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Old 02-09-2010, 02:12 PM #1
waddlecaudle
 
 
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Barb broke off and all of the solutions I have seen dont work... lets get creative

If you look through my posts you will see I have had quite the time with this cocker. Hammer stuck in the body (even when I tried hammering it out) had to get a new body. The ram's threading broke off in the front block when I was trying to screw it in, had to get a new one. Now the front barb broke off of the 3way and is in there good. I tried the glue and allen wrench, no luck. Tried the screw driver, no luck. Tried drilling into it with a small bit till it caught, no luck. I am prob gonna buy a new one since they aren't that expensive, but I figured I would ask for ideas. This is a like 10year old dye cocker that I am working on that has been sitting around for about 8 of those in my buddies closet (not taken apart, NEVER cleansed) and it seems that everything is just really brittle on it (the barb broke off of it when I was simply putting a new pneumatic hose on it with the ram. *sigh*...
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Old 02-09-2010, 05:33 PM #2
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I'd say you should just give up and buy a new one (whole gun) at this point. as long as you havent really messed anything up (especially the body) you can still get a decent price for that dye cocker just because its rare. And the pnus are crappy anyways.
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Old 02-09-2010, 05:34 PM #3
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The only way a drill bit would work is if you have a left hand twist bit(opposite of a normal drill bit) and you run it in reverse. Odds are the threads don't go all the way into the 3-way bore(you'll have to back it out). Have you tried an easy out, sear carries a set of extremely small ones. I have that set and have used to remove broken barbs from 3ways before.
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Old 02-09-2010, 06:59 PM #4
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Try easyout with a little heat, most barbs were loctited in.
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Old 02-09-2010, 08:07 PM #5
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pliers.


maybe you should set the gun in a tub of penetrating oil or something lol.

im sure a soapy sink would work just as well too.
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Old 02-10-2010, 07:42 AM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
I'd say you should just give up and buy a new one (whole gun) at this point. as long as you havent really messed anything up (especially the body) you can still get a decent price for that dye cocker just because its rare. And the pnus are crappy anyways.
It is literally a new gun at this point. The only thing now remaining from the gun is the lpr (which is actually the only dye pneumatic people seem to like), the dye boomstick (decent barrel), and the dye bolt/easy release backblock which I LOVE. Other than that this gun is new... havin fun buildin it and its not like its taking huge chunks out of my wallet. I plan on piecing back the other gun (frame, body, front block, asa, basically everything except whats listed as still on the gun).

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Originally Posted by chris71383 View Post
The only way a drill bit would work is if you have a left hand twist bit(opposite of a normal drill bit) and you run it in reverse. Odds are the threads don't go all the way into the 3-way bore(you'll have to back it out). Have you tried an easy out, sear carries a set of extremely small ones. I have that set and have used to remove broken barbs from 3ways before.
This is what I used My dad has a pretty large collection of bits in his garage, pulled this one out in the right size, but it just strips the actual barb thread instead of catching it... likely cause the barb is so old. I have the set of easy outs... but they seem to do the same thing. I just think that the gun sat around so long that it started to break down lol or something.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Reddawg View Post
Try easyout with a little heat, most barbs were loctited in.
Most stock come loctitedd in... but my buddy assures me that he has changed this barb before and its not loctited... thanks though

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pliers.


maybe you should set the gun in a tub of penetrating oil or something lol.

im sure a soapy sink would work just as well too.
Can't even grab at it with pliers, it broke off literally just at the lip of the 3way. Stupid barb! Also I am a little weary of dropping my gun in oil, thanks for the idea though
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Old 02-10-2010, 07:46 AM #7
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if you have the orings out, drop that baby into a tub you PB Blaster. and while you have that tub out drop the body in that has the stuck hammer.

if not keep drilling at the barb until you get it to the point where all you need to do is pick the threads from the barb out of the threads on the 3-way.
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Old 02-22-2010, 07:07 PM #8
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careful with that bit of advice Leafy not saying its bad advice but i need to drill out a reg, rethred it, and put in an insert because some *** used green locktite and there was no way i was able to get it out without a bit.

just a guide for locktite Blue = temporary (no tools), Red = tools needed possibly heat, Green = permanent thats not coming out without extreme mesures its used on engines
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Old 02-24-2010, 10:22 AM #9
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yeah, I would take some of these suggestions with a grain of salt. I would take that housing to an expert. all of the suggestions are good, but if you have a strong loctite, its gonna take some real work to get it out. I would not try anymore drilling since you already tried backing it out. I would take the housing to a local machine shop and explain the delicate nature of the housing. I was charged $25 once to have a snapped asa extracted off of one of my loaners. Trying too much could damage the internal casing and then it would be game over for you. Consider an expert if you have exhausted the simple routines.

If you want to try one thing, put the 3 way housing in near boiling water for a minute or two, then remove it and use that extractor immediately. The boiling water will expand the aluminum housing a lot more than the thin brass or nickel barb, therefore causing a slight amount of space and you may be able to extract it with a tool.
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Old 02-24-2010, 10:28 AM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MagicDrafna View Post
careful with that bit of advice Leafy not saying its bad advice but i need to drill out a reg, rethred it, and put in an insert because some *** used green locktite and there was no way i was able to get it out without a bit.

just a guide for locktite Blue = temporary (no tools), Red = tools needed possibly heat, Green = permanent thats not coming out without extreme mesures its used on engines
blue = temporary, red requires tools and/or heat, used in engines, green is similar to blue, but thinner, so it can be applied to threads after assembly and allowed to seep in that way.

might be multiple green ones, not sure though. red is definitely what you'd use in an engine, assuming you'd want to be able to get back in to it to fix something.
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:16 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
I'd say you should just give up and buy a new one (whole gun) at this point. as long as you havent really messed anything up (especially the body) you can still get a decent price for that dye cocker just because its rare. And the pnus are crappy anyways.
While there are better parts out there, I beg to differ. Dye's Pneumatics work just fine but the 3-way has a rather short adjustment window. Looks better than any 3-way ever made but not the easiest to adjust. I still have my '03 Dye Reflex which is still 100% Stock (though this one shipped with the Hyper 2 instead of the Original Hyper Reg - which I LOVED) and I have never had any issues with it. The only 2 Manufacturers who's Cocker Parts are clearly superior (and only by a slim margin) are WGP & Belsales. Shocktech made some nice parts too but they were rather pricey and I likes Hybrid's Cocker parts too. Worked very well for me on both of the Hybrids I owned.

In the world of Cockers, one name reigns supreme above and beyond all... Belsales.
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:20 PM #12
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the belsales has a much smaller adjustment window than the dye 3-way. I do like its 3 oring design better than the belsales 2 oring. any you can always get the knock off version of that 3 way from i&i sports for like 3 bucks, but it needs new orings when you get it because the ones they come with are like rocks.
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Old 03-05-2010, 06:03 AM #13
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All companies had good and bad cocker parts, even Belsales. Some rams and 3-ways just work better than others. That's why it pays to have a ram you can take apart easily and tweak. 3-ways are a little different, but I have to agree that DYE's has been my first choice for years.

As for the barb, post a quality picture of it for us to see in it's current state.
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