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Old 04-14-2010, 10:46 PM #64
Alpha {MWB}
 
 
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ok, i am sorry, i have more a General question, but very important. And i NEED help, so please consider answering it even though it is a WGP tank. The tank works, reg works fine for my mags. But here is my problem. I took my cover off to put it on my other tank, and low and behold, i have a crack in it. It isn't a scratch, but a crack in the clear coating surrounding the label but above the actual fibers. It is right in the middle of the tank, so it doesn't go right to the fibers, but only right to the label. In most places you can SEE the crack, but not feel it at all (you can run your fingernail perpendicular to the run of the crack and it goes over it smooth. There is prolly only 2 inches total that your fingernail would detect the flaw that is clearly seen. My question then is, AM I OK (may sound dumb)? do i need to have this re hydro'd? can it be fixed, If so, how could i approach the manufactore about this. it still has 3 or 4 hydro years and doesn't look bad, it is just odd, as most might say. Please let me know, i can take pictures if it would help, but my description is pretty much what you would see (if the camera would even pick it up).

p.s. This tank has never taken a fall or run into anything. It has always been in a cover and not abused.
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Old 04-15-2010, 10:37 AM #65
larryatguerrillaair (Banned)
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpha {MWB} View Post
ok, i am sorry, i have more a General question, but very important. And i NEED help, so please consider answering it even though it is a WGP tank. The tank works, reg works fine for my mags. But here is my problem. I took my cover off to put it on my other tank, and low and behold, i have a crack in it. It isn't a scratch, but a crack in the clear coating surrounding the label but above the actual fibers. It is right in the middle of the tank, so it doesn't go right to the fibers, but only right to the label. In most places you can SEE the crack, but not feel it at all (you can run your fingernail perpendicular to the run of the crack and it goes over it smooth. There is prolly only 2 inches total that your fingernail would detect the flaw that is clearly seen. My question then is, AM I OK (may sound dumb)? do i need to have this re hydro'd? can it be fixed, If so, how could i approach the manufactore about this. it still has 3 or 4 hydro years and doesn't look bad, it is just odd, as most might say. Please let me know, i can take pictures if it would help, but my description is pretty much what you would see (if the camera would even pick it up).

p.s. This tank has never taken a fall or run into anything. It has always been in a cover and not abused.

Tank mfgs, had a problem with the cover coat not curing properly and subsequently cracking after a period of use. The tank actually expands when pressurized and the coating didn't, causing cracks. GA and Ninja replaced their cracked tanks under warranty and I would suspect that WGP would have a similar policy. The cracks are not a safety issue but are disturbing to see and some fields will not fill a tank because of this.
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Old 04-18-2010, 12:49 AM #66
DarkMystery
 
 
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hey i hail from the land down under (aus)

and myself and 2 freinds have g2 myth regs and are having issues with the tiny piston oring shredding....

it also appears there is damage to the actual piston itselfs in the form of scratches/gouges near the small oring groove

could you perhaps tell me why this is happening so i can prevent it and also could you tell me wat size the ring is and what other (if any) application it is used for so i can try to track some down

p.s pretty broke atm so cant afford shipping from the states otherwise i would just buy it direct from GA

Last edited by DarkMystery : 04-18-2010 at 12:54 AM.
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Old 04-18-2010, 12:29 PM #67
larryatguerrillaair (Banned)
 
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Originally Posted by DarkMystery View Post
hey i hail from the land down under (aus)

and myself and 2 freinds have g2 myth regs and are having issues with the tiny piston oring shredding....

it also appears there is damage to the actual piston itselfs in the form of scratches/gouges near the small oring groove

could you perhaps tell me why this is happening so i can prevent it and also could you tell me wat size the ring is and what other (if any) application it is used for so i can try to track some down

p.s pretty broke atm so cant afford shipping from the states otherwise i would just buy it direct from GA

Dark, The scratches you are seeing on the piston shaft are the reason the small hp o-ring is shredding. No lubrication, dirty fills, and any type of contaminant in the seat retainer,(3/16 hex plug in bottom of Myth), will scratch the piston shaft and inner retainer surfaces as it moves in the retainer. If the piston shaft/retainer faces become scratched they act as an abrasive and wears the small black hp o-ring prematurely. The remedy is to replace the retainer and piston if they show any surface scratching. pmd you.
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Old 04-18-2010, 07:35 PM #68
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hey um my gauge on my myth reg just went crazy any chance i ca get a new one for free?
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Old 04-18-2010, 09:03 PM #69
larryatguerrillaair (Banned)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bunkerboy303 View Post
hey um my gauge on my myth reg just went crazy any chance i ca get a new one for free?
Myths have a standard one year warranty on all parts.If your gauge has gone south due to defect I'm sure even"'out of warranty" replacement can happen at GA. Contact the service center and talk to them
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Old 04-20-2010, 09:36 AM #70
rosse
 
 
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I have a Guerrilla Air Ambush regulator.
Is it HP, MP or LP pressure?
Is it for a 3000 or 4500psi tank?
I cant find any facts on it...?

// Johan
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Old 04-20-2010, 12:01 PM #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rosse View Post
I have a Guerrilla Air Ambush regulator.
Is it HP, MP or LP pressure?
Is it for a 3000 or 4500psi tank?
I cant find any facts on it...?

// Johan
The pressure was indicated by either a silver mylar band having a reg background for hp or a blue background for lp. Later runs also had a Guerrilla button using the same color code. As for 3k or 4500 the early 4500 spring was orange and the 3k spring raw. Later runs used a raw spring 4500 w/a thicker spring diameter than the 3k.
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Old 04-22-2010, 10:11 AM #72
rosse
 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryatguerrillaair View Post
The pressure was indicated by either a silver mylar band having a reg background for hp or a blue background for lp. Later runs also had a Guerrilla button using the same color code. As for 3k or 4500 the early 4500 spring was orange and the 3k spring raw. Later runs used a raw spring 4500 w/a thicker spring diameter than the 3k.
I can now se that i have a HP version of this regulator.
That leads me to a new question…

Can I modify it so that it becomes an LP…?
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Old 04-22-2010, 10:43 AM #73
larryatguerrillaair (Banned)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rosse View Post
I can now se that i have a HP version of this regulator.
That leads me to a new question…

Can I modify it so that it becomes an LP…?
The Ambush used the old technology of singlular hp or lp spring conversion.
If you can locate an lp spring that is the only part you need for lp conversion.
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Old 04-22-2010, 10:50 AM #74
Alpha {MWB}
 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryatguerrillaair View Post
The Ambush used the old technology of singlular hp or lp spring conversion.
is that a bad thing?
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Old 04-22-2010, 01:10 PM #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpha {MWB} View Post
is that a bad thing?
Different from GA's current Technology of air flow/spring combination to regulate pressure. Old school opposed to something different.
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Old 04-22-2010, 01:22 PM #76
rosse
 
 
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Originally Posted by larryatguerrillaair View Post
The Ambush used the old technology of singlular hp or lp spring conversion.
If you can locate an lp spring that is the only part you need for lp conversion.
I guess i need a stronger spring... Can I use some spacers to tighten the spring...?
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Old 04-22-2010, 02:21 PM #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rosse View Post
I guess i need a stronger spring... Can I use some spacers to tighten the spring...?
Actually the lp spring is "softer" using a smaller dia. wire stock. Using shims will increase pressure not lower to lp. You need an actual lp spring.
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Old 04-22-2010, 10:52 PM #78
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g2 wobbles

my new myth g2 has a little play even though it is screwed in tight. the top is tight also so i don't know whats up
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Old 04-23-2010, 12:36 AM #79
noneedforanam88
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i'm sure this is an obvious answer, but I'll just ask anyway.
I just got my HP kit in and need to remove my reg. Do I have to remove the fill nipple, guage and burst disk prior to putting the reg in a vise?
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Old 04-23-2010, 08:37 AM #80
Hoosier Daddy
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Brand new Myth reg, first time I aired it up the PSI didn't match the fill station. Fill station said 2,000 PSI, Myth reg said 5,000 PSI. This is at the field I work at so I know the fill station is correct. While playing I run out of air with 2,500 PSI reading on reg. I completely de-gas the tank and Myth reg still reads about 2,500 PSI. I take the reg off the tank and tap it a few times and the needle finally goes to -0-.

Suggestions?

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Old 04-23-2010, 10:51 AM #81
larryatguerrillaair (Banned)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dukduk View Post
my new myth g2 has a little play even though it is screwed in tight. the top is tight also so i don't know whats up
Some G2's need a little more "torque" on the flange to tighten the collar. Try to fully tighten the flange and see if that removes the play. The collar is not a pressure sealing part of the reg and poses no possibility of leakage . If the it still poses a problem contact GA.
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Old 04-23-2010, 10:57 AM #82
larryatguerrillaair (Banned)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noneedforanam88 View Post
i'm sure this is an obvious answer, but I'll just ask anyway.
I just got my HP kit in and need to remove my reg. Do I have to remove the fill nipple, guage and burst disk prior to putting the reg in a vise?
The Myth can be situated into a vise without removing any of the hardware using the proper shims. If you feel more comfortable you can remove one or more of the parts to get more "comfortable" fit. Put it in a vise and determine where the contact points are.
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Old 04-23-2010, 11:02 AM #83
larryatguerrillaair (Banned)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoosier Daddy View Post
Brand new Myth reg, first time I aired it up the PSI didn't match the fill station. Fill station said 2,000 PSI, Myth reg said 5,000 PSI. This is at the field I work at so I know the fill station is correct. While playing I run out of air with 2,500 PSI reading on reg. I completely de-gas the tank and Myth reg still reads about 2,500 PSI. I take the reg off the tank and tap it a few times and the needle finally goes to -0-.

Suggestions?

Joe Moore
Contact GA for a guage replacement. Obviously the gauge is defective and needs replacement. The needle may be hanging up on the the face or the bourbon tube is defective .
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Old 04-24-2010, 03:32 AM #84
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I just bought a Guerilla Air 20oz CO2 on EBay from ultimate paintball and it leaks slowly (not even trying to screw it into the marker). CO2 seems to be coming out of the pin and burst disc. What can I do?
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