LPR I've seen has a basic can design and I want this thing looking as sick as it does stock. I'll just keep the stock LPR worst case scenario.
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Old 05-23-2010, 08:47 PM #18
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I think palmer odyssey LPR is the only LPR that is a direct fit. Otherwise you will have to got with timmy front block and then you can use any intimidator LPR you want.
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Old 08-01-2011, 08:50 AM #19
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im pretty sure the on/off was designed to turn the air off when screwed down all the way and back on when backed out a turn ..
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